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Author Topic: Fuel rail seeping  (Read 1511 times)
BamaDrifter64
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Posts: 1020


Athens, Alabama


« on: March 04, 2015, 09:23:38 PM »

I am having some work done at the shop on my 2000 IS.  Carbs needed rebuilding so to save the $1500 the shop quoted me, I bought a used set off ebay and cleaned/rebuilt.  Shop put them on today and called to tell me the fuel rails were seeping gas and needed rebuilding.  My question is whether there's a possibility that the orings in the fuel rail dried out and shrunk, thereby causing the seeping and once rehydrated, will expand and stop the seepage.  If that's not a possibility, I guess I will be rebuilding the fuel rails shortly.   Angry
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Colin
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My old job

Orba, Spain


WWW
« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2015, 10:34:09 PM »

Possibly.

However given they may have cracked when they dried out imho it is better to replace them. It isn't that hard of a job, I did mine about 18 months ago.
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Colin
Retired and living in Spain and riding my bike most weeks due to the great weather here.
VRCC Espana
My Bumble Bee re-build
The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2015, 04:21:54 AM »

Mine leaked after letting bike sit for a year. After a day of having fuel back in them they quit leaking. Before tearing them out I would see if they quit leaking.
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salty1
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Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2015, 04:30:20 AM »

Mine leaked after letting bike sit for a year. After a day of having fuel back in them they quit leaking. Before tearing them out I would see if they quit leaking.

Absolutely   cooldude  Give "em" 24 hours and they will probably swell enough to where the leak will stop. I  have the same issue as my bike will sit for 6 months at a time . Someday I'll change out those O-rings but until then, I will be patient and attentive.  Smiley
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

signart
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Posts: 2095


Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #4 on: March 05, 2015, 06:59:41 AM »

Any leak is too much, anytime.
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2015, 09:57:01 AM »

The largest issues regarding the replacement of the seals were

the difficulty of getting the carburetors apart. Next was the

reassembly of the carburetors and all the related linkage and

springs. Taking plenty of pictures of all the connections is

very necessary to insure a satisfactory job. Naturally a bench

synchronization would be required.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
BamaDrifter64
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Posts: 1020


Athens, Alabama


« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2015, 11:08:27 AM »

Is there a good guide out there to go by?  I know there are some good youtube videos on rebuilding the carbs... I just need the fuel rails how-to.  Thanks!
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #7 on: March 05, 2015, 02:30:39 PM »

You can download the service manual at the website below if you don't have it.

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

BamaDrifter64
Member
*****
Posts: 1020


Athens, Alabama


« Reply #8 on: March 05, 2015, 02:54:56 PM »

You can download the service manual at the website below if you don't have it.

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html


Thanks, have the service manual.  Didn't know if there was any video, etc. online.
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Brian
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Posts: 996


Monroe, NC


« Reply #9 on: March 05, 2015, 07:04:57 PM »

This comment may start a fire storm of responses, but when mine started to leak I ran a few tanks of gas using marvel mystery oil mixed and the leaks stopped till I had the parts and the time to replace the O-rings.
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signart
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Posts: 2095


Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2015, 06:55:13 AM »

You can do this, just don't take both sides apart at the same time. Disassemble only what you have to. If I remember, one spring a little tricky, so use the side left assembled for reference and once you get it you're home free. Get with Red Eye for parts and follow carefully instructions for replacement parts.
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BamaDrifter64
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Posts: 1020


Athens, Alabama


« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2015, 08:29:04 AM »

Thanks.  I already have all the parts to rebuild the fuel rails bc I bought the entire kit from redeye when I rebuilt the carbs.  I just didn't want to rebuild the fuel rails unless I just had to bc I heard they were pretty difficult to do.  I'm fairly mechanically blessed for someone who uses his mind to make a living, so we'll see how hard it is.  The carbs were easy to do.
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signart
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Posts: 2095


Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2015, 09:05:59 AM »

You can do it. Just take your time and disassemble and reassemble one side as you go. Once you get the tricky spring figured out, you have it wooped. Your bike will run better, pressure in the rails need to be equal and you won't have to worry about it for at least 15 yrs. or so.
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Gunner
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Posts: 48

NW Suburbs Mpls, Minnesota


« Reply #13 on: March 06, 2015, 04:16:48 PM »

The worst part of the fuel rail o-ring job is getting those carbs apart and then getting the steel dowels out of the carbs.  I used Kroil (over several days), a small butane torch, and Redeye's carb separation tool to get them apart.  The stuck dowels I got out by crushing the exposed end, using more Kroil and heat, and then pounding those dowels out with the long bolt that holds the carbs together.  I think the Kroil made a huge difference in getting everything apart. 

Just be patient and take your time.  Redeye has a much better replacement dowel than what Honda has available.  I guess I never understood why Honda would put a stainless steel dowel in an aluminum housing.  You may also find the aluminum fuel rail tubes corroded.  I cleaned mine up but when I rebuild my second set of carbs, I am going to order those tubes from Honda.  It took quite a while to clean them up and I was a little nervous about how the new o-ring would seal after getting the corrosion off those tubes.

Good Luck!

Gunner
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