Changing rear tire. other parts to order?

[mike72903]

Planning my first rear tire change (Dunlop E3). While doing so I will do the rest of the rear end maintainance (also my first time) and hope I'm not getting in over my head.  For me it doesn't take real deep water.  Are there recommended parts to have on hand for replacement while the rear is disassembled? Bike is  98 Tourer with 60k
Thanks

[old2soon]

The 3 O-rings and some moly or water proof grease. Shop talk here on the board has the procedure and tools needed. Look at your brake pads while you are there. While it's up on the lift look at the front pads also. Again-THAT procedure covered in shop talk. a Honda or a Clymer manual comes in handy also. It's NOT that intimidating a job. Reassembly procedure is EXTREMELY important to prevent premature wear. Good luck there and welcome. RIDE SAFE.

[Jess from VA]

Very nice instructional on shop talk.  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

Orings (best deal):  http://www.carolinabikeandtrike.com/ORings.htm

You need a big socket for the axle nut.  

Good time to change the pumpkin dope. (synthetic 75-90 / 80-90)

If original, look at your dampers. DAMPER SET, WHEEL 06410-MAH-A60

If you're going to look at your Ujoint, you may want a new (dreaded) boot.  BOOT, JOINT
52104-MZ0-A40 (replaces 52104-MZ0-000)

Time for a 90* metal valve stem (unless you already did it).

[Brian]

Look at your shock bushings too. These can be easily changed out using bushings that fit a VTX part #52489 - HNO - 671

[RonW]

What kind solvent is safe to use to clean the splines? Especially, on the 5-star driven splines being the rubber o-rings will be exposed to the solvent and won't the residue specifically the chemical content in a wrong solvent contaminate the moly.

[Hook#3287]

Chris's write up on rear tire removal and damper replacement is excellent, but his shop is way to clean to my liking

Actually, I secretly wish I could keep my shop like that, but that ain't happening.

Lifting the rear tire off and on can be difficult.  I use the two lift procedure.  Lifting the bike on my bike lift high enough, to use a car jack under the rear tire.  Getting to old to sit on the ground and lift a tire into place.

Another problem that seems to happen is the flange set sometimes sticks to the wheel making it impossible to remove it.  If that happens, you can use a large screwdriver under the pumpkin to pry it back into place.  There's a slot in the bottom of the pumpkin to use for this.

Good luck.

[The emperor has no clothes]

What kind solvent is safe to use to clean the splines? Especially, on the 5-star driven splines being the rubber o-rings will be exposed to the solvent and won't the residue specifically the chemical content in a solvent contaminate the moly.

Remove old o-rings, clean clean hub, dry, add new o-rings.

[Hook#3287]

What kind solvent is safe to use to clean the splines? Especially, on the 5-star driven splines being the rubber o-rings will be exposed to the solvent and won't the residue specifically the chemical content in a solvent contaminate the moly.

I've used diesel fuel and a brass brush.

[RonW]

Meathead, removing the old o-rings would never have occurred to me.  I have new o-rings but I was thinkin of saving them for sentimental reasons I guess. Might replace them in the same motion.

Hook, never tried diesel yet.

Another problem that seems to happen is the flange set sometimes sticks to the wheel making it impossible to remove it.  If that happens, you can use a large screwdriver under the pumpkin to pry it back into place.  There's a slot in the bottom of the pumpkin to use for this.

There was a precaution or sumpthin to avoid inadvertently pushing down the large oil seal below its recess using the screwdriver method.

[sandy]

At 60K I'd replace the thrust washer. It needs to be greased with the same grease as the wheel splines. Most folks use Bel Ray waterproof grease.

[Chrisj CMA]

Chris's write up on rear tire removal and damper replacement is excellent, but his shop is way to clean to my liking

Actually, I secretly wish I could keep my shop like that, but that ain't happening.

