Using oil

[WintrSol]

Which is more likely in these engines, valve stem seals, or rings? I seem to be using nearly 1 quart every few hundred miles or so, which is a lot - too much.

[Red Diamond]

This statement probably won't help you with your problem of oil consumption, but unless you have a Valkyrie that has been terribly abused or neglected, there is nothing likely about rings or valve guide seals that would cause high oil usage. These engines are quite bullet proof and there are some pretty high mileage ones that are still running great at 200K and above. A friend of mine has 185K miles on his and it performs just like my 40K mile I/S. Rings and valve seals don't just suddenly go bad.

[BonS]

I witnessed high oil consumption in my friends Valkyrie with about 25K miles. I could definitely see puffs of smoke after he'd decelerate using his engine and accelerate again. We replaced his valve stem seals. His oil consumption ceased and I've ridden behind him since and there's not a trace of smoke. He reports no oil consumption.

[WintrSol]

I witnessed high oil consumption in my friends Valkyrie with about 25K miles. I could definitely see puffs of smoke after he'd decelerate using his engine and accelerate again. We replaced his valve stem seals. His oil consumption ceased and I've ridden behind him since and there's not a trace of smoke. He reports no oil consumption.

Thanks for that - this one has 39600 miles, and seems to use more oil when on the side stand. I looked in the service manual, and replacing the seals is not a cakewalk without special tools. May have to take it to a shop. Anyone in the St. Louis, MO area that can recommend a reliable one?

[97BLKVALK]

Do a search  there was a post sometime in 2015 how to do the stem seal replacement with a drilled out spark plug and compressed air to hold the valves in place.

Good luck.

Keep us up to date how everything progresses.

Michael

[gordonv]

Like BonS reminded me, for engines, you need to observe the exhaust for blue smoke (oil).

Smokes on acceleration, rings.

Smokes on deceleration, valve stem seals.

Only loose oil on driving, nothing dripping from underneath the bike? It should be blowing out blue smoke almost all the time if you are going through that much.

[DK]

How do your plugs look?

Are all cylinders the same, or is the oil being burned from particular cylinders?

Crankcase ventilation?

Did the excessive oil consumption suddenly occur?

Dan

[Patrick]

A Qt every couple hundred miles is a lot, more than I would think could be for seals or guides.

How long have you had this monster ?

What oil are you using ?

How are you checking the oil ?

I know these seem like dumb questions, but, had to ask.

[98valk]

ditto on what oil are u using.

also many have had great success using http://www.auto-rx.com/ to clean up valve seals

[Bagger John - #3785]

Have you run a compression test (additionally, a leakdown test) on all 6 cylinders yet?

Low compression in one or more + fast leakdown = your culprit....rings. Engine should be disassembled and inspected for signs of cylinder wall scoring. Hone and fit new rings as required. If scoring won't hone out because it's too deep, a rebore and oversize pistons/rings are required.

Conversely, a buildup of gummed or burnt oil on the back sides of the valve heads and stems indicates a possible stem seal failure or worn valve guides.

If I was doing this and it turned out to be valve related, the heads would come off the bike and new valves, guides and stems fitted wherever excessive wear or defects are noted. Otherwise, if you just replace the seals you will probably end up repeating the process.

[WintrSol]

I don't know what oil was in it when I brought it home five weeks ago, but I've been topping up with Amsoil 10W40 MC oil. No visible leaks, and riding behind I didn't see any smoke, which is odd for such a large amount. It did blow some smoke when starting, after getting hot while adjusting the pilot screws while on the side stand, so extra heat did seem to make a difference; with a boxer, that doesn't distinguish rings from seals. The plugs were changed after the first top-up, two quarts, and they look normal, no visible oiling. I followed it around while my friend rode it around town, and didn't notice anything, not the typical smoke after going down a hill then hitting throttle at the bottom, or anything on relatively hard acceleration. I think most of the oil must be going out at highway speeds. I'll be doing a compression test this weekend, but it starts and runs with even fire on all six. With the amount of oil lost, I should be seeing something, but none of the normal signals are there. I've never had a boxer engine before, so don't know why it doesn't smoke around town, but still has used 3 quarts in 600 miles.

