2000 Valkyrie losing throttle/sputtering/dying at highway speeds

[Jennedj]

Hey all, first post here. I bought a 2000 valk from a good friend who took great care of it. He was the original owner and it currently has 5400 miles. After riding it about 250 miles with no issues it started doing funny things.

It's my first bike and while I am fairly mechanically inclined, I've only worked on cars. So to elaborate, it started acting up after a few miles of riding I merged on the highway. It started to lose throttle after about a mile at 70-75 mph. It bogged and died. It took about 30 seconds total of cranking several minutes later to get it restarted. Sat and idled fine for a few minutes. Pulled back onto the highway and made it another 2 miles and boom, same problem. I now intermittently have this problem. I've made several rides with no issues but sometimes I can't make it a mile without it bogging. I learned that I can roll off the throttle for a few seconds and it will straighten out for a minute or two.

I looked the bike over and noticed there was a 2 inch long fat vacuum/fuel line that came lose to the right of the bike just under the back of the tank. It feeds into a little black plastic box that has two other lines that go down and back. I thought this may have been the issue but after fighting it back on, I rode and 15 minutes in the same problem.


Any thoughts on what I should check out? I ordered a service manual but it won't be here for several days.

Any info is appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

[wingrider02]

I would take a good look at the vacuum line that runs from the petcock to the intake.  If that has a tear or crack, you will find you run out of fuel due to the petcock not letting gas flow.

I would also take a look at the inside of the tank to be sure there wasn't any rust.  You can also try opening the fuel cap to see if the vent is the problem.

[Michelin Man]

Sounds like fuel starvation or that your vent line is stopped-up. Un-latch your cap the next time this happens. If that don't fix it check your vacuum line to your petcock. Last thing check your pectcock for proper operation.

[gordonv]

You can get a copy of the PDF here, to go along with your hard copy.

http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

Like mentioned, most likely a vacuum leak.

But with those miles, you most likely have or will have a jetting issue. If you haven't already, add a full can of Berrymans B12 or Techron carb cleaner to a tank of fuel. Ride the bike, but try to get it in low RPM, <2500.

Post your results, and we can move on from there.

What happens if you where to slow down when the bike starts to bog down? (less fuel required). Turn your petcock indicator on/off, and feel for those "clicks" as the ball drops into position. This should insure that the correct spot is being used, on is on, etc.

Have you tried reserve when you started bogging down?

[JC]

Plugged vent line, bad petcock, and/or fuel line going uphill, any of the three or combination of the same can cause the problem you describe. It's a fuel delivery issue for sure. Been there, done that.

[nogrey]

Lots of good advice here from what I can see. I had a very similar, if not the same experience on my '01 Interstate after I bought it. The vacuum line from #6 to the petcock was fine. The fuel tank seemed very clean looking from the top into the fill hole. No issues with the vent line (at the very back of the tank bottom) being pinched or clogged. It would always happen  at cruising speed. It felt a little like vapor lock. It turned out to be the petcock. One of the folks above mentioned turning it to reserve. That actually would fix my problem. I didn't like the idea of always riding with reserve on though. I replaced the petcock with a pingle hi-flow. That did the trick. The old petcock had a badly deformed screen. I don't know why that would do it, or perhaps there was an issue with the diaphragm. Don't know, I wanted a new non-vacuum operated petcock anyway with a positive shutoff valve to avoid the dreaded hydrolock. 
Actually in order of things I would check (based on my opinion of likelihood):
1) Check the vacuum hose from #6 to the petcock. Cracked or poor connection on either end = replace.
2) Is there an in-line fuel filter that you can see? If so, get rid of it. There's already one in the tank.
3) Check flow from the petcock. This can be a bit tricky, but is doable. You have to remove the feed hose from the outlet, then apply a small amount of vacuum to the hose that comes from #6. Either have something under the petcock port to catch the fuel or use a hose of some sort so you can see the flow. It should be plentiful, not slow.
4) Rust. Unfortunately, this bike sat a lot more than it was driven. This makes the likelihood of rust a fairly good possibility. Any rust in the tank will accumulate around the petcock and clog the filter and intake. Really, the best way to find out is to drain and remove the tank, then remove the petcock. It's very easy.
5) Vent line. I say this as the least likely because I've pinched mine before. Bike only runs for about a mile. It is possible to have a partially pinched line. The way to verify is to ride the bike with the gas lid open. If the vent line is the problem, this will cure it and tell you to fix the vent line. It is fairly easy to pinch them when installing the tank.