Thanks for the compliments Hook.  Actually that's not my shop.  Its my Family room.  I tried making a spot in the shop for the Valkyrie, it just got too much sawdust on it even covered.  So its a permanent family member and resides next to the bookshelf.  Makes cleaning the bike and cooking dinner at the same time much easier 

[The emperor has no clothes]

Meathead, removing the old o-rings would never have occurred to me.  I have new o-rings but I was thinkin of saving them for sentimental reasons I guess. Might replace them in the same motion.

Hook, never tried diesel yet.

Another problem that seems to happen is the flange set sometimes sticks to the wheel making it impossible to remove it.  If that happens, you can use a large screwdriver under the pumpkin to pry it back into place.  There's a slot in the bottom of the pumpkin to use for this.

There was a precaution or sumpthin to avoid inadvertently pushing down the large oil seal below its recess using the screwdriver method.

Sorry , wasn't trying to be a smartass.  I think what Hook was talking about was when removing the wheel from the bike the hub sometimes separates from the wheel making it unable to get the wheel off. By using the screwdriver to push the hub back on the wheel you are able to get it off. It doesn't really matter if that messes up the oring because you'll be replacing it anyway.

[Jess from VA]

You can use about any solvent I can think of.  I've used gasoline and a big parts brush (no smoking) (nitrile gloves).  I often finish off cleaning nasty gunked parts with brake cleaner (cover eyes) (it does a lousy job of cleaning heavy grease at the beginning).  All high flash stuff evaporates away pretty well.  

Reminds me of the WWII stories of troops being told to clean their new rifles of cosmoline with hot water and rags.  That took forever, and didn't work.  The old sergeants took off out of sight and used gasoline or diesel (which was prohibited) but it worked in no time.

In an old tupperware dish pan or your plastic oil change catch pan.


These save your hands on all kinds of regular work.

[Hook#3287]

Makes cleaning the bike and cooking dinner at the same time much easier 

That's funny   Ultimate dual tasking

I think what Hook was talking about was when removing the wheel from the bike the hub sometimes separates from the wheel making it unable to get the wheel off.

Yup, your right, had it backwards.   Been a while since a had a rear wheel off, at least 8 months, so no way I'd remember with out looking and I didn't.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Makes cleaning the bike and cooking dinner at the same time much easier 

That's funny   Ultimate dual tasking

I think what Hook was talking about was when removing the wheel from the bike the hub sometimes separates from the wheel making it unable to get the wheel off.

Yup, your right, had it backwards.   Been a while since a had a rear wheel off, at least 8 months, so no way I'd remember with out looking and I didn't.

You guys finally get all that snow melted ?

[mike72903]

Okay, so far I have in my Honda Line Direct cart front and rear brake pads, thrust washer, damper set and shock bushings.  Any advantage to ordering the shock bushings for a VTX over the ones listed for the Valk?  Ordered the o-ring set from the recommended site. Is Belray waterproof grease something I can find locally or need to order?  Is it used through the rear assembly as well or do I need to get another lubricant for other areas?  Thanks its all very helpful.

[Hook#3287]

You guys finally get all that snow melted ?

Nope!  Still a bunch on the ground and big piles everywhere.  Roads are clear and it's 62 degrees, I'm going for a ride.

Okay, so far I have in my Honda Line Direct cart front and rear brake pads, thrust washer, damper set and shock bushings.  Any advantage to ordering the shock bushings for a VTX over the ones listed for the Valk?  Ordered the o-ring set from the recommended site. Is Belray waterproof grease something I can find locally or need to order?  Is it used through the rear assembly as well or do I need to get another lubricant for other areas?  Thanks its all very helpful.

You don't NEED a thrust washer unless yours is missing or damaged.  I'm still using using the originals on all my bikes. Bushings from the VTX are supposed to be better, but I don't know why, I'm still using Gary's(?).  I use the Honda brand suggested grease.

