New I/S Owner with Wiring Question

[allanbegg]

All,

Have owned a '99 I/S for about 2 months now. really like it. Previous bike was a "99 Shadow Tourer, so getting used to the extra size and weight.

I just got a Kuryakyn voltmeter and am looking for a place to wire it up. It's sitting on the top of the handlebar clamp, so pulled the right side of the front fairing and started looking for someplace to splice into a constant voltage. Found a couple of wires that were previously tapped into and thought about using them, until I realized that one of the two was getting pretty warm to the touch.

Not sure how to add pictures to the site yet, so have links to a couple of pictures of the offending area.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Hq6qGzojtCazY1RWgtSHRnOGc/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Hq6qGzojtCZzRzck96dktoWG8/view?usp=sharing

Now that I study the pictures a little more, it appears that someone bypassed a connector, as there are two clipped wires on either side of the black connector block.

For the moment, I need to know which circuit the white with black stripe is for, as that's the one getting warm.

Thanks in advance, Allan

[salty1]

Allan congrats on purchasing a great ride!     AND welcome to the asylum. I have just purchased the same vote meter to install on my IS so I'm curious what input you get. I mounted this same meter on my Standard and ran the wiring back to an auxiallry fuse block that's powered off the battery. I want to avoid getting into a circuit that could cause a draw reducing actual battery voltage readings.

[WintrSol]

For the moment, I need to know which circuit the white with black stripe is for, as that's the one getting warm.

Thanks in advance, Allan

The only White/Black wire I can find on the I/S schematic is between the Lo headlight relay and the headlamps.

[gordonv]

I've spent a little time looking over the service manual PDF, but it's not clear enough. Looking for that black 9 pin connector.

But looking over your pictures, it looks like the wire has been cut from the male and female end, and the connector bypassed and the leads wired directly together.

Is there any extras with the bike outside of OEM, like extra driving lights, that would make us feel that there is some wrong wiring done on your bike, accounting for the leads to over heat, melt and needing repairs?

[allanbegg]

There are no accessories on it. It's very stock with one exception.
Mounted on the upper part of the right side fairing, there is a switch.
When I took the right side fairing off, I found that it has nothing attached to it. No wires or anything.

Gordonv, you are correct. The wire that is getting warm has been spliced back together. I can see the outline of, and feel the 1/4" disconnect terminals under the heat shrink tubing. My concern is that the wiring at one end of the disconnect gets warm under that heat shrink tubing.

I guess I need to cut it all out and rewire it (minus the disconnects).

If I switch to the high beam and the white/black wire does not get warm, that will confirm the function of the circuit.

Thanks all.
Allan

[Pete]

Heat in a circuit usually means: RESISTANCE

loose connection
wire gauge to small
resistance in the connection cause be dirt, oxidation, etc.

Check the wire gauge
clean the connection
solder the connection

[BobB]

I don't have an Interstate, but I believe one only thing that would draw that much current would be the headlights.  You could verify that by pulling the fuse.  I am certain that the prior owner had problems with the terminal connection within the connector and routed around it.  I'm also thinking that if the wires are hot, the PO may have installed higher wattage headlight bulbs.  I use a 90/100, off road, bulb in my Tourer. 

[gordonv]

I don't have an Interstate, but I believe one only thing that would draw that much current would be the headlights.  You could verify that by pulling the fuse.  I am certain that the prior owner had problems with the terminal connection within the connector and routed around it.  I'm also thinking that if the wires are hot, the PO may have installed higher wattage headlight bulbs.  I use a 90/100, off road, bulb in my Tourer. 

The thought of a other than stock size bulb was my next thought if the wire turns out to be for the head lights.

Also easy to check. Remove and inspect. DON'T touch the bulb with your fingers, wear gloves. I even go so far in my house to wash new bulbs with soapy water, dry, and install, for these high heat G10 bulbs. Some where burning out in a month, and they have a long life. Not any longer.

[PhredValk]

I have an IS as well and used a circuit tester to find a wire inside the right side panel that was only hot with the key on. I tapped into that wire to trigger a relay that is powered directly from the battery (with fused wire) attached to a small piece of 1/4 plywood with an 8 point fuse panel. It fits nice and snug in the slot for the manual and tool kit in the battery box under the seat.

I now use that fuse panel to power my Ipod, GPS, cig lighter, volt meter, Danmark fuel shutoff, and a couple of power points that I can use to recharge my phone etc. In future I plan on using it to power an amplifier, power point in the trunk, and cruise control.

Simple to install on any Valk and endless possibilities...
Fred.