Electrical question

[gordonv]

I'm asking here because of what seems to be a much better knowledge and helpful people, than on the GW forum.

I've my Goldwing, and want a way of disconnecting the battery, so it wont drain. This would kill the memory of the radio and clock, and need to be reset every time I restore power.

I thought that swiveling the 55A dog bone fuse out would be the easiest and cheapest method. Since one side has an eyelet, and the other a hook, loosen the screws, swivel the hook out and retighten. Didn't like the idea of doing this on the positive side, so was going to add a second 55A fuse on the negative side.

Anyone see a problem with this? I would need to relocate all my accessories wires to the other side of the 55A fuse block. Is doing this to the negative side any different than the positive, or should I do both? A broken circuit, is a broken circuit, and I don't see any down side to it.

Other methods might have been a relay, but then it would be energized when I don't shut it off (while riding), and the draw would be even greater.

A switch (on/off) would be nice, but where to put it? I don't like it in the open, and don't want to put it under the gas filler door (spark and gas don't mix). Anywhere else would make it more of a hassle than it's worth.

Unbolting the battery would also be difficult, with all the extra leads and seat in the way.

Fastest seems to be pop the side cover off (easier than the Valk's), flip open the fuse block and release the 2 screws, flip the bone and tighten the eyelet back up.

[Jess from VA]

I cannot answer your question directly.  I would also like to have a battery disconnect in my Dodge Intrepid (with the stupid fender well battery) for the same reason; and because the battery is burried in the fender well under other parts, it makes a standard shutoff difficult to install.

But I have been running Battery Tender (Juniors and a Plus) on my bikes (up to 5, now 2), for 10 years, 24 X 7 X 365 when not riding (or on trips), and have never lost a battery or a battery tender junior (the Plus died this winter but had not been in use for the last few years).  I replaced my batteries at 10 years, just because of age, they were still working perfectly.  Pigtail hooked to the bike battery and zip tied to the frame, Tenders plugged into the wall; when I pull in, I turn the key off, the petcock off and plug in the Tender pigtail.  This would solve miniscule battery drain over time, and keep your battery in tip top shape, day to day, or all Winter (I never pull mine in winter anymore). Also you get a red led when charging and green when on float, and every time you go out to ride, you check for green, and you know your battery is at full charge when departing.

Now in retirement I am only driving my car 2-4 times a month, so I stuck another Jr on it in the driveway too, and no more low/dead battery.  And I finally upgraded to a big new electric start generator to back up my house, and put a Jr on that battery too.  I have never overcharged or damaged a battery.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S

[SirLancelot]

Why not simply use an optimiser, it would be easier and quicker

[Kunkies]

Agree with SirLance, what you are describing is exactly what a baterry tender is for.

[Pappy!]

Unless you leave the battery connected to the radio via a dedicated "keep alive memory wire" your radio will still lose memory. That would mean yet another wire connected to your battery.
Best bet is a tender connected to an SAE style connector.

[da prez]

  A construction equipment dis connect ( easier to look up) in a smaller version is a switch. You can run a dedicated memory wire for the radio/clock but dis connect the rest of the system.

                    da prez

[sandy]

My 1800 wing doesn't have a battery drain issue. It would be better to find the problem. If you added any accessories, disconnect them and see if there's a change. If you know how to analyze with a VOM, you can find which circuit is the issue.

[gordonv]

I'm in a townhouse and am not allowed to work on any vehicle in strata property. So a charger would be in violation. I try to ride more often, even during the winter, but it's just not happening. So that is why the disconnect. I also park in the underground, so no solar.

Jess,
I used to take the car off the road and insure the m/c for the warm months, then place a solar charger on the car, which would keep it charged to fall. No plugging in. An easy disconnect, then take off to drive. This might solve your issue. I think mine was a 1W panel.


I don't think I have an unknown drain on the battery, just that it's more than 2 weeks between rides, and trips shorter than 2 hrs. Battery manufacturer recommends 2 hr every 2 weeks to maintan full charge.

If I disconnect the battery from any draw, then I should be good for months.

[Jess from VA]

Gordon, it occurred to me you might be in a condo or something like that.  But I went ahead and mentioned plug-ins anyway.   

I don't suppose you could ride it in your front door. 

[Troystg]

NOT a good idea to fuse the return side..  Resistance in the return path(yes a 55 amp fuse adds resistance) can cause havoc with electronics.  Not to mention what would happen if the ground fuse blew and then all the running electronics lost their ground.  You could get arching through the insulation to the frame to get back to the alternator.

Please find an alternate way on the positive side.


Troy

[Earl43P]

Remove the dog-bone fuse altogether. Then use its empty terminals to connect a fuseholder with a circuit breaker, rather than a fuse.  Unplug that when not being ridden. Carry spare fuses!

Do not fuse the ground side.

[gordonv]

Remove the dog-bone fuse altogether. Then use its empty terminals to connect a fuseholder with a circuit breaker, rather than a fuse.  Unplug that when not being ridden. Carry spare fuses!

Do not fuse the ground side.

Now that sounds very interesting. Any idea of a circuit breaker? Would this then be like a houses, which trips, and you just reset? Name/brand/model?

You are not referring to a regular bladed fuse, 55A, which I could pull to disconnect the positive side?

