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Author Topic: Fork Seals That don't  (Read 3469 times)
papa bear
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Posts: 24


« on: September 01, 2009, 01:16:39 PM »

I changed both fork seals 4 months ago and the left started leaking again after I bottomed out on a dip. So I changed it last week and it is still leaking. Not bad, but enough to coat the front of the timing belt cover. Any suggestions as to what may becausing this? And how to stop it. Did not see anything wrong with the fork when I had it off. Thanks forany help.  Phil 
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junior
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new hampshire


« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2009, 01:32:18 PM »

did you polish your fork tube before assembling them and lube the seal?
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papa bear
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« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2009, 01:50:31 PM »

Yes I lubed and cleaned everything. I remember the right one was hard to get in and the left wasn't. I'm looking at the old seal and the manual, and the manual says to install it with the marked side toward the axle. But that puts the tapered side of the seal down. Can't tell by the pic in manual. If that is the way it goes in then it is upside down. That puts the side with the raised ridge on the seal going in first. Maybe that is why the right one was so hard to get in. Thanks for the reply. Still looking for more info. Thanks. Phil
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junior
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new hampshire


« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2009, 02:24:40 PM »

any of the fork seals that i have changed was a doubble lipped seal and i went out to look at mine and the seal springs are showing
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Earl in Pensacola
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« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2009, 03:10:14 PM »

When I had mine changed, the right one started leaking almost right away.  The tech said he wasn't surprised!!  He said that he knew that he should have called me and told me to go get new inner and outer bushings.  He just figured that even though they showed wear, he figured they'd last thru at least one more set of seals.  Wrong!  Those were the original bushings and had 180K on them.  He redid the job at no charge and no leak.  Another two cents
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DFragn
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« Reply #5 on: September 01, 2009, 03:20:38 PM »

Sometimes. Not Always. One or both leg seals can ever so slightly leak. This can be caused by stiction which is caused by misaligned fork tubes.
It could also be a bad install.
Simplest thing to do first is check alignment, nothing needs to be removed to do that!

Here's a earlier thread that contains info on checking and re-aligning fork tubes if necessary. Maybe it's worth checking, especially if the tubes have been removed & reinstalled.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,7488.0.html
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Steve K (IA)
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Posts: 1662

Cedar Rapids, Iowa


« Reply #6 on: September 01, 2009, 04:01:22 PM »

Yes I lubed and cleaned everything. I remember the right one was hard to get in and the left wasn't. I'm looking at the old seal and the manual, and the manual says to install it with the marked side toward the axle. But that puts the tapered side of the seal down. Can't tell by the pic in manual. If that is the way it goes in then it is upside down. That puts the side with the raised ridge on the seal going in first. Maybe that is why the right one was so hard to get in. Thanks for the reply. Still looking for more info. Thanks. Phil


That is correct.  The edge with the raised ridge gets pressed into the leg.  The taper faces down.  Believe me, I done this twice because I put the oil seals in upside down.  Took a 1500 mile ride to Michigan and back and had one hell of an oily mess to clean beside having to take it all apart again...an Interstate.

« Last Edit: September 01, 2009, 04:04:09 PM by Steve K (IA) » Logged


States I Have Ridden In
Slvrvalk1
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Posts: 183



« Reply #7 on: September 01, 2009, 08:00:27 PM »

It is worthwhile to change the fork bushings whenever you have a fork seal leak.  If the bushings are worn, the sliders do not move in a straight direction so the seals leak.  Since you have the fork apart to change the seals, it is easy to change the bushings.

Dave
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woefman
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Arizona


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« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2009, 01:04:21 AM »

It is worthwhile to change the fork bushings whenever you have a fork seal leak.  If the bushings are worn, the sliders do not move in a straight direction so the seals leak.  Since you have the fork apart to change the seals, it is easy to change the bushings.

Dave

And they are cheap. My GL1800 were only like 3 bucks ea with Tax
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #9 on: September 02, 2009, 03:03:00 AM »

any of the fork seals that i have changed was a doubble lipped seal and i went out to look at mine and the seal springs are showing

The thing you can see on the outside is just the dust seal.....the oil seal is not visible
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papa bear
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« Reply #10 on: September 02, 2009, 06:39:17 AM »

Steve K. Thanks for the pic. Now I know it is in upside down. I'll fix it today. Too bad Honda can't put a good pic like that in the manual.  Thanks again. You guys always come though in a pinch.  Phil
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PAVALKER
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Retired Navy 22YOS, 2014 Valkyrie , VRCC# 27213

Pittsburgh, Pa


« Reply #11 on: September 02, 2009, 10:55:41 PM »

Ok... what is this Bushing you are speaking of here.  Which number....   One is Bush Slider (10) and one is Bush Guide (9)....

09     BUSH, GUIDE   51414-MT7-003    002    $13.09
10    BUSH, SLIDER  51415-MCH-003  (replaces 51415-KZ3-701)    002    $6.15


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John                           
PAVALKER
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Retired Navy 22YOS, 2014 Valkyrie , VRCC# 27213

Pittsburgh, Pa


« Reply #12 on: September 03, 2009, 12:52:15 PM »

Well I got both forks off and took one apart and yes, the bushings should have been ordered as well.   So they are on order now. 

Has anyone noticed the different colors of fork fluids in the tube?  I had Red transmission fluid on the right and brown oil on the left.  Had the same thing with my VTX.
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John                           
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