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mike72903
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« on: April 23, 2015, 04:05:59 PM » |
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Just starting my first rear wheel change. Followed the Dag video sequence. No problem until after I pull the wheel to the left off the final drive and raise the bike. The wheel catches on the studs projecting out from the final drive and will not move past them. I did remove the spacer from the left side. I don't want to force anything and break it. So what now? Thought about loosening the 4 fine drive bolts to see what happened, but decided to ask before I made things worse. Thanks for your advice.
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Bighead
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« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2015, 04:20:15 PM » |
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Jack it up higher and let swing arm fall below exhaust. Did you remove brake caliper?
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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sandy
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« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2015, 04:25:45 PM » |
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Some use a long screwdriver and force the 5 pins back into the wheel. If this is too hard, remove the 4 nuts on the final drive and pull the wheel and drive unit together. Then part them on the ground. The drive shaft and drive unit should be looked at with every tire change anyway.
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Highbinder
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« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2015, 04:37:58 PM » |
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What Sandy said, those studs are attached to part of your spline, they are suppose to follow the wheel off by staying in the holes, try sliding the wheel back on to them and then take a long screw driver or pry bar and pry against the plate that the studs are attached to, this should seperate the spline gear with the wheel and allow it to drop down.....this happens alot, so don't think you have problem....when prying be sure to not damage the plastic ring on the hub, there is a slot at the bottom where you should be able to pry without any damage....like Sandy said you can as drop the drive shaft and seperate it once its out, you need to check the pionion cup anyway...you might want to take a little weight off the studs by jacking the wheel up slightly....then pry it loose....good luck...  |
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Bighead
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« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2015, 04:50:06 PM » |
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I must have not understood what was being said and if it is hanging on the part described above follow sandy's instructions.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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pancho
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« Reply #5 on: April 23, 2015, 05:17:54 PM » |
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The "studs" you are seeing is the driven flange, it is a separate piece and needs to come off with the wheel, do what sandy said, there is a slot in the bottom of the plastic cover where you can put a long screwdriver and pry the flange back into the wheel then the wheel will come out. Have the wheel supported when you do this so it does not fall out and get you.
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« Last Edit: April 23, 2015, 05:22:31 PM by pancho »
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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mike72903
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« Reply #7 on: April 23, 2015, 06:01:17 PM » |
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Thanks everyone. Thought I had read about everything but never heard of this. I'm off to take a look for the prying location and will try that first. I was going to take the final drive off anyway so if the first option I all have an alternative. Thanks again.
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mike72903
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« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2015, 06:09:32 PM » |
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Wow that was easy and worked great. Thanks again. Live and learn. Now to remove the drive so I'll be ready to wrestle with taking off the tire and putting their new one on tomorrow.
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mike72903
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« Reply #9 on: April 23, 2015, 07:37:33 PM » |
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  Appears the black plastic that goes around the hub is chewed up some from a previous attempt by someone. Does this need to be replaced? |
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« Last Edit: April 23, 2015, 08:31:26 PM by CI_borg »
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #10 on: April 23, 2015, 08:07:53 PM » |
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Probably not if it is still a dust seal. Mine are a bit chewed too at the slot (but not shot) (I didn't do it). Prying usually gets it done, but the other trick is to pull the axle out enough to remove the spacer and brake caliper then slide the axle back thru; which holds the weight of the tire/wheel level while you work it off/apart. This is even better when trying to muscle the new tire/wheel up under, and onto the hub again for install (working alone). And remember to torque the axle with the four hub bolts still very loose, and only then tighten them back up. Don't hang the caliper on the hose, use a coat hanger or something. And clean/scrub the dirty thing when off. Grease the pins the pads slide on (but not the pads). Also a good time to put fresh 75-90 synthetic in the pumpkin (while off). And either replace the crappy Honda valve stem and elbow (both), or better go with an all steel or aluminum valve stem (90*). Did you look at this? http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx |
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« Last Edit: April 23, 2015, 08:11:54 PM by Jess from VA »
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mike72903
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« Reply #11 on: April 23, 2015, 08:38:05 PM » |
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Finally got the pictures to post.
