Different Petcock problem

[MP]

I had my petcock fail at the VOAI Reunion.  I had rebuilt it this last winter.  Ran great for about 5,000 miles this year.
I filled at a different gas station Wed. evening.  Rode it 2 miles to the motel.  Made it 1/2 mile in the morning, and it died.

Thought it might be bad gas.  Drained it all out.  Took the tank off and emptied all the way.  Flow was very good out the tank opening, so filter screen was not plugged.  Sucked a vacuum on the petcock, and could blow air thru the standpipe.  Stop vacuum, and could no longer blow thru pipe, so petcock was OK.

Put it all back together, and made it 1 mile before it quit again!

Took vacuum and fuel line off while on bike, sucked a vacuum, and no fuel coming out the petcock!  Removed tank again, sucked on vac line, and blew in the standpipe, and it was open.  Grizhead had the great idea of sucking on the fuel port while drawing a vacuum, and could NOT suck.

If you blew in the standpipe, it was open, but by sucking on the fuel outlet, it was not opening up.

Took it apart, to put in a new cover set.  The little valve flap and the metal insert seemed to be out of position, and we could find NO tear in the diaphram.  Put it all back together, and it works fine.  Have put over 2,000 miles on it since with no problems.

We believe that somehow, after 5,000 miles, the valve flap and metal insert got out of position, and would NOT open up.  Also, that when testing the petcock, be sure to suck on the fuel outlet to see if open, not blow in the standpipe.

Thanks to Bill and Mary from Fl for coming with trailer TWICE to pick me up.  Great to have such good friends!

MP

[DFragn]

That's odd!

I had a different problem with mine after replacement.
It was allowing flow without vacuum. Bonehead me put together in backwards.

[Grandpot]

MP:

I hate it when problems get that crazy.  Sounds more like Evil Spirits.

[lee]

I think someone else had a similar problem a few Months ago.  Turned out that the TIT
on the vacuum diaphragm that attaches it to the metal insert came out.  Valve appeared
to be working, but was not pulling metal insert and valve flap back when vacuum was applied.
His problem showed up when tank level was low.  Not enough head pressure to push flap
back all the way.  Could this have happened to yours, and the metal insert got off center
and stuck?

[MP]

It was something like that.  was not opening the valve anyway.
MP

[woefman]

That's odd!

I had a different problem with mine after replacement.
It was allowing flow without vacuum. Bonehead me put together in backwards.

Hey Could you elaborate on how you put it together backwards ?  meaning diaphram in wrong or Spring  ?

Reason I ask  this could be a awesome Roadside Alternative to towing the bike if your Factory Petcock
Dumps on you on a ride.

[KCvalk]

i've only been on here a year and a few weeks but this seems to be the single biggest problem with the Valkyrie.  Almost every week there is a thread about the factory petcock failing in some way not once, but two and three times.  Rebuild after rebuild and there is still this problem with the factory model on (not all) but many bikes.

I have not once read about the pingle failing or the one i used the Drag Specialties model.  Judging by the pain and sorrow this little contraption has caused countless Valk owners this should really be the first modification on the bike.  It can be done with as little as a pair of pliers and a socket set.

pingle= $95
rebuild kit=$22
drag specalities= $29

all better choices than getting stuck on the road
 

[woefman]

i've only been on here a year and a few weeks but this seems to be the single biggest problem with the Valkyrie.  Almost every week there is a thread about the factory petcock failing in some way not once, but two and three times.  Rebuild after rebuild and there is still this problem with the factory model on (not all) but many bikes.

I have not once read about the pingle failing or the one i used the Drag Specialties model.  Judging by the pain and sorrow this little contraption has caused countless Valk owners this should really be the first modification on the bike.  It can be done with as little as a pair of pliers and a socket set.

pingle= $95
rebuild kit=$22
drag specalities= $29

all better choices than getting stuck on the road
 

I can't argue with that ...however I bet most rebuild cause we enjoy the Factory Look

[98valk]

use K&L rebuild kit cheaper than OEM
install a snubber in vacuum line $12
no more problems.

[FireValk]

CA ExchangeCoatings;
Where can I find the K&L rebuild kit?

[hubcapsc]

I can't argue with that ...however I bet most rebuild cause we enjoy the Factory Look

I like OEM because I never have to turn off the gas. The petcock might fail. I would forget to
turn off a pingel... those are the odds I'm working with 

I fought a bunch of petcock battles with my 8N ford, ended up putting a brass ball valve on there with
a big yellow handle. I don't forget to turn that off...

-Mike

[fstsix]

I took that stock valve and Gutted it Put Epoxy on that little hole in the bottom 5 years ago no more Vacuum line and shuts off solid. Didn"t want to buy Pingle i like the look of the stock Chrome On-Off switch Never had problem. 

[98valk]

CA ExchangeCoatings;
Where can I find the K&L rebuild kit?

see my post.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,2541.msg17627.html#msg17627