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Author Topic: 99 interstate headlight debacle!  (Read 1125 times)
BlueLine984
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Posts: 46


Conyers, Georgia


« on: September 16, 2015, 11:49:18 PM »

Evening folks!
I've been debating the LED headlight upgrade just as others have for a while and have the headlight modulator that came on mine when I bought it. I haven't taken a solid look to see what kind of bulbs to use for one and two; the kits I've seen through other posts here and online are H4 bulbs...NOW, doesn't the Interstate with the dual headlights use a 9003 instead of an H4 or am I backwards on it?

Second - has anyone installed the LED headlight and still used a modulator without any issues?
Nate
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Our greatest weakness lies in giving up. The most certain way to succeed is always to try just one more time. Thomas Edisonhttp://i47.tinypic.com/oh8fgz.gif
Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2015, 04:59:49 AM »

You can use the 9003 as an upgrade from the standard H4, you just have to cut off a little tab.  The 9003 is a direct fit for the standard/tourexr
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2015, 05:04:37 AM »

The Valkyrie Standard and Interstate is designed for an H4 bulb. The IS uses a 45/45 watt bulb and the Standard/Tourer used a 55/60 watt. The common automotive type 9003 is often used but it needs to have two of it's "ears" clipped and many use an adapter ring to get a proper fit. If the adapter ring is not used then the bulb will sit differently in the reflector housing and the beam aim will have to be adjusted a bit. You need a headlight modulator that's designed for a LED bulb. The incandescent modulators will over or under modulate the LED and will not be legal if it works at all. There are strict DOT rules on the percentage and timing of headlight modulation.
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BlueLine984
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Posts: 46


Conyers, Georgia


« Reply #3 on: September 17, 2015, 05:10:23 AM »

You need a headlight modulator that's designed for a LED bulb. The incandescent modulators will over or under modulate the LED and will not be legal if it works at all. There are strict DOT rules on the percentage and timing of headlight modulation.

Aye - I'm still a cop so the law behind it I'm aware of here in GA. Appreciate the reply and the info, glad I didn't hook my regular modulator up to it!
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Our greatest weakness lies in giving up. The most certain way to succeed is always to try just one more time. Thomas Edisonhttp://i47.tinypic.com/oh8fgz.gif
Paladin528
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Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #4 on: September 17, 2015, 10:02:47 AM »

Where does one find the adapter ring?
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Punisher
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No, not vengenance. Punishment.


« Reply #5 on: September 17, 2015, 10:55:29 AM »

You don't need the adapter ring and you don't have to remove any tabs.

Put it in position and note that two of the tabs will be slightly off to fit down in the slots.   If you trim the width of those two tabs (take about half out of each one) the bulb will sit down in the socket properly with no movement.

I just used a pair of snips to trim the tabs.
« Last Edit: September 17, 2015, 11:02:44 AM by Punisher » Logged
Paladin528
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Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2015, 10:59:10 AM »

OK.  is there really any advantage of the 9003 over the H4?
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Paladin528
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Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #7 on: September 17, 2015, 11:04:25 AM »

http://candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/H4_9003.pdf

answered my own question
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30456


No VA


« Reply #8 on: September 17, 2015, 12:18:22 PM »

My bikes (interstates) came with de-tabbed, adapter ringed 55/60s.

When they burned out, I replaced them with more auto parts 9003s,  which I assume are also called H4 halogens.

But I could never get the adapters and bulbs in together, so I left the rings out, and as far as I can tell, they are still perfectly aimed.  I don't get flashed on dims, and will get flashed on brights.

Interesting info on trimming and not breaking the tabs all the way off.  Off, the bulbs feel pretty loose going in, but all my replacements have stayed put and worked fine. 
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