technical question / rear tire change

[Wewaman]

 how long is the piece of steel (hole to hole) that is used to replace the left side shock for axel removal? 

Thanks,

Wewa

[hubcapsc]

how long is the piece of steel (hole to hole) that is used to replace the left side shock for axel removal? 

Thanks,

Wewa

Variable length 

[Icelander]

I just used a ratchet strap.

Icelander

[Jess from VA]

The easy answer is the size of your shocks (also measured eye to eye; OE is 13"), but many things will work.

[Jess from VA]

The easy answer is the size of your shocks (also measured eye to eye; OE is 13"), but many things will work.

The shocks are too long, the goal is to raise the swing arm so the axle comes out above the exhaust.

Ahhh, yes.  Whoops. 

I just lower it on the jack to the right height (with shocks off).

[Cracker Jack]

I'm too dumb to post a picture. What I do is use a small cable (1/8-3/16") to limit the swing arm down travel. Don't want or need to limit the up travel. Go buy a 2' piece of cable and two clamps from Lowes or similar and make eyes on each end to roughly match the length of the shock, length not critical. Then as Jess does, I just lower the jack enough to raise the wheel to remove the axel. Then raise the bike to remove the wheel.

When you get through, just put the cable with the tools for use the next time.

[Daniel Meyer]

Ratchet strap across the frame (where the seat was). Easily adjustable so you can also service (and reinstall) the rear end.

[Wewaman]

AWESOME

Thanks,
  Tony

[The emperor has no clothes]

Ratchet strap across the frame (where the seat was). Easily adjustable so you can also service (and reinstall) the rear end.

so much easier and quicker this way 

[Tailgate Tommy]

I raise the bike up on a sears MC jack then I use the ratchet strap as well. Then a small floor jack under the tire to raise the swing arm up and down. I'm not as young and strong as Daniel so I can't just hoist the wheel and tire up there with shear arm strength 

[Cracker Jack]

I'm too dumb to post a picture. What I do is use a small cable (1/8-3/16") to limit the swing arm down travel. Don't want or need to limit the up travel. Go buy a 2' piece of cable and two clamps from Lowes or similar and make eyes on each end to roughly match the length of the shock, length not critical. Then as Jess does, I just lower the jack enough to raise the wheel to remove the axel. Then raise the bike to remove the wheel.

When you get through, just put the cable with the tools for use the next time.

PLEASE do it my way! It is clearly superior to the other advice/suggestions on this thread. Then come back and post how well it worked.

[Chrisj CMA]

I'm too dumb to post a picture. What I do is use a small cable (1/8-3/16") to limit the swing arm down travel. Don't want or need to limit the up travel. Go buy a 2' piece of cable and two clamps from Lowes or similar and make eyes on each end to roughly match the length of the shock, length not critical. Then as Jess does, I just lower the jack enough to raise the wheel to remove the axel. Then raise the bike to remove the wheel.

When you get through, just put the cable with the tools for use the next time.

PLEASE do it my way! It is clearly superior to the other advice/suggestions on this thread. Then come back and post how well it worked.

The best way is how you like......do whatever works for you.

[Tfrank59]

Yeah, I made up a metal strap to replace the shocks before the first time I pulled my rear wheel and didn't end up using it.    I like to lower the wheel (shocks off) with a floor jack below the pipes to pull the axle out that way.  I guess most guys like to raise the wheel above the pipes--less strain on the u-joint.  I don't let the weight of the wheel hang on the u-joint, so I guess it's not a bad way to do it--works for me.  Next time I'll probably try the strap over the seat (frame) method to hold the swing arm and the floor jack for the wheel (to reinstall).

[RonW]

Can the swingarm be jacked up too high? I know you only have to lift the swingarm til the rear axle clears the mufflers. I bought a scissor jack the kind used for spare tires becuz it was cumbersome lifting the swingarm using a ratchet strap to get the rear axle positioned above the mufflers (rear shocks removed). Lifted bike up with the motorbike/ATV lift to relieve some weight on the rear shocks and removed the rear shocks. Then elevated the swingarm using the scissor jack so that the rear tire was about 6-8 inches off the floor.