Jess, yes I read the shoptalk article and everything else I could find. After looking at the pictures what do you think about replacement? Caliper is hanging from a nylon tie. Already have the 90 degree stems. Tomorrow I'll clean the old grease out/off with mineral spirits and look for the three O rings to replace. Anyone have a recommendation for the best way to get the grease out of the pinion cup?
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« Last Edit: April 23, 2015, 08:39:50 PM by CI_borg »
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sandy
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« Reply #12 on: April 24, 2015, 05:31:21 AM » |
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Removing grease: Use paper towels and follow up with spray brake cleaner.
BTW: I have new dust ring for the final drive if you want it. PM me or use my email. It's available in my profile.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #13 on: April 24, 2015, 06:01:26 AM » |
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After looking at the pictures what do you think about replacement?
I'm not really sure. While that edge is pretty abused, it may still do it's job adequately.
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pancho
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« Reply #14 on: April 24, 2015, 06:48:26 AM » |
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Your final drive actually looks a bit cleaner than expected on the inside,,, while the o rings are meant to keep the moly and grease in and the dust out, don't spare the lubrication on reassembly to keep the splines and flange in good condition. Be sure the thrust washer (#4 in the diagram) goes back in and does not get misplaced.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #15 on: April 24, 2015, 08:54:22 AM » |
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If you are entering it in show n shine contests where the judges get down on their hands and knees for a thorough look-see, you should definitely replace it. If not...no big deal. I would replace it just because I don't like looking at cosmetic damage like that.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #16 on: April 24, 2015, 12:29:59 PM » |
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But on a bagger IS/Tourer, you really have to crawl around on hands and knees to see it.
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Brian
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« Reply #17 on: April 26, 2015, 05:32:22 AM » |
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Probably not if it is still a dust seal. Mine are a bit chewed too at the slot (but not shot) (I didn't do it). Prying usually gets it done, but the other trick is to pull the axle out enough to remove the spacer and brake caliper then slide the axle back thru; which holds the weight of the tire/wheel level while you work it off/apart. This is even better when trying to muscle the new tire/wheel up under, and onto the hub again for install (working alone). And remember to torque the axle with the four hub bolts still very loose, and only then tighten them back up. Don't hang the caliper on the hose, use a coat hanger or something. And clean/scrub the dirty thing when off. Grease the pins the pads slide on (but not the pads). Also a good time to put fresh 75-90 synthetic in the pumpkin (while off). And either replace the crappy Honda valve stem and elbow (both), or better go with an all steel or aluminum valve stem (90*). Did you look at this? http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx We all learn things as we start working on these bikes. Sliding the axle back into the swingarm after removing the spacer and brake mount really helps to avoid all the prying and also helps a lot when installing the rear wheel after service. I use an automotive floor jack to raise and lower the rear wheel I also use a small ratchet strap to help raise and lower the swing. And yes I use a hanger to hold up the brake caliper. Pulling the rear end with the wheel and the drive shaft is the quickest as I pull them off anyway every year. I find the whole process is easier for the first timer if the exhaust is removed from both sides. True this is a whole lot more work but helps to have the room as well as removing the back half of the rear fender. Leaving the 4 nuts loose on the pumpkin is key to reinstalling for easy alignment and should be the items tightened after the axle nut is torqued. |
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Brian
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« Reply #18 on: April 29, 2015, 06:45:10 PM » |
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Thanks, Brian, that's it. The rear wheel removal and installation sequence in the manuals (like Clymer's) is not the best method. That book says remove the rear axle entirely before separating the rear wheel from the driven flange. Gravity causes this wheel and driven flange to bind together, and it takes force to move the driven flange back in. Hard to do.
The rear axle is like an alignment tool. If the rear axle is re-installed before the wheel is separated, and the driven flange slides out with it, you can slide the flange back into place easily. Support the wheel, side out the axle, and lower the wheel. Using the axle as an alignment tool can also ease the effort of installing the rear wheel, as you can get the splines lined-up, no problem.
My daddy taught me to work smarter not harder. |
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