Hope this helps!

[valkster_99]

Had the same problem on my 99' Standard. Problem turned out to be the petcock. Replaced it with a brand new petcock purchased online and the bike has been running smooth since then. Good luck.

[Jennedj]

Thank you for all of the suggestions guys! I apologize for not responding sooner, I was traveling most of the week. I am going to be trying some of the suggestions today and can hopefully report back with more useful information.

It is frustrating more than anything because the bike was been garage kept and well maintained and then I get it and have trouble in the first month! But I don't think it is a tank rust issue, even though it has low miles it was still ridden often, my friend just happened to live about a mile from his job that he rode to most every day.

Last November, he took it to the shop he bought it from to service a fuel leak. He couldn't tell me where the leak came from or what they did to fix it, he doesn't ask many questions. He ended up buying a new Harley CVO about a month later but he did say he told them to do whatever to service the bike and clean it up since at that point he was planning on keeping it. I would have thought they might've caught this issue then.

Anywho, I'll quit rambling. Thanks for the info and I'll get back to ya!

[wingrider02]

If it was recently serviced, I would certainly be looking at a pinched line....be it a vacuum line or a fuel line.

[Jennedj]

Ok, so I just pulled the tank loose and lifted the back up to get a look at the underside. At first glance all looked well. But then I noticed a loose vac line just kinda hanging. Sure enough there is a long slender metal nipple coming out of the tank just behind the fuel valve body. Is this the infamous 'vent line' that could be causing all of the problems? The metal fitting it slips over looks a bit rusty like it has been disconnected for a while, say since November'ish

If what I am looking at in the pdf manual is correct (my copy is taking a grand tour of the United States at the moment) then I believe I am looking at the notorious breather and have since writing this, reconnected the line. If anyone sees this and can quickly confirm my suspicion I just may still be able to ride this weekend!

Thanks for all the advice guys! You truly are lifesavers for a newbie like myself!

[The emperor has no clothes]

Yes that is the tank vent nipple. But if it was disconnected I don't think that was causing your problem. Usually the problem with that is the vent hose will get kinked and not be able to vent correctly. Unless something is clogging the nipple itself I don't see how that was the problem. Are you sure the fuel line itself is the right length ? Sometimes guys will make them a little longer so that it's easier to hook up. But when the heat gets to them they will kink up and not let full flow go thru. The line needs to be short enough where it is a pain to get hooked back up.

[Jennedj]

As you have beat me to the bad news, I will confirm that my problem is not solved. I didn't make it a couple miles on the highway before it started acting up... Its getting aggravating limping it home since the nearest exit is 4 miles away...

When it started to bog I reached down and flipped to reserve. That didn't change anything. When the bike couldn't continue any farther I pulled to the side of the highway and attempted to vent the gas cap. I used a couple free drink punch cards I had in my wallet, that was all the thickness I could jam in there and still get it to lock. I thought that might've helped because it cleaned up and ran great to the next exit.

But alas, in my never ending quest to have a solid set of data I decided to risk it and ride back the other way on the highway instead of playing it safe and taking surface streets home. Boy that was a mistake. A mile and a half in the same problem showed its ugly face again.

I hope some of this newly recorded data makes it easier to diagnose the problem because I am getting really confused. I was supposed to ride in to make a day ride with some family tomorrow but since they are 3 hours away by highway I guess I need to call it off.

Again, thanks for all of the advice guys, I really do appreciate it.

[Jennedj]

Yes that is the tank vent nipple. But if it was disconnected I don't think that was causing your problem. Usually the problem with that is the vent hose will get kinked and not be able to vent correctly. Unless something is clogging the nipple itself I don't see how that was the problem. Are you sure the fuel line itself is the right length ? Sometimes guys will make them a little longer so that it's easier to hook up. But when the heat gets to them they will kink up and not let full flow go thru. The line needs to be short enough where it is a pain to get hooked back up.

