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jimijbf
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« on: July 08, 2015, 01:04:00 PM » |
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Hey everybody,
I have a loud clunk, that sounds like gear lash coming from the rear of the Valk. I've read all the post from everyone on the subject, but none of them seem like my problem. I have 86k on her and have her torn down to the output shaft. everything seems tight except for the output shaft has some play in it when it's in gear. Is this normal? I seemed to start having this problem after coming up a very bumpy road under power (ok, a lot of power).
Any advice would be helpful.
Oh, and I am planning on changing the rubber dampers in the rear wheel, even though they seem fine.
Thanks,
Jim
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da prez
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« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2015, 01:41:56 PM » |
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You are that close , pull the U-joint. Check everything in the drive line. Sounds like the Joint.
da prez
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jimijbf
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« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2015, 02:20:26 PM » |
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I've already pulled the u-joint. It looks brand new.
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Bighead
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« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2015, 04:44:10 PM » |
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Put the U joint in a vice and see if there is any play when torquing it from side to side. It can look new and not be new.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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jimijbf
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« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2015, 06:45:10 PM » |
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I checked the u-joint when I first tore it apart. That is what I thought my problem was, but its tight. That is why I was wondering about the output shaft. The final drive is tight too. I know there is a damper lifter and damper spring on the output shaft. I was wondering how much "play" it should have. As I stated before, I'm going to replace the rubber dampers in the rear wheel and see if that may be my problem. I would sure hate to have to tear the back end of my motor apart to replace the output shaft damper lifter and/or spring (or split the block to replace other gears...of course, that would be a good time to put the Overdrive Gear Set I've had for a decade in...lol).
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2015, 06:52:44 PM » |
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I don't recall you said anything about the condition of the pinion cup. ???
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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jimijbf
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« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2015, 06:53:19 PM » |
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One more question. What does everyone refer to as the "pinion cup"? Is that the "pinion joint" that everyone talks about?
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Bighead
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« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2015, 07:23:29 PM » |
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Final drive gear?
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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Tfrank59
Member
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2015, 07:28:15 PM » |
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I checked the u-joint when I first tore it apart. That is what I thought my problem was, but its tight. That is why I was wondering about the output shaft. The final drive is tight too. I know there is a damper lifter and damper spring on the output shaft. I was wondering how much "play" it should have. As I stated before, I'm going to replace the rubber dampers in the rear wheel and see if that may be my problem. I would sure hate to have to tear the back end of my motor apart to replace the output shaft damper lifter and/or spring (or split the block to replace other gears...of course, that would be a good time to put the Overdrive Gear Set I've had for a decade in...lol).
Have you looked at the dampers? – that's where a lot of backlash can come from if they're all worn. You said you planned on replacing them, but you didn't say what kind of condition they're in, unless you haven't looked yet. |
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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Firefighter
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« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2015, 07:34:56 PM » |
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The dampers helped mine and yes there is rotational play in the output shaft, can't remember how much, but with the engine in gear the output shaft can be rotated back and forth.
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
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jimijbf
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« Reply #11 on: July 09, 2015, 08:10:07 PM » |
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Tfrank, Yes, I have checked the wheel dampers. All seems fine, but with 86k on it. I may as well change them.
meathead, Thanks, You are referring to the pinion joint. All that seemed tight as does the ring and pinion on the final drive. I will check the driveshaft and pinion joint closer though. I did notice the oil seal on it came off when I removed the final drive unit.
firefighter, Thanks, I thought there should be some movement on the output shaft damper lifter and final driven gear. It maybe around a 1/4" if that.
I guess I need to look at a few things a little closer.
Thanks for the help! I'll let you all know what I find...
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #12 on: July 09, 2015, 08:18:32 PM » |
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Tfrank, Yes, I have checked the wheel dampers. All seems fine, but with 86k on it. I may as well change them.
meathead, Thanks, You are referring to the pinion joint. All that seemed tight as does the ring and pinion on the final drive. I will check the driveshaft and pinion joint closer though. I did notice the oil seal on it came off when I removed the final drive unit.
firefighter, Thanks, I thought there should be some movement on the output shaft damper lifter and final driven gear. It maybe around a 1/4" if that.
I guess I need to look at a few things a little closer.
Thanks for the help! I'll let you all know what I find...
I'm not sure I understand. The oil seal should stay on the driveshaft. |
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jimijbf
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« Reply #13 on: July 10, 2015, 11:44:48 AM » |
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Yes, the oil seal for the drive shaft was on the shaft when I took it apart. It just wasn't seated. But, it does look like the drive shaft and pinion joint (cup) are bad. I haven't been able to get the drive shaft off (yet...hehehe). It appears to be spun a bit in the "cup".
Thanks for all the advice ! I knew my Valkyrie brothers would help out.
Ordering parts today.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #14 on: July 10, 2015, 11:59:16 AM » |
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Yes, the oil seal for the drive shaft was on the shaft when I took it apart. It just wasn't seated. But, it does look like the drive shaft and pinion joint (cup) are bad. I haven't been able to get the drive shaft off (yet...hehehe). It appears to be spun a bit in the "cup".
Thanks for all the advice ! I knew my Valkyrie brothers would help out.
Ordering parts today.
Its kind weird how it comes off. There is a clip on the driveshaft that keeps it in place. Grasp the shaft and pull up and down while rotating it a little. Have something padded to catch the differential when it comes loose. |
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Joe Hummer
Member
Posts: 1645
VRCC #25677 VRCC Missouri State Representative
Arnold, MO
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« Reply #15 on: July 10, 2015, 12:04:30 PM » |
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Yes, the oil seal for the drive shaft was on the shaft when I took it apart. It just wasn't seated. But, it does look like the drive shaft and pinion joint (cup) are bad. I haven't been able to get the drive shaft off (yet...hehehe). It appears to be spun a bit in the "cup".
