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Author Topic: Pulled the front forks for new seals....  (Read 822 times)
sawdustar
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Posts: 145


Conway, AR


« on: February 24, 2015, 08:22:09 AM »

When I pulled the forks, I found that they are "different". For sure not what I'm used to. I mean, I've already done a VT1100 front fork set, a VTX1300 front fork set, and now the Valk. This bike hasn't been touched for service or repairs since it was manufactured. I've spent a LOT of time and money getting this bike back in a shape that I'd be happy with....but these front USD forks and them being different one side from the other really has be bum-fuzzled.....  Shocked
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Thank You,
Dennis
Jess from VA
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Posts: 30468


No VA


« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2015, 08:33:01 AM »

Yes they are different, and they take different volumes of fork oil on rebuild as well.
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Momz
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Posts: 5702


ABATE, AMA, & MRF rep.


« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2015, 08:37:30 AM »

Many inverted forks are like that.
One side does the majority of the rebound damping and the other does the majority of the compression damping.

Remember to always replace the fork bushings as well as the seals.

If you have an I/S replace your fork springs with "Progressive" springs and if you have a Standard or Tourer at least have your springs checked for correct length. Replacing the springs with "Progressive's" is not a bad idea.

Also use the recommended weight of fork oil. I have had great luck over many years using "Belray" fork oil and I always will.
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ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 

97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes
sawdustar
Member
*****
Posts: 145


Conway, AR


« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2015, 08:39:04 AM »

Yes they are different, and they take different volumes of fork oil on rebuild as well.

OK...I'm going to go look up the fluid requirements for each side. I bought some Amsoil #10 suspension fluid to put in it. I also just ordered new bushing set for the forks as the ones I pulled out show signs of wear.
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Thank You,
Dennis
Jess from VA
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Posts: 30468


No VA


« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2015, 08:56:14 AM »

I have a set on one bike that probably need a complete rebuild. I decided I lack the requisite skills/tools to do the job reliably.  I have a dealer tech guy that will do them for me for $100, when I take them off and bring them to him.  I have the bag of parts for the rebuild.  I just have not got round tuit.
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Andy Cote
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Posts: 218


Windham, Maine


« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2015, 04:26:21 PM »

I did mine last year.  For just the seals and bushings, there is no reason to take the springs out.  If you decide to pull the springs, there is special tool required.  It was a much easier job than I expected.  I'll help if you buy me a plane ticket out of snowmegeddon Northeast!  Seriously, the tech pages here and on Youtube, along with a manual and you can pop in the seals and bushings in half a day or less.
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2015 Goldwing, basic black

Previously: 2000 Valkyrie Interstate, 1997 Valkyrie Standard, 1988 GL1500, GL1200 Standard, GL1200 Interstate and many other Hondas
da prez
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Posts: 4361

. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2015, 04:16:38 PM »

  We did O2S's interstate in a couple of hours.  That was not even having a beer. That part  came later. If I remember , there are two ways to do the fluid. Measure in the amount that the book calls for ,and I have it somewhere to do it by measurement. That is  , to measure down to the fluid with a ruler.  This is also a good way to check fluid level if your fork seals leaked a little and a sealmate was used. You can top of the fluid. Follow the written procedure. It is easy , and the money you save , you can purchase an adult beverage for me.

                                           da prez
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