Shoved a stack of 2 x 6's under the rear tire locking it at that height while still allowing the bike/frame to move down pass the stationary rear wheel. Shocks removed. With the rear tire chocked at that height, I removed the scissor jack from under the swingarm since it wasn't needed anymore. Lowered the motorbike/ATV jack. The bike on the lift dropped while the rear wheel remained stationary such that the rear axle cleared the top of the mufflers.

However since the foot pedal on the motorbike/ATV jack isn't easy to control, the bike dropped until the swingarm bottom out or topped out against the frame or something before I could release the elevator button. It's been cautioned not to let the swingarm drop too much ..... angle the driveshaft too steeply ..... to avoid inadvertantly damaging the u-joint. Well, can you shove the swingarm up at too steep an angle? Will the undercarriage stop this from happening but in the process will the jolt damage the swingarm or u-joint?

On this occasion, perhaps the rear tire hit the underside of the rear fender limiting the swing of the swingarm. I've never had all of the rear fender off the frame so I'm not familiar with the geometry.

[Chrisj CMA]

Can the swingarm be jacked up too high? I know you only have to lift the swingarm til the rear axle clears the mufflers. I bought a scissor jack the kind used for spare tires becuz it was cumbersome lifting the swingarm using a ratchet strap to get the rear axle positioned above the mufflers (rear shocks removed). Lifted bike up with the motorbike/ATV lift to relieve some weight on the rear shocks and removed the rear shocks. Then elevated the swingarm using the scissor jack so that the rear tire was about 6-8 inches off the floor.

Shoved a stack of 2 x 6's under the rear tire locking it at that height while still allowing the bike/frame to move down pass the stationary rear wheel. Shocks removed. With the rear tire chocked at that height, I removed the scissor jack from under the swingarm since it wasn't needed anymore. Lowered the motorbike/ATV jack. The bike on the lift dropped while the rear wheel remained stationary such that the rear axle cleared the top of the mufflers.

However since the foot pedal on the motorbike/ATV jack isn't easy to control, the bike dropped until the swingarm bottom out or topped out against the frame or something before I could release the elevator button. It's been cautioned not to let the swingarm drop too much ..... angle the driveshaft too steeply ..... to avoid inadvertantly damaging the u-joint. Well, can you shove the swingarm up at too steep an angle? Will the undercarriage stop this from happening but in the process will the jolt damage the swingarm or u-joint?

On this occasion, perhaps the rear tire hit the underside of the rear fender limiting the swing  of the swingarm. I've never had all of the rear fender off the frame so I'm not familiar with the geometry.

You're alright, its not the angle when lowering, its the weight resting on the ujoint.

[RonW]

okay.

[Wewaman]

made a replica of Chrisj 

[Wewaman]

I Copied Chrisj's flat bar only mine is Black to match my Valk.   

Thanks,
  Tony

[Chrisj CMA]

I Copied Chrisj's flat bar only mine is Black to match my Valk.   

Thanks,
  Tony

Hope it helps you.......I wouldn't want you to think this is the only way to get er done, it is just how I do it

[Bighead]

Ratchet strap has worked easy and well for me.

[jaksvalkIS]

Is it the same for an I/S?

[0leman]

ON my I/S, I have to drop the swing arm to I can remove the axel under the exhaust pipes as the saddle bags rail is in the way to take it off over the pipes.   I use the MC lift to move the bike up and down to do this (after lifting bike up high enough to put 2X4's under the rear wheel.  I do use a rope or strap to hold the swing arm up while replacing the pumpkin/drive shaft back.  Once the pumpkin in place, I use the bike lift to adjust it so that I can get the axel started and pull the wheel on.  Never used a second jack.  Also use the lift to adjust the height to reinstall the shocks.  Maybe when I get a few years older (pushing 70 now) and weaker may have to change my method. 

[The emperor has no clothes]

Is it the same for an I/S?

Yes, but if you have bag rails you have to get it lined up just right. In order to slide the axle out.

ON my I/S, I have to drop the swing arm to I can remove the axel under the exhaust pipes as the saddle bags rail is in the way to take it off over the pipes.   I use the MC lift to move the bike up and down to do this (after lifting bike up high enough to put 2X4's under the rear wheel.  I do use a rope or strap to hold the swing arm up while replacing the pumpkin/drive shaft back.  Once the pumpkin in place, I use the bike lift to adjust it so that I can get the axel started and pull the wheel on.  Never used a second jack.  Also use the lift to adjust the height to reinstall the shocks.  Maybe when I get a few years older (pushing 70 now) and weaker may have to change my method. 