[98valk]

topping up?

are u using the correct oil level check/procedure per the owner's manual?
maybe over filling it?

[gordonv]

With no smoke, and clean plugs, then you aren't burning oil through the engine.

I feel you must be leaking it somewhere, and somehow. How would you find this other than parking in exactly the same spot and inspecting the ground when you move. But I think it's spitting it out while high speed driving.

[WintrSol]

The PO installed an after-market, chromed, dip-stick, marked to be read while on the side stand. He included the stock one in the parts bin, and I compared them by checking the level with the stock one with the bike upright, then with the chrome one while on the side stand. Both read full with the same amount of oil. After some miles, the level drops pretty much the same on either stick, so, top-up.

Any guesses how/where oil can be sprayed, without it getting on the bike and dripping when parked? There is no oil spray on the belly tank, and the side covers and saddle bags stay clean; plug is in the crankcase vent drain. This is the oddest oil leak I've encountered, and I've seen a few over the years.

[Valker]

The PO installed an after-market, chromed, dip-stick, marked to be read while on the side stand. He included the stock one in the parts bin, and I compared them by checking the level with the stock one with the bike upright, then with the chrome one while on the side stand. Both read full with the same amount of oil. After some miles, the level drops pretty much the same on either stick, so, top-up.

Any guesses how/where oil can be sprayed, without it getting on the bike and dripping when parked? There is no oil spray on the belly tank, and the side covers and saddle bags stay clean; plug is in the crankcase vent drain. This is the oddest oil leak I've encountered, and I've seen a few over the years.

There is probably your problem. No dipstick is made to check the oil while the bike is on the sidestand! It is probably being overfilled badly and ridding itself of the excess while riding. Drain it, replace the filter, then add 4 qts ONLY of oil. That is full. Now check the dipstick and adjust the dipstick, NOT the oil. Proper procedure is bike level, dipstick NOT screwed in.

[desertrefugee]

+1, +1, +1   This ^^^^^  !!!

[Patrick]

Oil checked with bike upright and stick NOT screwed in.

[longrider]

I have the chrome dipstick.  As others have mentioned drain oil and replace filter, add 4 quarts of oil.  
I just finished moving all of the chrome from my 99 (109k M) to a new to me  2000 with 8770 M on it.  When I changed oil this time I checked when I was finished as it's a new bike to me.  Started the bike to fill oil filter and then let it sit for a few minutes and had the bike standing straight up and inserted chrome dipstick (best would be to use oem stick first time for you as I've seen aftermarket dipsticks that are incorrectly marked)  The oil measured about 1/8 in over the full mark.  This has been true for all three valks I've owned.  If the bike is severely overfilled it WILL push it out

warren

[WintrSol]

Yeah, you are correct. When I picked up the bike, I noticed the chrome stick was longer than the stock one, and the PO assured me that was so it read correctly on the side stand. I just checked, no oil on the chrome stick, so I stood it up and inserted the stock one - way over full. I drew out 1-1/2 quarts to get it to the full mark on the stock stick, and, upright, it reads about 1/2qt full on the chrome one. I like the chrome, so I laid them side-by-side and marked the chrome stick at the stock locations, measured from the threads.

I just have to wonder if the PO kept it over-filled, kept it 1/2qt low by measuring the correct way, or knew it was off and topped it to the 'a bit over' spot.

[98valk]

if yours is this one download their instructions

http://www.teltru.com/s-95-honda-motorcycles.aspx

[Firefighter]

Years ago I overhauled a Ford 8N tractor. The tractor was blowing oil out the blow by pipe. Did the same thing with the new rings. Finally after reading an old manual, realized we had the wrong dipstick and were putting several quarts too much oil. Wont forget that one!  Firefighter

[art]

The Valkyrie is probably the easiest vehicle ever made for removing the heads. I have done it twice and it's a piece of cake. Just remember not to rotate the engine while the cams are off, it's a interference engine and valve timing is critical. You can inspect the valves and replace the valve bushings. Total cost is for head gaskets ,bushings and exhaust gaskets. The stealer will charge lots of money and Do a questionable job. If you do it don't forget to torque the heads twice. The second time after you ride for around 100 miles.  Been there done that.