[Gryphon Rider]

Why not just pull the fuse to the radio/instrument cluster.  Is that fuse accessible?

[gordonv]

Now that is something also. Remove the fuse for the items that have the drain.

I'll look the manual over tonight.

[Icelander]

I don't really know what the drain is on your radio. A smaller 12v battery pack could be plugged into the radio side of the fuse connection. (not the side that measures 12v when the bike's battery is connected)

You'd basically have to create a small harness for the stock radio fuse that would have a fuse holder and an additional pigtail that connected to the radio-side of the fuse. When you want to disconnect the bike's battery, plug in your "maintenance" battery, unplug the radio's fuse, and then disconnect the dog-bone.

The question I can't answer is, how much does the radio's memory circuit draw? You'd need to size the maintenance battery pack to handle the draw for however long you leave it connected.

You could also go with an isolator circuit on a second 12v battery. I've seen these used for RV and off-road applications, you run a second battery and isolate the radio's circuit from the main battery. The isolator keeps the second battery charged but won't let the main battery's circuits draw from the secondary.

Both options are quite a bit of work.

[Earl43P]

http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/fuse-and-accessories/cooper-bussmann-fuse-and-accessories/32415_0_0/

http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/fuse-and-accessories/draw-tite-fuse-and-accessories/450366_0_0/

I'd scratch my idea.
Can't verify the gage of the fuseholder wire (needs to be ~12 ga.) and I certainly cannot find a blade fuse at 55A.

[Troystg]

....Can't verify the gage of the fuseholder wire (needs to be ~12 ga.) and I certainly cannot find a blade fuse at 55A.....



http://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/automotive-passenger-car/blade-fuses/299.aspx

[Gryphon Rider]

At 55A the smallest wire you should use is 10 Gauge.  I would be happier with 6 Gauge.  But I don't think fussing with the 55A fuse circuit is going to accomplish what you want, anyway.  Don't assume without looking at a wiring diagram that the 55A fuse even disconnects the battery from the circuits that you are trying to de-energize.  I don't have the schematic for your GoldWing to look at, but on the Valkyrie Tourer/Standard the 55A fuse only services the charging circuit, and does not disconnect the battery from other circuits.  On the Valkyrie Interstate the 55A fuse is between the battery and the headlight power and audio/meter power circuits, but these circuits are switched by relays controlled by other circuits NOT affected by the 55A fuse.  The way to ensure all battery-powered circuits are disconnected on all Valkyries is by pulling the 30A fuse at the starter relay.  Perhaps your GoldWing is wired similarly.

[DK]

How about disconnecting the positive cable & all attached wiring from the battery, attach the battery cable & associated wiring to an extended length of identical or slightly larger gauge cable using a soldered lug & insulating it well with the proper kinds of tape (silicon is probably best), & sheath it with friction tape & a length of bicycle tube.

Route the extension cable to a desireable & convenient location elsewhere on the bike & connect it to a switch. The kind we used on the firewall of race cars would be good for this & I think they are made in a smaller size. As an extra security measure, the switch could be hidden in a trunk or even installed in plain view as the handle / knob of the switch is a removable key. O

Then, just route a return cable back to the positive battery terminal, run a separate circuit to the memory devices & you are done

An even simpler solution would be to purchase one of the new high density lithium batteries, charge it, & keep it in the bike. These things hold a charge forever, are the size of a small paperback book, & store enough power to start a Valk dozens of times or your car a half-dozen times. They also work to charge laptops, phones etc. I carry one even though my Valk does not have battery drainage problems. My fear is a dead battery caused by leaving something on when out somewhere north of east jesus with no help in sight. Also, it works for all my vehicles & other purposes.

If you go the lithium battery route, install one of the European BMW type charging cords & extend it into a side cover so as to have a convenient connection for jumper cables, battery tenders & such. I carry a 25' extension to plug into a cigarette lighter of a nearby car if I were to need to jump start. It also has an adapter of tradional clamps and an extra connector & pigtail for whatever...hooking up an inverter, toaster, toothbrush,...whatever.

Dan

Dan

Dan

[gordonv]

DK

Your first suggestion is what I was going for. I was going to add another 55A dog bone fuse, which I already have, from the battery ground. All I would have to do is to take the lead from the negative, and attach it to the no lead side of the fuse holder. Then after wrapping the red lead with black electrical tape, attach it to the negative.

The GW side cover has 3 "pins" holding it on, so is really easy to pull off without breakage, and push back on.

I bough a lithium battery. Posted about it. Found that it will last a long time, but only if removed and stored in a cold (5'C) place, so it goes into sleep mode. But if there is any drain, like the GW and IS with the radio and clock, then you must retain a 13.1V charge or the battery warranty is void. Recommendation is to go for a 2 hr ride every 2 weeks, minimum, to maintain the proper charge.


I've just charged my battery today, and will confirm that by pulling fuse 9, that my clock and memory is gone. As Gryphon Rider suggested. I think this will work the best.

Everything mentioned is possible. Could be done. It's just more a matter of what is easier to do. Summer riding, I don't think I need to worry at all about a drain. But during the winter, pull the fuses, and then I don't need to worry about the battery. I only ride for about an hour or so, usually just to the local hangout for coffee with the boys.