First Spring Ridus Interruptus

[SpidyJ]

So I get everything back together with new tires, rear service, brakes etc and first thing that happens asfter I turn the petcock on is I smell gas........then I see gas.
It's dripping from up above the carbs somewhere......offf comes the tank.
Hope it's something simple.

 

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

Have you had it off recently? Didn't list any service you did that should affect that. Curious

[Brewer]

Look for the leak in the fuel lines then the fuel rails. A small inspection mirror and fuel safe light will help.

[BobB]

Had the same thing happen to me this spring.  Someone here mentioned that fuel seals dry out.  The issue corrected itself.

[SpidyJ]

Have you had it off recently? Didn't list any service you did that should affect that. Curious

I did replace the intake "O" rings too but didn't take the tank off or touch anything else.

[SpidyJ]

Had the same thing happen to me this spring.  Someone here mentioned that fuel seals dry out.  The issue corrected itself.

Where are the fuel seals?  Part of the carburetors?

[SpidyJ]

Look for the leak in the fuel lines then the fuel rails. A small inspection mirror and fuel safe light will help.

It's a pretty good leak so this is the first place I'll look, main line, branches then rails.

It's dripping from all three carbs on the left side so I suspect the rail or branch line feeding that side.

[BobB]

Had the same thing happen to me this spring.  Someone here mentioned that fuel seals dry out.  The issue corrected itself.

Where are the fuel seals?  Part of the carburetors?

There are seals on the fuel rails that transfer fuel to all three carbs on each side.  My carbs were leaking on both sides.

[SpidyJ]

Had the same thing happen to me this spring.  Someone here mentioned that fuel seals dry out.  The issue corrected itself.

Where are the fuel seals?  Part of the carburetors?

There are seals on the fuel rails that transfer fuel to all three carbs on each side.  My carbs were leaking on both sides.

I can't find these seals on the OEM parts list.  Don't see a part called a fuel rail either?!

[salty1]

Fuel rail O-rings have dried out some. Now that you bathed them in gas, they will probably swell enough that leaks will stop.
Check to see if there are leaks in 24 hrs.

[SpidyJ]

Fuel rail O-rings have dried out some. Now that you bathed them in gas, they will probably swell enough that leaks will stop.
Check to see if there are leaks in 24 hrs.

Man I hope you're right....it looks like the carbs have to be removed and seperated to replace them.
 

[Flint]

Spidyj ,

Part #4 16039-MZ0-670  are the O rings under, carb assembly

Part #1  16024-MZ1-790 is the joint set, fuel, under carb assembly

Part  #2 16024-MZ0-000 joint set, fuel, under carb tubing

If it ends up that its the seals you will need 16 of them, 8 fuel, 8 vent there all the same part #

Good luck. Flint

[Brewer]

fuel rail kit with 'better' o rings: http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/6738361/carb-fuel-rail-leak-kit

[SpidyJ]

Thanks guys.  We'll see if it's still leaking tonight.

[SpidyJ]

Thanks fellas..........it stopped leaking.....not a drop.
Glad I posted or I would have torn into it immediately.
Y'all saved me alot of grief!!!

 

[salty1]

Glad to here SpidyJ. You know someday those fuel rail O-rings need to changed. At least that's what I keep telling myself. 

[SpidyJ]

The fuel rail is leaking again.  Not when hot and riding.......only when cold in the garage overnight.

It may be time for replacement and maybe desmog at the same time......unless you guys know of something like a gas treatment that will swell the shut?!?

 

[Bighead]

Did you turn the Petcock off after it stopped leaking? Then turn it on and it leaks again? If so turn it back on and leave it on.

[SpidyJ]

Yes, I turned the petcock off.
Turn it back on....what will that do?  I have a Danmarc too.

[Pappy!]

swell up the O rings that are leaking.

[salty1]

SpidyJ  stuff paper toweling under the carbs and in the carb valley.  Open the petcock and start the bike and watch if you can see where gas is coming from. If the flow is hard, shut the bike down, if not, let it run a min or so. Check it again,  after 24 hrs and after removing the toweling,  by  starting it. If it's still leaking, you have a carb repair in your future. 

[Bighead]

Yes, I turned the petcock off.
Turn it back on....what will that do?  I have a Danmarc too.

Well if you turn it off and run the bowls dry the seal also dry,so when turned back on they will leak again. Also I would like to ask why would you turn the petcock off if you have a Dan Marc? Hell I have never turned mine off since 1997 (and no I don't have a Dan Marc or pingle) except when I removed the tank it stays in the on postition unless I need to switch to reserve.

[SpidyJ]

Yes, I turned the petcock off.
Turn it back on....what will that do?  I have a Danmarc too.

Well if you turn it off and run the bowls dry the seal also dry,so when turned back on they will leak again. Also I would like to ask why would you turn the petcock off if you have a Dan Marc? Hell I have never turned mine off since 1997 (and no I don't have a Dan Marc or pingle) except when I removed the tank it stays in the on postition unless I need to switch to reserve.

Yeah.....I guess I'm paranoid about HydroLok.  Just some extra inn shurance.
Once you've had it, you will avoid it at all costs.
It didn't leak last night.........Yahoo.......(I think).

Yer bike sure is yeller.............I like it!

[Bighead]

Thanks.
I always just bump the starter button when starting if it turns then hit the starter.

[rugguy]

Replace the carb "o"'s. Why wait for them to leak all the time...which they will eventually do. If you are handy with a wrench and are willing to take your time you can do it in a day. Redeye's kits are Vitron and have everything you need to do the job right. There is a great video series online too that you can watch first. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDLTpQCTBsc Believe me the hardest things will be the choke return springs reattachment (if you don't pay attention) and re-installing the @#!%&# airbox (you will want a friend's help to do that). And those require patience more than technical know-how. Change out the intake runner "o"s while you are at it...another simple job and should be done at the same time. Don't ask me how I know....

[Ricky-D]

It's not so simple as that!!!

Read about the problems related to just getting the carburetors apart.

***

[rugguy]

Never said it was easy brother...I said he could do it (Changing the "o"s in the intake runners is simple). I've done my carbs twice and don't possess any special talent or skill. Basic tools, a Clymer manual, videos and this forum got me through it both times (and a little beer too). But it's a darn-sight better that waiting until you are away from home on a ride and can't stop the leak(s) then. Those "o" rings are going bad and eventually their age and the pressure in the line will cause them to leak with the engine running. Flammable liquids+hot engine+7 gallons of fuel+between my legs = not going to happen. Plus, the stress kills the fun. Once you "think" they're leaking you'll start to smell gas all day whether they are leaking or not.....just my two cents worth....

[SpidyJ]

I've had the air box off twice and replaced the intake runners  this winter. I am not afraid to tackle this............I juss wanna ride .......NOW!
I am a "research the job endlessly then tackle it"  kinda guy so I know I can do it.
So much work for a few "O" rings.

Do I hafta sync the carbs after reassembly?

[rugguy]

I'm sure you should but I never have done a full sync. I did a down-and-dirty manual sync after carb overhaul and my '00 runs like a scalded dog and my "butt-dyno" says it's all good.

P.S....next time...no need to take out the airbox just to replace intake runner "o"s......loosen all six clamps first, then there wlil be enough "wiggle" room from the airbox to get runners out and back in without scratching the machined faces. Learned that here too.....