As far as the fuel line goes, if you are speaking of the one from the the valve body that goes forward to a T I wouldn't say it was a pain to connect. I actually pulled the end off of the valve itself to check it for damage and got it slipped back on relatively easy.

[Jennedj]

Well I wasn't going to sleep until I had at least checked so I walked back out and pulled the tank off... again. Only took about 10 minutes, I'm getting better.

I traced the fuel line to where it T's and it looked good, to the naked eye at least. However, it looked like someone cut it at the end and added 2 inches instead of replacing the whole piece. Not sure if the connection they used could be an issue or not but it was solidly together. I took a couple pictures, I'll see if I can upload them for you to take a gander at.

With added section:


Without added section to show the connection used:


Now I'm no expert mechanic, but I'm pretty sure if you are cutting the end off a fuel line, you might as well replace all 8" of it instead of just the end. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sure does look like Gomer got awful lazy with this one. I will add that all other visible fuel line seems to match and is a greyish color, so I believe it is all original other than this piece in the picture.

[trout dude]

Looks like they made the fuel line longer so they could get the tank on easier . This dose not work leave that black section of hose out, making this line longer will make it starve for gas under a load. If you can put the gray pieces back together without the black pice and see how she runs then i think this will fix your . Hope this helps also where are you located because we have good wrenches all over and people who might be close by to help you out.
 Trout Dude

[The emperor has no clothes]

Looks like they made the fuel line longer so they could get the tank on easier . This dose not work leave that black section of hose out, making this line longer will make it starve for gas under a load. If you can put the gray pieces back together without the black pice and see how she runs then i think this will fix your . Hope this helps also where are you located because we have good wrenches all over and people who might be close by to help you out.
 Trout Dude

+1, also that barb connecting the hoses has got to be restricting flow.

[Grandpa Bigbuck]

Since you have the tank off it would be a great time to check the diaphragm in the petcock. If there is a hole in it it will cause the symptoms you are describing.

[Jennedj]

I will check again, but I don't think I'll be able to connect it up without the black piece with just what is there. It looks like they cut about an inch off and added 2 back. Not sure it'll stretch that far.

Also I am located about an hour west of Indianapolis.

[gordonv]

Also I am located about an hour west of Indianapolis.

Is that where you are now, or where you live? I think from reading you are currently on a road trip.

Add it to your profile.

[trout dude]

I will check again, but I don't think I'll be able to connect it up without the black piece with just what is there. It looks like they cut about an inch off and added 2 back. Not sure it'll stretch that far.

Also I am located about an hour west of Indianapolis.

Thats why they some times add the hose because it's tight and a pain in the a$$. I know stock length is just right. Been there done that.
  Dennis

[Jennedj]

Ok. so its been a little while but the problem still persists. I tried what you guys said and removed the black piece pictured above and fought the original grey line on. I forced it and as soon as I started the bike it was leaking fuel from the port side of the T line where it meets the rail at the carbs. I got off work late and bought some 3/8 fuel line from Autozone and replaced all 3 lines from the valve to the two rails. This was quite a pain since I didn't plan on pulling the airbox off to get to them.

Anyway, I got them on and after well over an hour trying to reconnect the rubber pieces to the carb throats I finally got it all together and it started leaking from the valve immediately. To which a quick google search told me I had bought the wrong line and the valve line should be 5/16. Being how close these line sizes are, I grabbed a spare hose clamp I had sitting around and tightened it on the valve. Now the leak is gone but the problem is just as bad as  before.

I didn't make it a mile or so at 65+ mph before it bogged down....

At this point I am thinking it has to be the valve? I couldn't imagine there is any more problem with the fuel lines themselves, and the feed line is even 1/16 larger than before, which I would think is an improvement for something starved of fuel.


Tell me I'm on the right track guys. And to the person that asked above, I live in Terre Haute for the next 6 months or so.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Well don't feel too bad. That fuel line was going to have to get fixed any way. I think if it was me, next I would put on a new cover set and pet rooster filter. Along with new vacuum line to petcock. Wouldn't hurt to put a new tank vent line while you are at it. With that few miles on the bike it's been sitting a lot. I wouldn't be surprised if the screen was clogged because of bad gunned up fuel. Good luck. You can't be too far from getting her right.  Did I understand this is your first bike ? Going right to the big leagues. 