Thanks for all the advice ! I knew my Valkyrie brothers would help out.
Ordering parts today.
Its kind weird how it comes off. There is a clip on the driveshaft that keeps it in place. Grasp the shaft and pull up and down while rotating it a little. Have something padded to catch the differential when it comes loose. If you see red in or around the shaft/cup...you can use a BFH (Big F'n Hammer) to remove the shaft from the cup. If there is red...that means rust...and you are going to have to replace the cup anyway. Freaked out some friends when I done this to another friend's bike. Couldn't get it out any other way because of the rust. Usually you can pull/twist the shaft and get the ring to line up enough to slip the shaft out of the cup. Joe |
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
You pay for the whole bike, why not use it Jerry Motorman Palladino
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jimijbf
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« Reply #16 on: July 10, 2015, 01:20:50 PM » |
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BFH protocol had to be initiated. Hopefully nothing in the final drive was hurt (I did have a heavy sweatshirt under it. I was more worried about the hammering on the internal parts).
I ordered everything from the u-joint back to the pinion joint (cap), except for the drive shaft clip and spring. Plus, I ordered the rear wheel rubber dampers, the little metal inserts for the rubber dampers, O-rings and Thrust washer for rear wheel.
I bought the old girl brand new in 1999, so I guess I can put some money and love back into her.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #17 on: July 10, 2015, 02:45:58 PM » |
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BFH protocol had to be initiated. Hopefully nothing in the final drive was hurt (I did have a heavy sweatshirt under it. I was more worried about the hammering on the internal parts).
I ordered everything from the u-joint back to the pinion joint (cap), except for the drive shaft clip and spring. Plus, I ordered the rear wheel rubber dampers, the little metal inserts for the rubber dampers, O-rings and Thrust washer for rear wheel.
I bought the old girl brand new in 1999, so I guess I can put some money and love back into her.
if its not too late to change your order. You can get the dampeners for the I/S that have the metal molded into them. They are a little cheaper and its said they perform better. |
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #18 on: July 10, 2015, 05:49:12 PM » |
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BFH protocol had to be initiated. Hopefully nothing in the final drive was hurt (I did have a heavy sweatshirt under it. I was more worried about the hammering on the internal parts).
I ordered everything from the u-joint back to the pinion joint (cap), except for the drive shaft clip and spring. Plus, I ordered the rear wheel rubber dampers, the little metal inserts for the rubber dampers, O-rings and Thrust washer for rear wheel.
I bought the old girl brand new in 1999, so I guess I can put some money and love back into her.
if its not too late to change your order. You can get the dampeners for the I/S that have the metal molded into them. They are a little cheaper and its said they perform better. Sorry to hear your shaft spun in the pinion cup. Your initial description sounded like that was the case. I agree you should get the IS if possible. Glad your on the road to recovery.  |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A |
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jimijbf
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« Reply #19 on: July 11, 2015, 05:03:54 AM » |
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I'll check on the IS dampers. I don't think anything has shipped yet. The email I received said the ship date is the 15th of July.
I tried to post pictures of the shaft and joint, but couldn't get it to work.
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #20 on: July 11, 2015, 11:11:18 AM » |
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I'll check on the IS dampers. I don't think anything has shipped yet. The email I received said the ship date is the 15th of July.
I tried to post pictures of the shaft and joint, but couldn't get it to work.
Keep trying on the dampers and the pics. We all learn a lot in these kind of situations and pics help illustrate the problem you encountered. |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A |
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Steve K (IA)
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« Reply #21 on: July 13, 2015, 11:28:50 AM » |
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BFH protocol had to be initiated. Hopefully nothing in the final drive was hurt (I did have a heavy sweatshirt under it. I was more worried about the hammering on the internal parts).
I ordered everything from the u-joint back to the pinion joint (cap), except for the drive shaft clip and spring. Plus, I ordered the rear wheel rubber dampers, the little metal inserts for the rubber dampers, O-rings and Thrust washer for rear wheel.
I bought the old girl brand new in 1999, so I guess I can put some money and love back into her.
if its not too late to change your order. You can get the dampeners for the I/S that have the metal molded into them. They are a little cheaper and its said they perform better. The dampers are A LOT cheaper if you order the ones for a 2000 I/S. Here is how it breaks down...if your buying for a '97 Std. The metal inserts......$52 the rubber parts......$77 equals $129 Dampers for a 2000 I/S come complete...rubber dampers with the aluminum inserts molded in...... $32.75 for the whole set. I learned this the hard way.  |
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 States I Have Ridden In |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #22 on: July 13, 2015, 12:20:31 PM » |
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Damn that is a lot of difference. Luckily I had read about them on here before and bought a couple sets of IS's.
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jimijbf
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« Reply #23 on: September 04, 2015, 07:57:08 AM » |
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Hey Everyone,
I know it's been awhile. I was sent out of town for work... I just wanted to thank you all for your help. The old girl is back on the road again. I did get the Interstate wheel dampers and it took over 4 weeks to get my drive shaft ! I'm not sure if I'll use Partzilla again. Horrible customer service and slow delivery. Cheaper isn't always better. I've had better luck with MR Cycles and Bike Bandit. All that being said, I'm happy I'm back with the "Air in My Hair" again.
Your all the best !!! Just like our bikes !!!
Thanks and Ride Safe,
Jim
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