You can do it. Just have to line it up just right.

[Chrisj CMA]

ON my I/S, I have to drop the swing arm to I can remove the axel under the exhaust pipes as the saddle bags rail is in the way to take it off over the pipes.   I use the MC lift to move the bike up and down to do this (after lifting bike up high enough to put 2X4's under the rear wheel.  I do use a rope or strap to hold the swing arm up while replacing the pumpkin/drive shaft back.  Once the pumpkin in place, I use the bike lift to adjust it so that I can get the axel started and pull the wheel on.  Never used a second jack.  Also use the lift to adjust the height to reinstall the shocks.  Maybe when I get a few years older (pushing 70 now) and weaker may have to change my method.  

Sounds good as long as the wheel isint resting on the ground (or anything else) when you tighten the axle nut

[0leman]

ON my I/S, I have to drop the swing arm to I can remove the axel under the exhaust pipes as the saddle bags rail is in the way to take it off over the pipes.   I use the MC lift to move the bike up and down to do this (after lifting bike up high enough to put 2X4's under the rear wheel.  I do use a rope or strap to hold the swing arm up while replacing the pumpkin/drive shaft back.  Once the pumpkin in place, I use the bike lift to adjust it so that I can get the axel started and pull the wheel on.  Never used a second jack.  Also use the lift to adjust the height to reinstall the shocks.  Maybe when I get a few years older (pushing 70 now) and weaker may have to change my method. 

You can do it. Just have to line it up just right.
[/quote]

I am running DS, tire won't go up far enough into the fender to allow me to remove the axel over the bag rails.  I have tried several times.

[Gryphon]

I'm running a darkside and manage to get it over the bag rails and mufflers.  I have a belly tank, so going under the mufflers isn't an option.  I put the bike on the life and then raise the tire with a basic hydraulic floor jack.  I do unhook the shocks first.  It gives me enough travel to get it over the bag supports.

[BradValk48237]

Just An FYI Warning....

I have always changed my tires myself... one of the first things I learned on here was how, and how to make a lift adapter... I made the simple one out of 3 pieces of 2X4 as shown on here..... just center it between back pad on jack and kickstand cross over... has worked fine for years,, drop the jack and raise the jack to help muscle the wheel in and out... plus some muscle... BTW I always strap the front down on both sides..

I also drop the swing arm as I have a I/S....... use a ratchet strap also...

WEEEELLLLLL... Last time I went dark side... and had to really wiggle and lift to get the wheel in....

As I was doing this, i managed to lift the bike off the jack Juuuust enough for the adapter to fall out and clunk to the floor!!!!!!!!?!?!??   So here I am, sitting UNDER the rear end with the tire not in and me balancing the weight of the rear of the bike.... Wasn't heavy, just had to balance....

Of course the adapter slid JUST out of reach of my foot....

And I was alone in  the garage......

Luckily, the tire was just wedged enough for me to one hand the fender, balance the bike level and scoot over to recover the adapter.... replaced the adapter and then strapped down the back of the bike to the lift.....

Then went inside and changed shorts... And had a medicinal dram of Makers Mark.....

I have now added the board to the adapter to go under the motor and extended the adapter to sit further back on the jack (Sears) and put more weight on the back...

This was the 3rd tire change and had never had an issue before...

So be careful out there and make sure you have the bike as back as far as you can on the lift..... And an adapter that won't move...LOL

 

Brad

[The emperor has no clothes]

ON my I/S, I have to drop the swing arm to I can remove the axel under the exhaust pipes as the saddle bags rail is in the way to take it off over the pipes.   I use the MC lift to move the bike up and down to do this (after lifting bike up high enough to put 2X4's under the rear wheel.  I do use a rope or strap to hold the swing arm up while replacing the pumpkin/drive shaft back.  Once the pumpkin in place, I use the bike lift to adjust it so that I can get the axel started and pull the wheel on.  Never used a second jack.  Also use the lift to adjust the height to reinstall the shocks.  Maybe when I get a few years older (pushing 70 now) and weaker may have to change my method. 

You can do it. Just have to line it up just right.

I am running DS, tire won't go up far enough into the fender to allow me to remove the axel over the bag rails.  I have tried several times.


[/quote]Ive been dark side for quite a while. It is tight though