Get a butter knife you ain't real proud of. Work the butter knife in close to the screw you want to remove. As you are turning pry GENTLY with the butter knife. Once you get the 2nd one out you will KNOW how much too pry. ALL that A B S plastic in the fairing is thinner than you think it is. Take your time with this procedure. I KNOW it works cause I have an I/S and the same cursed thing happened to me. When you reinstall those brass ferrules use some liquid steel or an epoxy. Keep the mastic out of the threads. When you reinstall screws use some anti seize. If you need any new ferrules here is that part #90316-MJ1-000. Order at least one more than you THINK you need!
Trust me on that!
The ferrule SHOULD remain on that screw and put a small vice rip on the ferrule with just enough pressure to back off and remove screw. RIDE SAFE.
This is all good instructions.
Can I add a little something? Those ferrules/nuts have slits along the sides. The way I have done it, to prevent the JB Weld from getting into the threads is to put anti-seize on the screw, screw it into the nut and then push it (the nut with the screw) into the boss in the fairing. After the epoxy has cured the screw will back out.
Also, when putting the speaker covers back on, do not tighten the screws very hard. Just snug will do as the screw has a shoulder that when it contacts the top flat surface of the nut, it is tight. If you snug it down too much, the screw is not going to want to back out of the nut very easily no matter how much anti-seize you use. Then you will be back to doing this all over again.
