|
SpidyJ
|
 |
« on: February 15, 2015, 12:44:20 PM » |
|
Are you supposed to be able to remove the wheel w/o at least loosening the final drive?
I sure couldn't.
Front wheel next then off to powder coating and then some new tires.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1999 Fast Black Interstate
Peace,
johnnywebb
|
|
|
hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16783
upstate
South Carolina
|
|
« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2015, 12:54:22 PM » |
|
Are you supposed to be able to remove the wheel w/o at least loosening the final drive?
I sure couldn't.
Did you get it off at all? Describe the issue more? You should be able to remove the wheel without loosening the final drive. -Mike |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Chrisj CMA
|
|
« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2015, 02:52:57 PM » |
|
Are you supposed to be able to remove the wheel w/o at least loosening the final drive?
I sure couldn't.
Front wheel next then off to powder coating and then some new tires.
OK, you have to remove the brake caliper holding pin so after removing the axle from the rear wheel and final drive you can rotate the brake caliper and plate off and away from the wheel, once that and the spacer are out of the way the wheel should move toward the left and off the final drive. Now, if the flange sticks inside the final drive it could prevent total separation of the wheel. That's when you need to push it back together and pry the flange away so it moves with the wheel. Hope that all helps |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
SpidyJ
|
|
« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2015, 06:00:44 PM » |
|
Are you supposed to be able to remove the wheel w/o at least loosening the final drive?
I sure couldn't.
Front wheel next then off to powder coating and then some new tires.
OK, you have to remove the brake caliper holding pin so after removing the axle from the rear wheel and final drive you can rotate the brake caliper and plate off and away from the wheel, once that and the spacer are out of the way the wheel should move toward the left and off the final drive. Now, if the flange sticks inside the final drive it could prevent total separation of the wheel. That's when you need to push it back together and pry the flange away so it moves with the wheel. Hope that all helps Oh it moved off the final drive OK, just not far enough to the left. The drive pins on the final drive that go in the dampers wouldn't all clear the flange. Maybe the bike wasn't high enough? |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1999 Fast Black Interstate
Peace,
johnnywebb
|
|
|
hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16783
upstate
South Carolina
|
|
« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2015, 06:24:04 PM » |
|
Now, if the flange sticks inside the final drive it could prevent total separation of the wheel. That's when you need to push it back together and pry the flange away so it moves with the wheel.
Oh it moved off the final drive OK, just not far enough to the left. The drive pins on the final drive that go in the dampers wouldn't all clear the flange. Maybe the bike wasn't high enough?
The pins just don't come all the way out on the first try sometimes... what happened to you
happens to a lot of us. Do as said above, and then try to make the flange and the wheel
come out together, then there'll be room to get the wheel out. There a place to pry under
the final drive, a slot on the black ring where you can get a screwdriver or something up
in there to encourage the flange to come with the wheel.
There's a lot of ways to deal with the details of getting the wheel off, some people jack
the bike way up, I take the rear fender section off and barely jack it at all.
Gordonv posted a how-to... if you've never removed the wheel before, the watching
the video might be helpful in seeing someone cover all the details... its pretty easy
to get the drive shaft back into the universal joint some ways, and frustrating other ways,
its easy to get the axle back through everything including the caliper bracket some
ways, frustrating other ways...
-Mike
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
|
« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2015, 10:17:00 AM » |
|
The flange w/pins stays with the wheel when removing the wheel.
A little investigation will reveal all the pertinent information.
And there is scads of that information.
***
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
|
SpidyJ
|
|
« Reply #7 on: February 16, 2015, 11:14:03 AM » |
|
Duh,
Thanks fellas..only removed the rear wheel once before and didn't remember that the gear/ drive pin flange came off with the wheel.
Woulda saved myself some aggravation if I had remembered that. The grease was holding it on.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1999 Fast Black Interstate
Peace,
johnnywebb
|
|
|
|
da prez
|
|
« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2015, 02:43:11 PM » |
|
spidey , so not forrget the rear end service and 3 o-rings. Also pull the drive shaft and check drain holes and lube. (also ,splines )
da prez
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
SpidyJ
|
|
« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2015, 05:35:04 PM » |
|
spidey , so not forrget the rear end service and 3 o-rings. Also pull the drive shaft and check drain holes and lube. (also ,splines )
da prez
Did it about 5k ago when the left bearing failed, but I guess I'll do it all over again since it's apart. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1999 Fast Black Interstate
Peace,
johnnywebb
|
|
|
|
