Spent the afternoon helping a Valk brother with u joint.

[Bighead]

I spent my afternoon helping a Valk buddy replace the u Joint on a 99 tourer
But when we got it all apart every part looked and felt new I didn't hear the problem before hand but wha he described sounded like U joint. All gears in final drive up to the engine were perfect. So when he gets his new tire mounted we will get. it back together and see if it still makes the noise he described.  It was a good day wrenching but not so good when you find nothing wrong ???.
Any ideas?

[Jess from VA]

You never want to doubt a friend, but methinks you should have taken a ride before the work started.

[Tfrank59]

It is been noted that to Properly test The u joint You have to grab one end of it in a vice  and twist hard The other end with channel locks To really detect the slop.  Did you guys do that?

[Bighead]

You never want to doubt a friend, but methinks you should have taken a ride before the work started.

Understood but he had started before he called

It is been noted that to Properly test The u joint You have to grab one end of it in a vice  and twist hard The other end with channel locks To really detect the slop.  Did you guys do that?

Yep and it is as tight as the new one ???
Also wanted to say that the boot everyone cusses about went on in about 4-5 minutes 

[hoosier jaybird]

You didn't detect a slight catch when you flexed it? Mine had no slop but a slight catch. When I took it to the machine shop to have it rebuilt, 3 of the caps had grease in them fine but the 4th was dry and rusty and notches on the journal hence the catch. Good luck on your fix.

[pancho]

Maybe now you can take it for a ride and hear what he was talking about and get a better idea.  Good deal with the boot, must have been holding your mouth right.

[Bighead]

I am hoping when he gets his tire and we get that on that the noise is gone. I wish I had heard it or felt it before. We went ahead and replaced the U joint and if it fixes the problem good if not he will have a spare. Bike only has about 37k on the clock. We will see.

[Six-Cylinder Hooligan]

Wanted to say that the boot everyone cusses about went on in about 4-5 minutes 

Show off! LoL 

[Bighead]

Wanted to say that the boot everyone cusses about went on in about 4-5 minutes 

Show off! LoL 

And it was my first attempt. I would say beginners luck?
Actually I put the front on then started at the back side and put the bottom on and just worked my thumb and index finger around the sides and she was on.

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

Wanted to say that the boot everyone cusses about went on in about 4-5 minutes 

Show off! LoL 

And it was my first attempt. I would say beginners luck?
Actually I put the front on then started at the back side and put the bottom on and just worked my thumb and index finger around the sides and she was on.

Mine went on easy too when did a check first time  Hope it solved the noise.

[madentist11]

Thanks for the help BH!!!! Had a great time tearing her apart. But I'm in agreement that we aren't sure about finding the problem. Headed to Fayetteville this a m to get new tire on rear and put back on. I'll let y'all know what happens, ie, if we fixed the problem. [i[/img]

[Bighead]

Tom you do know how to type call me when you start and I will be back to help

[Daniel Meyer]

Did you pop the shaft out of the pinion cup and inspect that?

[Joe Hummer]

You also need to check the wheel dampers.  Those being loose could cause noises in the driveline. 

[Bighead]

Did you pop the shaft out of the pinion cup and inspect that?

Yes looked New even looked inside at the pinion gear all looked new.

You also need to check the wheel dampers.  Those being loose could cause noises in the driveline. 

First thing we looked at when she'll came off

[Daniel Meyer]

Hmmm...only two suggestions left would be a wheel bearing...and a long shot...the rubber fender liner on the front fender having come loose...

I'd worry too...not finding anything. This stuff doesn't fix itself.

Of course...I also tell folks on those elusive noises...just ride it hard. It'll make itself readily evident soon enough!

[madentist11]

We brought the wheel home and discovered that the left bearig was gone. The shop found it on the floor. We put it back in and it just slips right out. Clay never saw that b4. Me either. Ive ordered new bearings and will ckeck to c if the wheel is bad or the bearing. One more  bit to add to the puzzle. How's my typing, Bighead?

