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Author Topic: front brake issue...  (Read 1247 times)
hukmut
Member
*****
Posts: 295


Stone County, Mississippi


« on: April 22, 2015, 04:03:28 PM »

Ok. On my project bike, I replaced the seals, got new pads, a new master cylinder/lever assy., slowlyworked the lever until there were no bubbles from the bottom of the reservoir, bled the banjo bolt very carefully, then bled the left caliper until I got a strong stream with no bubbles, and then bled the right side. All the while diligently maintaining a full brake fluid reservoir.
Not once did I ever get  decent pressure at the lever.
Yes, I did that zip tie thing at the grip. No, it did not work. Several times.
This is not my first time bleeding brake systems.
Oh, and by the way, the right caliper seems to move in towards the wheel, slightly bending the rotor as it moves.
The left caliper does not seem to do much, if anything.
All 4 pistons are moving, ie, not stuck.
Wheel is centered in the forks. New brake fluid. New brake cylinder/lever assembly. Even took it apart to check for debris. None found.
Got a big rally to attend this weekend and I really want/need my front brakes working, if you know what I mean.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated! THANKS ALL!
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Hook#3287
Member
*****
Posts: 6448


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2015, 05:17:31 PM »

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-brake-bleeder.html?fee=7&fep=49482&adpos=1o1&creative=61491486660&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&SRCCODE=GA220010&gclid=CPuszduTi8UCFegF7AodvAMAyw

Try one of these.  Sounds like your system is air bound somehow.
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Valkpilot
Member
*****
Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2015, 05:22:46 PM »

Ok. On my project bike, I replaced the seals, got new pads, a new master cylinder/lever assy., slowlyworked the lever until there were no bubbles from the bottom of the reservoir, bled the banjo bolt very carefully, then bled the left caliper until I got a strong stream with no bubbles, and then bled the right side. All the while diligently maintaining a full brake fluid reservoir.
Not once did I ever get  decent pressure at the lever.
Yes, I did that zip tie thing at the grip. No, it did not work. Several times.
This is not my first time bleeding brake systems.
Oh, and by the way, the right caliper seems to move in towards the wheel, slightly bending the rotor as it moves.
The left caliper does not seem to do much, if anything.
All 4 pistons are moving, ie, not stuck.
Wheel is centered in the forks. New brake fluid. New brake cylinder/lever assembly. Even took it apart to check for debris. None found.
Got a big rally to attend this weekend and I really want/need my front brakes working, if you know what I mean.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated! THANKS ALL!

Double check that you don't have a very small leak at a banjo connection.  They'll suck air.
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IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
hukmut
Member
*****
Posts: 295


Stone County, Mississippi


« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2015, 05:27:59 PM »

Yes. It was. Replaced the washers with new ones.
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SteveBC777
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Posts: 11


2000 tourer red/black {minus screen}

Pattaya Thailand


WWW
« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2015, 01:57:58 AM »

RE the right caliper, it sounds like it is stuck on the sliding mounts ( the pins which are fitted with rubber boots ).

As for bleeding, You seem to of done the usual but omitted to do this.

Try to sit the bike as vertical as you possibly can, take the top cover off of the master cylinder, then turn the steering on full right hand lock ( you may need to remove a little fluid from the reservoir to stop any spillage ) and crack open the bleed screw on the left hand caliper, you will often get a bubble out as the bleed screw is sitting right at the top of the caliper. Then repeat the process by turning steering to the left and opening the right hand bleed screw. You only need to hold a piece of rag around the bleed screw as as soon as clear fluid comes out you tighten them.

Once you have the right hand caliper freely sliding on the mounts, and those evasive bubbles out of the system you should be good to go. I trust your flexy hoses are in good condition and not swelling under pressure ??
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Spannerman to some of the nicest chaps you could ever wished to of met .
hukmut
Member
*****
Posts: 295


Stone County, Mississippi


« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2015, 03:50:41 PM »

Got it. It was indeed a pin sticking. All of the parts that it took to build this bike came from used/wrecked bikes.
This particular caliper has a spot of road rash at the pin that has the screw cap on it with the allen head pin underneath. Got it? Anyway, after spending all day trying to figure out why, if I tighten the bolts that hold the caliper onto the fork, I would get no pressure at the handle. If I loosen those bolts just a little bit, I get full pressure. This after bleeding nearly a whole bottle of brake fluid. So, after replacing both pins (pita), VOILA! JOY!
I had already renewed the seals and actually had another caliper (with a stuck piston) that I could look at to compare.
The sliding part was also bent just enough and it was easily replaced.
Never would have figured it out (well, maybe eventually), but not without some major frustration and aggravation.
Again, this forum has done what it was intended to do, and that is to provide assistance to those individuals intent on keeping these wonderful machines alive and well. Thank you.
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6448


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2015, 06:31:21 AM »

Quote
Not once did I ever get  decent pressure at the lever. ....I tighten the bolts that hold the caliper onto the fork, I would get no pressure at the handle. If I loosen those bolts just a little bit, I get full pressure.

Can someone explain why this is?
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2015, 08:13:29 AM »

Because of the caliper position being stuck in place, the pistons upon

release of the brake lever were pushed back into the caliper housing.

Squeeze the lever again and all the movement is taken up simply

moving the pistons into position again with nothing left to affect

any braking. In a good operating system, the pistons should stay "out"

with the pads rubbing slightly against the rotors.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Hook#3287
Member
*****
Posts: 6448


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2015, 06:27:36 AM »

Guess I misunderstood what hukmut meant by no pressure.  With the Pistons sticking, he has pressure, but the lever is just going to the point of pressure, taking up the slack, giving the feeling of no pressure.
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