spark plug torque

[zzed28]

Another question, I have new plugs that I have not torqued. The manual says 12 foot pounds, I have also heard, that if you use anti seize, which I did use,,,, you should reduce torque by twenty percent, this brings it to only ten pounds, what say you all.

Also, I have read that torquing, should be done in three phases these days, first torque about seventy percent, second round, 85 percent, and last full 100 percent torque.   What do youz think, and is there any other documentation for this scheme.  I always used to just do full torque at time of assembly, once, then run the item for a while then retorque at 100 percent.

[Bighead]

Never torqued a spark plug before personally.

[Chrisj CMA]

Our plugs have the crush washer thing.  So the very first time you tighten them there will be a double stop sorta.  First, lose the torque wrench.  One needs to learn what proper tightness FEELS like on fasteners that aren't critical that they be an exact setting.  So you apply the anti sieze that's good then you start tightening.  As you gingerly turn the plug it will stop when the crush gasket comes in contact with the engine.  YOU MUST CONTINUE once you overcome the initial crush force the plug will get a tad easier to turn.  Then when it stops again you give her an 1/8 of a turn to a 1/4 of a turn and call it good.  The next time you don't have to do the two stops.  Just the 1/8 of a turn past the stop.    

Learn what it feels like

If you want to be fancy marke the plugs and then index them for optimum performance

[zzed28]

Thanks guys, I did end up finding NGK s website for tourqing into alu heads. They make no mention of the three step info. In any case, the job is done. NGK says the indexing is fine, but it wont bring more than a one percent more, even in a race engine, then there is the decision, at what area do you point the open end at, in order to know what to do about that, ngk says a dyno is a must, hahahaa.   Thanks again.

[da prez]

  O K , here goes. In one of my certification classes , the issue of torque was discussed.
 If you torque (I will use round numbers) to 100 foot pounds , It will take 10% more to move the bolt or nut. So , if you torque to 90 fp , and finish with a 100fp torque , chances are that it is not a true torque. This was tested and found to be very accurate. This is why they torque to say 50fp and then add 1/6 or 1/4 turn to the bolt or nut. On heavy trucks , we were required to torque wheel bearings in a specified pattern so all were done the same. Prepping the bolts and nuts properly are necessary to get the most accurate torque.

                              da prez

[Earl43P]

Good info in this thread!

Let me share a recent experience?

Bought a 93 Goldwing last October that needed some work (CHEAP!).
Toward the end, I decided to install new plugs, trying to zero time as many items as possible (new rubber, new pads/bleed/flush, etc). Exact same plugs as the Valkyrie, btw.

What I found on the spark plug threads was combustion soot the ENTIRE length of the threads. Never saw that before and DID notice that removing those plugs was a low effort, quick twist to the left. Ran them all out by hand using the socket/extension after the initial loosening.

Long story short, after several idle warmups up to fan cycling (prior to actually riding it), I pulled one plug and found only the exposed tip of the plug had any evidence of combustion. I used the "tighten 1/6 - 1/3 turn after a sharp rise in torque is felt" method.

The PO had left all 6 new spark plug equally loose and seeing the black "soot" on the threads was a first for me.

FWIW, I reused those NGK fine wire Iridiums that I found in there, after cleaning and gapping. They were so pristine new-looking that I couldn't NOT reuse them (the NGKs I bought were NOT Iridum). The bike runs great as my new DD (retired my GL1100 for a while). I'm on my fourth tank of gas already this week, getting 35-37 mpg commuting 65+mph.

Valkyrie is still parked at Mom's in Pa. since the Dam Ride weekend.
Sniff, I miss it!

[Kunkies]

Agree with Chris above, crush (the washer) first, THEN torque to spec'

[Ricky-D]

Torque specifications are predicated on clean dry threads, non-lubricated.

You chance ripping out the aluminum thread when you lubricate.

If you have to use a torque wrench in combination with an anti-seize, I

would say "you're in way over your head".

***

[zzed28]

Hey Rick,    Thanks for your input, but trust me, I am not in over my head when it comes to steel threads in cast iron heads. These are alu, and I have not changed a plug in alu, for some time, and then they were on simple and inexpensive bikes.  I am a little paranoid about alu heads, because the last one I did, the thing got stripped, and the engine was not worth fixing even though it was only a couple years old. Twas a design screwup, a short half inch plug thread on a suburu robin head.

 I should have checked the ngk website first I guess.   Ngk has a nice write up on plugs, and why wouldnt they know best since they supply oem.  The Honda manual, says a certain torque is to be used.  I dont know how to get a to a  particular  torque, without a wrench. Upon a second NGK view, they say not to put AS on new NGK plugs, since they put something on at the factory.  So I will remove them and clean them off.

 The last question regarding the stepped torque , I guess is the only question that was necessary, and then only because I cant find ready access to other info on it at the ready.

[John Schmidt]

Dang, I changed plugs on old scooters and bikes, cars, what have you starting before I was able to drive. That was a looooong time ago, have never used a torque wrench on them yet, never had one seize or strip. I just take it down to a solid snug feel, then a hair more....blond or redhead, your choice. 

[cookiedough]

Just don't crank down on them like godzilla and you will be fine.

Turn to tighten lightly with socket, then just a tad/smidge more is all. 

I have broken off one or two spark plugs from the threads entirely trying to get them out,  but only in much older cars where they are welded in from all the gunk/oil/sludge deposits after say 80K+ miles on them.

Putting in new plugs not an issue once the old plugs are out.

[crow]

Just my two cents.  I use a product made by the swagelok company.  PN ms-tl-sgt   silver goop.  Its very expensive!!, on my spark plugs.   Silver goop is good for 1500 deg.   Ive never torqued a spark plug, but am a believer in torqueing bolts to their proper torque.  Torque charts are calibrated for clean threads, wiped dry.  This is insure continuity in industry. Toque would be different for different thread lubricants.   The only time I use three, and up to five, torque steps, is at work.  Flanges holding back thousand deg steam at a thousand psi,  big nuts, big torque. 

[Jess from VA]

Flanges holding back thousand deg steam at a thousand psi, big nuts, big torque. 

Oh to be young again.    

[fudgie]

Flanges holding back thousand deg steam at a thousand psi, big nuts, big torque. 

Oh to be young again.    

  

[john]

                                spark plug torque  ?
                                       snug                  

[zzed28]

Thousand degree steam, wow!   

In any case, I am good,got em in, and the bike is running fine, thanks guys.