[Tfrank59]

We brought the wheel home and discovered that the left bearig was gone. The shop found it on the floor. We put it back in and it just slips right out. Clay never saw that b4. Me either. Ive ordered new bearings and will ckeck to c if the wheel is bad or the bearing. One more  bit to add to the puzzle. How's my typing, Bighead?

Ugh, that's likely going to be a big problem.  What it probably took to cause that is a bearing failure and then it probably spun in the cast wheel hub, So now you might have to find a new wheel.  You need to check for visual signs of cracking or overheating– all this assumes of course that a new bearing's outer race will not be a pressfit now--And so even if the hub's not cracked it's oversize and none of the choices at this point are very appealing.  Because if a new bearing won't press in (and again if the hub is not Cracked or otherwise compromised), You either have to sleeve it or use some crazy Loctite or something like that – and none of these are good fixes.  Good luck and let us know what you decide.

[Valkpilot]

We brought the wheel home and discovered that the left bearig was gone. The shop found it on the floor. We put it back in and it just slips right out. Clay never saw that b4. Me either. Ive ordered new bearings and will ckeck to c if the wheel is bad or the bearing. One more  bit to add to the puzzle. How's my typing, Bighead?

Ugh, that's likely going to be a big problem.  What it probably took to cause that is a bearing failure and then it probably spun in the cast wheel hub, So now you might have to find a new wheel.  You need to check for visual signs of cracking or overheating– all this assumes of course that a new bearing's outer race will not be a pressfit now--And so even if the hub's not cracked it's oversize and none of the choices at this point are very appealing.  Because if a new bearing won't press in (and again if the hub is not Cracked or otherwise compromised), You either have to sleeve it or use some crazy Loctite or something like that – and none of these are good fixes.  Good luck and let us know what you decide.

If it is not downright sloppy or badly out of round, you can take a punch and dimple the circumference of the bearing cup, near where the outer bearing surface will be when fully seated.

Start by punching in alignment with the five rotor bolt holes, then go around again and put a dimple between each of those.

What this does is create a raised rim around the dimple, kind of like an impact crater on the moon.  Then, when you press in the bearing, this raised material sort of flattens and smears as the bearing is pressed in, shimming it in place.

I have a set of chromed wheels that were honed out to remove the chrome from the bearing cups and someone was too enthusiastic with the material removal, making them slightly oversized.  This worked for me, but I did have to re-do it on one bearing cup.

In my opinion, if your wheel is still stock, I'd try and find a replacement from Pinwall or a trike takeoff rather than one of the suggested options.   It will be less expensive than sleeving it and a sure-fire solution.

[Bighead]

We brought the wheel home and discovered that the left bearig was gone. The shop found it on the floor. We put it back in and it just slips right out. Clay never saw that b4. Me either. Ive ordered new bearings and will ckeck to c if the wheel is bad or the bearing. One more  bit to add to the puzzle. How's my typing, Bighead?

Ugh, that's likely going to be a big problem.  What it probably took to cause that is a bearing failure and then it probably spun in the cast wheel hub, So now you might have to find a new wheel.  You need to check for visual signs of cracking or overheating– all this assumes of course that a new bearing's outer race will not be a pressfit now--And so even if the hub's not cracked it's oversize and none of the choices at this point are very appealing.  Because if a new bearing won't press in (and again if the hub is not Cracked or otherwise compromised), You either have to sleeve it or use some crazy Loctite or something like that – and none of these are good fixes.  Good luck and let us know what you decide.

Ding ding ding we have the winner. And It will require a new rear wheel
Did t notice anything weird witht the wheel at all but when the bearing was out it had actually worn a hole in the hub really strange. PO must have replaced bearings and sold quickly

[Tfrank59]

[/quote]PO must have replaced bearings and sold quickly
[/quote]

Hate it when that happens!

[pancho]

Yeah, that's pretty low.

[madentist11]

I agree.