WHAT is the trick

[old2soon]

hint supplication for getting the new U-joint boot back on? Back first then front or vice versa? I have a wetting agent and the front goes on easy. The back-swing arm side-on the other hand is cause for a wee mite of concern and large slugs from the wine bottle! Old arthritic fingers that are NOWHERE near as nimble as they used ta was!  MAYBE it's just my day fer that boot to kick my butt.  As always-T I A for any and all help.  RIDE SAFE.

[Chrisj CMA]

The key is turning the aft end of the boot inside out...push it up close and flip the end over right side out.  Then do the front

[The emperor has no clothes]

Definitely do the back first. But there ain't nothing easy about it. I think the next time I have to do it I'm going to bribe my grandson to do it with his small hands.

[longrider]

Be sure and raise the swing arm up at least level or higher.  The top will be much easier to get started and a pair of needle nose pliers to gently pull the tab down.  I use straight dish soap as lubricant.  It took me about five minutes last Tuesday to install the u-joint and boot once the final was removed

warren

[RainMaker]

Do the back side first, getting the edges on one side and then rotating the boot until it pops on.  Not that it just "pops" on. May take 1, 2 or 54 tries. Apply liberal amounts of cursing between attempts.  Front goes on much easier afterwards.

[John Schmidt]

Dennis, I'm told you have to speak in tongues. Supposed to make a huge difference, doesn't help get the boot on though.   

I have a set of long (15" maybe) needle nose, one with a 45 deg. end on it. Raise the swingarm to level then grab the tabs and pull/push the boot on. Use plenty of lube as suggested, when done be sure to go to church Sunday.  You'll need it.   

[Jess from VA]

When I did it, there was not room/clearance for the boot to go on the top of the swingarm doubled or rolled up.  Clearance on top was very tight.

Yes the swingarm needs to be level, but awhile back someone posted a pic of using a ratchet strap around under the lower end of the swingarm and over the seat.  I think maybe cranking the strap so tight you get the front of the swingarm tilted down as low as possible may allow better clearance on top the swingarm to get the boot over it easier.

Last time I did it, I tried using dowels to push it down over the swingarm and it worked (after about 4 hours), but I tore it slightly.  I repaired the tear with liquid electrical tape, and hopefully it has not been letting water in. (Added a new car tire a while back and everything looked OK.)  

I believe I have a new boot, but need to check, cause having an extra is a real good idea, and new ones are supposed to be easier to get on.

That or maybe one of those ribbed Trojans.    

[The emperor has no clothes]

That or maybe one of those ribbed Trojans.    

  You haven't been using KY on the boot have you ?

[old2soon]

Dennis, I'm told you have to speak in tongues. Supposed to make a huge difference, doesn't help get the boot on though.   

I have a set of long (15" maybe) needle nose, one with a 45 deg. end on it. Raise the swingarm to level then grab the tabs and pull/push the boot on. Use plenty of lube as suggested, when done be sure to go to church Sunday.  You'll need it.   

   Well John it was hot and humid here today and I ran out of patience.   Ran out of wine also.   Gonna hit it fresh in the A M after breakfast and coffee.   I just KNEW it weren't no how no way gonna be even a hint of easy.   BUT my brother and I agree-mucho better in my shop then in the middle of B F E with NO lift.   The new boot is fairly soft and flexible compared to the old one. I can feel the play in the old U-joint just by twisting with my hands.   Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions Chrisj CMA gonna give that inside out approach a whirl.   P-cup is wet with oil and my bearings are quiet. When I put her on the lift before disassembly I put her in gear and rocked the wheel-bad noise from the U-joint area.   Just wish my hands stayed as flexible as they were when I wrenched on aircraft in the 60s. RIDE SAFE.

[fudgie]

I get the sides or bottom on first then I turn the boot and 'screw' it on. I do the rear first and then do the engine side. Long needle nose helps.

[DK]

I got mine on using a cotter key puller. ( the screwdriver handle with the "curlycue" pointed tip)

Round off the sharp end so as to not pierce the boot.

The puller "rolls" the front edge of the boot onto/into the retainer recess sort of like mounting a bicycle tire.

This is a really handy tool to have. I seldom use it for cotter keys. Lengthened, it makes a really good meat hook for the smoker.

Dan

[da prez]

  Years ago when we started re-building calibers, we had a tool that expanded the dust boot. The new seals (O-rings)  would be put in and then the boot. ( the piston locked the boot in ) We then would use the tool to open the boot and push the piston in. I asked the toolman if they still made them. He is going to check. I posted this before looking to see if they are still around. I think it would make simple work of it.

                                                      da prez