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mike72903
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« on: April 27, 2015, 03:53:43 PM » |
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Finally got back to my first rear end maintenance/tire change after company left. Two questions. First the final drive filler bolt is rounded off and can't be removed. Not a problem at the moment as the drive is off and I can just pour the 150ml in to the drain hole. The fill bolt is aluminum. Any recommendation for getting this thing off? Second, when I drained the drive oil it was plenty black. There is a cavity on the end of the drain bolt that was filled with sludge I had to remove. Is that typical? Makes me think the fill bolt got damaged early on in the bikes life and consequently the drive oil never got changed since, if ever. Bike has 68k miles. Is this particularly bad news? Should I keep my eyes open for a replacement final drive? Have not experienced any problem with the final drive, but it makes me worry a bit. For all I know the above discription is typical as I'm a novice at this. After i drained the original oil out I did flush it with new oil and redrained. Thanks for your help.
Mike
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98valk
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« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2015, 04:33:30 PM » |
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Honda puts a moly additive in the factory fill, which will give it a black to dark grey color.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Blaze
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« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2015, 05:39:12 PM » |
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Its aluminum, shouldn't be to hard to get out. Pliers, vise grips, alligator grip, whatever you need to get it out. With the right tool it shouldn't be to difficult. A new one costs less than $10 on ebay.
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sandy
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« Reply #4 on: April 27, 2015, 06:45:15 PM » |
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The drain bolt has a magnet embedded in it to catch metal filings. Clean it off and reinstall it. BTW: It's the same size as the engine oil bolt.
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mike72903
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« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2015, 06:58:45 PM » |
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Thanks, I'll break out the big plumbing tools  what I found in the drain plug cavity wasn't metal filings. It looked like dirty grease. |
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Bighead
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« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2015, 07:16:39 PM » |
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Normal. put a vise grip on that filler plug and get it out and get you a new one.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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mike72903
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« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2015, 09:30:51 PM » |
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That sucker was on there tight  Vice grips couldn't grab firmly because the nut is recessed. Tried and tried. But just kept getting more torn up. The nut finally got rounded off/small enough I could hammer a 12 point 5/8 socket down on it. Used an impact wrench pushing down with all my weight and broke it free. Whew! |
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R J
Member
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2015, 09:54:41 PM » |
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When ya put the new plug in, just snug it up enough that it won't drip oil.
Ya also might put some anti seize stuff on it also.
We used to have a mechanic at the shop that had to run everything in with his impact wrench, then hammer it tight. Next person had to use a chisel to get it loose.
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44 Harley ServiCar   |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #9 on: April 29, 2015, 05:19:17 AM » |
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The filler cap on our final drives are actually re-purposed valve tappet covers that Honda made for some older bikes. I have seen many many of these get over tightened and they are hard to get off. I have also seen many get buggerd up by boneheads using crescent wrenches on them. Don't be a bonehead!
As stated........snug is all you need because there is an o-ring on it.
BTW once the hex head was no longer usable we used a big screwdriver and a hammer to tap the outer edge. You have to make the screwdriver actually cut into the aluminum first then angle it towards the left and tap it loose. Whatever works
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