Fork rebuild parts.

[John Schmidt]

Looks like the parts are scheduled for delivery Friday to rebuild the 1200 forks. Thats great except for one thing, I can't compress the springs by myself. I can do it on the Valk because they don't stick out that much and are fairly easy to do. These stick out 5-6" and I've already experimented with it to no avail. If I had an extra set of hands, I'd create a board with a proper size hole in it to allow a socket to go down over the fork cap. Then while someon pressed down on the board, I screw the cap on. I'm open to different ideas on how to compress the springs but have a feeling it's going to be a knuckle buster. I might have to make a tool that clamps underneath the top tree and be bolted together on eithe side of the tube to another piece on top. As I screw the bolts down it would pull the cap down, it would have to have a hole in the upper piece big enough for a socket. Let you all know how it goes.....good or bad. 

[Jess from VA]

I had some fork springs (and other parts) shoot out and over my 7' fence (not a Valk).  I was really glad my face was not in the line of fire.  Watch your dental work John.   

 

[hubcapsc]

[Bert AKA,Valkaholic]

Looks like the parts are scheduled for delivery Friday to rebuild the 1200 forks.  I can't compress the springs by myself.  If I had an extra set of hands, I'd create a board with a proper size hole in it to allow a socket to go down over the fork cap. Then while someon pressed down on the board, I screw the cap on. it's going to be a knuckle buster.  Let you all know how it goes.....good or bad. 

Hey John, If You Would Like To Do This On Monday, Tuesday, Or Wednesday,I Can Help You!
Just Let Me Know,
Bert

[WoodyFL]

John,
I work during the weekdays till 5. I can help either after work on weekdays or on the weekends. I'm pretty close to you so no problem.


Bob

[John Schmidt]

Thanks for the offers to help, I'll let you know how things go up to the point of inserting the cap. Have to see what I come up with.

Hupcap...that won't work on these forks. There's nothing but spring showing above the fork tube and to be compressed to start screwing in the cap. Not sure how I'll do it yet, have a couple ideas for a homemade tool....not sure it will work. When I took the first cap off, it shot a good 15' across the garage. Gives you an idea of the tension on it.

[FloridaValkRyder]

John, I can help you Sunday after work. I'm halfway there already. Call me.
PS: I'm off Monday and Tuesday too if I'm not in Arizona or hunkering down here from a hurricane. 

[John Schmidt]

Jeff, thanks for the offer but Saturday turned out to be a lost day so I won't be ready to do anything with the springs on Sunday. I didn't get anything done on the forks except to find out 1.5" PVC won't work. The OD is fine, but the ID is too small to go over the fork tube. After a number tries and a couple trips to HD, I gave up and took care of some stuff for the lady of the house. Guess I'll quit messing with the plastic and buy a seal driver, Cycle Gear might have one but have to call Sunday.

[John Schmidt]

Well, it appears all the time spent at the gym has paid off. I was able to compress the spring on one so far and did it by hand. First, I cut a 1x2 scrap to about 6" long, then drilled a hole in it large enough for the fork cap and my socket to fit through it. The spring sticks out about 4" past the top of the fork and trying to start the cap using just the socket was too unstable. By setting the small wood piece on it let me stabilize it with one hand while forcing the spring/cap down with the socket & ratchet. The threads are recessed nearly an inch inside the top of the fork tube and it took a couple tries to get it started. Got one in now, it will make you grunt for sure. That allowed me to insert the bolt in the bottom using some thread lock and torquing to 15 ft. lbs.  Having the cap on with the spring in place holds the inside so you can set that bolt. Now I have to remove it to fill it with ATF and do the whole thing over again. Had to set that bottom bolt first or it would all drain out. But at least now I know I can do it myself if needed. Going to try and finish this part of the project this weekend so I can move on.

[FloridaValkRyder]

Great job John and not surprising. My offer still stands if need be.

[OnaWingandaPrayer]

John , I am not sure how the 1200 caps are designed . On the GL 1500 I have drilled and tapped several sets of fork caps. With a 1/4 -20 or 1/8 pipe thread you can fill with oil or do fork oil changes without having to remove the caps.
 I realize its a little late since you already have one installed but perhaps its a thought to entertain. when you remove it and before you install the second one.
 I do them in a lathe so they are centered , but just a drill press or even hand held drill could do . When I used the 1/4-20 I would seal the screw head with a nylon washer . The 1/8 pipe I use a brass plug Teflon . I think blue Loctite would work as well.

[John Schmidt]

John , I am not sure how the 1200 caps are designed . On the GL 1500 I have drilled and tapped several sets of fork caps. With a 1/4 -20 or 1/8 pipe thread you can fill with oil or do fork oil changes without having to remove the caps.
 I realize its a little late since you already have one installed but perhaps its a thought to entertain. when you remove it and before you install the second one.
 I do them in a lathe so they are centered , but just a drill press or even hand held drill could do . When I used the 1/4-20 I would seal the screw head with a nylon washer . The 1/8 pipe I use a brass plug Teflon . I think blue Loctite would work as well.

Good idea, I bought new caps since the old ones were all rusty and wouldn't clean up. I'll try it on one of the old ones first, see how it goes. Sure would make it easier for a fork oil change. I have a couple different sizes of drill press vices/clamps so I know one of them will work to hold it solid. Since I will have to remove the one cap already mounted in order to either fill the tube or drill it, I'll experiment first. Not looking forward to putting those caps on four times if I don't need to, those springs are strong. When I removed the first one a while back, it shot a good 15' so you know there's some pressure behind it. I'm thinking a nice polished SS button head bolt would look real nice in there.  Let you know how it goes.