solenoid problems

[greggh]

1998 standard 108000 miles.
I have replaced 3 ignition solenoids, starter solenoid call them one day maybe I am not certain.
I understand it is problematic to these bikes.
However I would like to know why does it keep doing it and is there a way to stop it from melting down the starter solenoid?
Any knowledge or ideas would be awesome.
It has happens about every 2.5 yrs.
Certainly baffled.
Thanks in advance.
Greggh

[bentwrench]

My 98 tourer is still on it's oe sol. I check the connector once a year and keep it packed with dielecteic grease.

[John Schmidt]

How often have you replaced the battery during the same period? That solenoid is pretty much bullet proof so I'd look elsewhere for a cause/effect. A weak battery or poor connections on it will cause things to work harder, hence overheat in some cases.

[salty1]

How often have you replaced the battery during the same period? That solenoid is pretty much bullet proof so I'd look elsewhere for a cause/effect. A weak battery or poor connections on it will cause things to work harder, hence overheat in some cases.

  I agree loose connections can be real problematic. A fellow rider last year had loose battery connections on his wing which melted a contact and took out his radio, that was expensive. I'm checking my connections annually now.

[greggh]

Battery replacement about 2 years give a few months.
Check connections begin of season and that's about it.
A+  on the dielectric grease.
Going thru connections and uping the amount i n put on.
Just seems odd to have it happen 3 times since getting the bike
 

[sixlow]

Do you have any driving lights or other accessories that may be running that same circuit ?

[John Schmidt]

Re. dielectric grease, keep in mind it's called that because it doesn't conduct. So if you're smearing it all over those connections you're not creating a good path. If used on the surface of connectors to help seal out the elements and make separating connectors easier, then fine. But don't put it on the actual contacts themselves.

[Rio Wil]

I am a little uncertain just what is failing here.....there is no ignition solenoid or starter solenoid.....there is a starter relay under the right side cover.....is that what you have replaced 3 times? If so, did the relay melt down or did the 4 pin connector on top of the relay burn up.....You might simply have problem with the start button not energizing the start relay and need to do the clean job of the start switch.....that is if no parts are actually being burned.....

[R J]

Do you have driving lights on this curcuit?     If so get a relay in there to help protect it.

Pay attention to what the posts above this one say.

Go to Chet's shop talk pages and add a relay to the system like he suggests.

If I get enough ambition up, I'll dig it out for you.

[R J]

In the following link (URL) you want to pull up the items I listed below.


http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/circuits.html

You want

'start switch safeguard'.

'Upgraded Cobra light bar wiring'.

'Typical light bar wiring'.

'OEM Horn switch + horn wire'.

[hubcapsc]

What John said about dielectric grease...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease#Dielectric_grease

Here's the relay from my 93,000 mile 97... I finally looked in there
last year... I "polished" the connectors with 1000 grit sandpaper...
I think the connectors need to be clean and tight... covered with
dielectric grease is probably bad...



What RJ said about lights... if you have extra lights, don't hook their
wiring into your headlight wiring... most have them hooked right to the battery,
triggered by a relay that is hooked to the accessory wire and only goes hot
when the bike is on. And the extra lights should have some kind of on-off
button too...

-Mike

[BobB]

I had the connector on top of the starter relay burn up in 2008.  The pink side was toast.  I replaced it with four individual spade connectors so I can insure a tight connection on every wire.  It has not failed since...

[greggh]

Cobra light bar is hooked into the headlights I believe from po.
Me and wires get along better than me and the ex!  Lol

[John Schmidt]

You need to isolate the Cobras from the headlight circuit. If the headlight circuit goes south, at least you have the Cobras to get you home.  Plus the current passing through the start button is already too high in stock form, adding those driving lights to an already overloaded circuit will only guarantee failure and usually at the most inopportune time(Murphy's Law).

[greggh]

RJ, Thanks for the link
However that's all greek to me.
I would burn the bike up for certain.
I will try talking to s friend who is a bike mech
See If he can give me time to look/work on this prob.
Thanks all for the insite and help.
Greggh