Do you have a manual?  Get one or down load it here

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

[The emperor has no clothes]

Okay, so far I have in my Honda Line Direct cart front and rear brake pads, thrust washer, damper set and shock bushings.  Any advantage to ordering the shock bushings for a VTX over the ones listed for the Valk?  Ordered the o-ring set from the recommended site. Is Belray waterproof grease something I can find locally or need to order?  Is it used through the rear assembly as well or do I need to get another lubricant for other areas?  Thanks its all very helpful.

I would agree with everything Bill(Hook) said. I would also add that I have both the VTX bushings and the X6customs bushings and they are both superior to the Valk bushings. The VTX are cheaper than the X6. I use Honda Moly60 also. I've used regular moly grease 3% and had no wear with either. I think the most important part is correct reinstall procedures. I've got 60k on 1 thrust washer and 20k on another with no issues. Grumpy replaced one for me when mine had chip off of it.

[RonW]

Sorry , wasn't trying to be a smartass.

On the contrary .... what I meant by, "I would never think of removing the o-rings (while cleaning the splines with solvent)" I meant literally, as in, a million years. Now, I do take my clothes off when taking a bath to keep them from getting wet, so don't quite know why the idea of temporarily removing the o-rings was a quantum leap.

Probably use gasoline as Jess suggested and follow up as he said by spraying things down with brake cleaner. That should get rid of any residue that might contaminate the moly.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Sorry , wasn't trying to be a smartass.

On the contrary .... what I meant by, "I would never think of removing the o-rings (while cleaning the splines with solvent)" I meant literally, as in, a million years. Now, I do take my clothes off when taking a bath to keep them from getting wet, so don't quite know why the idea of temporarily removing the o-rings was a quantum leap.

Probably use gasoline as Jess suggested and follow up as he said by spraying things down with brake cleaner. That should get rid of any residue that might contaminate the moly.

The best setup I've seen was Grumpy's. He has a fairly large parts cleaning station. Just put the wheel , pumpkin, hub in there and the were looking new in no time. I don't have anything close to that but it got me thinking that a cleaner under pressure would work better than what I had been doing with q-tips, toothbrush and gas. So I've been using the cheap Walmart carb cleaner spray cans to good effect. I haven't worried about residue of either, just got them dried up good.

[Steve K (IA)]

What kind solvent is safe to use to clean the splines? Especially, on the 5-star driven splines being the rubber o-rings will be exposed to the solvent and won't the residue specifically the chemical content in a solvent contaminate the moly.

I've used diesel fuel and a brass brush.

I use cheap Brake Cleaner.  Put down on the floor a couple layers of cardboard and rags to catch the mess.  The old grease will melt away and no effort involved.   

[sdv003]

I just finished the rear end service on my 97 Tourer this weekend.  I didn't see the stopper ring (on the end of the shaft in the pinion cup) mentioned as a part that was needed.  The manual says to replace it every time you remove the shaft from the cup.  The new one was exactly the same as the old one. Is it unnecessary to replace that ring every time you pull the final drive shaft out of the pinion cup?

[The emperor has no clothes]

I just finished the rear end service on my 97 Tourer this weekend.  I didn't see the stopper ring (on the end of the shaft in the pinion cup) mentioned as a part that was needed.  The manual says to replace it every time you remove the shaft from the cup.  The new one was exactly the same as the old one. Is it unnecessary to replace that ring every time you pull the final drive shaft out of the pinion cup?

If you are talking about the seal the only time I changed mine was when one got buggered up. (By a dealer)

[Chrisj CMA]

I just finished the rear end service on my 97 Tourer this weekend.  I didn't see the stopper ring (on the end of the shaft in the pinion cup) mentioned as a part that was needed.  The manual says to replace it every time you remove the shaft from the cup.  The new one was exactly the same as the old one. Is it unnecessary to replace that ring every time you pull the final drive shaft out of the pinion cup?

I have done many rear end services...never changed out a clip.  only if it was broken or worn so the drive shaft didn't stick in the cup would I consider changing one.