[Red Diamond]

Fixed the petcock by ordering a new cover set, everything you need except a new in tank screen and o-ring. Make sure you don't have any sediments in the tank by emptying excess gas (shaking the tank) into a clean container thru the petcock orifice. While you are ordering, order the correct fuel line along with the in tank screen and o-ring. Put it back together and ride.

[pais]

Fixed the petcock by ordering a new cover set, everything you need except a new in tank screen and o-ring. Make sure you don't have any sediments in the tank by emptying excess gas (shaking the tank) into a clean container thru the petcock orifice. While you are ordering, order the correct fuel line along with the in tank screen and o-ring. Put it back together and ride.

I've looked at parts fiche a number of times. I cannot for the life of me figure out which is the fuel line that goes from petcock to fuel T? When I removed tank I had to cut fuel line. I could not get line off nipple. Stock fuel line has a hard plastic like coating on it for about 2". Assuming that its their to protect where it lays across stay plate. Any help here will be appreciated.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Fixed the petcock by ordering a new cover set, everything you need except a new in tank screen and o-ring. Make sure you don't have any sediments in the tank by emptying excess gas (shaking the tank) into a clean container thru the petcock orifice. While you are ordering, order the correct fuel line along with the in tank screen and o-ring. Put it back together and ride.

I've looked at parts fiche a number of times. I cannot for the life of me figure out which is the fuel line that goes from petcock to fuel T? When I removed tank I had to cut fuel line. I could not get line off nipple. Stock fuel line has a hard plastic like coating on it for about 2". Assuming that its their to protect where it lays across stay plate. Any help here will be appreciated.

I just used fuel line purchased from Auto Zone. I didn't put the plastic cover back on mine because I also put on a DanMarc. But I think you could put it back on. Just remember, the most important thing is the correct length.

[Jennedj]

Fixed the petcock by ordering a new cover set, everything you need except a new in tank screen and o-ring. Make sure you don't have any sediments in the tank by emptying excess gas (shaking the tank) into a clean container thru the petcock orifice. While you are ordering, order the correct fuel line along with the in tank screen and o-ring. Put it back together and ride.

I'm still relatively new to this bike. Is there a preferred website to acquire these parts from or is it a honda dealer thing? Thanks!

[Ramie]

Fixed the petcock by ordering a new cover set, everything you need except a new in tank screen and o-ring. Make sure you don't have any sediments in the tank by emptying excess gas (shaking the tank) into a clean container thru the petcock orifice. While you are ordering, order the correct fuel line along with the in tank screen and o-ring. Put it back together and ride.

I'm still relatively new to this bike. Is there a preferred website to acquire these parts from or is it a honda dealer thing? Thanks!

All kinds of them out there;
http://www.directlineparts.com/byBrand.asp?brd=Honda+OEM+Parts&str=2

http://www.partzilla.com/
just a couple

[longrider]

I've  been reading your posts.  You've had good advice here.  When you get finished installing the screen and cleaning the tank be sure to recheck the petcock with fuel in the tank.  See how the flow is.  I'll bet the bike will run fine

warren

[Yfx4]

You said he only rode it a mile or so to work.

That will not warm it up properly and a full tank of gas will take MONTHS to get used up. (I get about 30mpg. My IS has a 7 gallon tank, after 5 months I would still have 2 gallons of stale gas left)

I suspect changing out the fuel delivery lines/valves/filters will be the start. I hope the jets are not gunky too.

Just a thought.

[nogrey]

Fixed the petcock by ordering a new cover set, everything you need except a new in tank screen and o-ring. Make sure you don't have any sediments in the tank by emptying excess gas (shaking the tank) into a clean container thru the petcock orifice. While you are ordering, order the correct fuel line along with the in tank screen and o-ring. Put it back together and ride.

I'm still relatively new to this bike. Is there a preferred website to acquire these parts from or is it a honda dealer thing? Thanks!

All kinds of them out there;
http://www.directlineparts.com/byBrand.asp?brd=Honda+OEM+Parts&str=2

http://www.partzilla.com/
just a couple

When ordering any of the fuel lines, vacuum lines or caps, I like to get stuff from Redeye. He also sells great de-smog kits and his prices are very reasonable.
http://redeye.ecrater.com

[Skycat01]

Hi,

 I am new on the board and just solved a similar problem on one of my other bikes. I had the same thing happen to me after 20 minute intervals on my GSXR.  Make a long story short, I trouble shot everything under the sun.

   On a long shot I checked the plugs and they were white - so I knew she was starving for fuel.  I poked around and after removing the tank and the petcock as a unit I found one of the pre formed fuel hoses from the tank to the petcock,  that had two bends in it had gone mushy over 15 years and colapsed. Texas 103 degree heat and 85 mph no doubt help push it over the limit of elasticity. Not to mention almost 20 years of life in Texas. Not good for rubber.

I hope you are lucky enough to have something so simple be the issue in your case.

Skycat01- Texas
 

[Jennedj]

Cover kit, screen/o-ring kit, and correct feed line are on order. Sprung for expedited shipping hoping they will be here this weekend. I just started back at school so I need to wrap this up as soon as possible and its mostly restricted to the weekends now.

As always, thanks for the info guys!

[Patrick]

Too bad you ordered an OEM petcock or kit. I would have recommended a Pingle valve.  But, a good rebuild should have it working as it should for awhile. While the tank is off make sure the vent is clear and when installing it make sure the line to the swing arm is free and not clogged or kinked.
The fuel line is 8mm which is between 3/8 and 5/16. All will flow enough fuel if not leaking.

[Jennedj]

I debated on the pingle, as it seems like a much better option... as well the dan marc addition, being an electrical/computer engineer I find the electrical route to always be the best  But I am also broke, so getting it back on the road for about $50 vs. $100+ I had to take the inexpensive fix for now. I plan to do the vacuum bypass mod while I have it apart. I have that thread saved somewhere on here.

Also, I had the seat off today and I noticed a T fitting in the tank vent line, right in front of the battery box. The T had a line continuing south toward the bottom of the bike but the horizontal barb had nothing connected to it. I also couldn't find any line nearby that seemed like it should be connected...

Can anyone tell me what I am looking for and where it might have gone? Couldn't find this line in any diagram in my shop manual.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I debated on the pingle, as it seems like a much better option... as well the dan marc addition, being an electrical/computer engineer I find the electrical route to always be the best  But I am also broke, so getting it back on the road for about $50 vs. $100+ I had to take the inexpensive fix for now. I plan to do the vacuum bypass mod while I have it apart. I have that thread saved somewhere on here.

Also, I had the seat off today and I noticed a T fitting in the tank vent line, right in front of the battery box. The T had a line continuing south toward the bottom of the bike but the horizontal barb had nothing connected to it. I also couldn't find any line nearby that seemed like it should be connected...

Can anyone tell me what I am looking for and where it might have gone? Couldn't find this line in any diagram in my shop manual.

The vent line T doesn't connect to anything. It's a vacuum break. Sometimes in a heavy rain the vent line will suck up water and quit running if it doesn't have the T.  My 2 cents on the petcock are : just install the cover set and be done with it. Converting it to a manual removes one of the safeguards. Some swear by the pingle. But I've got 2 bikes with a total of 160k miles and only one cover set replaced between them. A danmarc is pretty cheap piece of mind also.

[Jennedj]

Got the tank off and drained earlier and pulled the valve our. Could this be what's causing all of my problems?

Definitely doesn't look right to me..

[The emperor has no clothes]

Got the tank off and drained earlier and pulled the valve our. Could this be what's causing all of my problems?

Definitely doesn't look right to me..

Yep, I'm surprised you are getting any gas at all.

[BradValk48237]

There's yer' Sign...... Been there done that... but not as bad as that one you have....

If you want to ride right away you can convert what you have to non vacuum manual with using just the outer ring of that diaphragm as a gasket and plugging the vacuum line nipple.... take out the spring and plug..... boom- instant manual... you can plug the hole with JB weld or whatever is handy

I did that 3 years ago and had no issues since...... I had ordered the replacement "cover set" but didn't want to wait.... the cover set rides in my sale bag just in case...

There are instructions somewhere on here...

You could be back on her in an hour.. LOL

Brad

[Jennedj]

Installed cover set and screen. Seems to run fine now!

[wingrider02]

Glad you got it figured out!  Happy riding!