Exhaust Problem.

[t-man403]

These are my pipes.



Pipe in pipe, of which I had no problem the first time pulling out the inner pipe.



This time around I can't budge the inner pipe.
Any ideas as to how to get it out with out any damage would be appreciated.  

[98valk]

apply heat with a heat gun to the outer can so only it expands.  had to do that with with viking pipes one time. coat some of the mating surfaces with anti-sieze when putting it back together.

[salty1]

WOW!      What a rat's nest with all that packing. I've never seen anything like it. What brand of pipes are they?

[t-man403]

I believe they are a product from "Thunder" manufacturing.

The first time I pulled them apart was due to them not sounding in tune with each other so I repacked them with this.


Might just be me but I thing they are off tune again so I'd like to get them apart somehow.
I tried heating the outside to no avail as well as filling them with water. I also tried putting in a rubber pipe plug that expands and seals tight on the inside of the pipe.....no luck with that idea either.   

[Dusty]

 Is there only that one support at the rear of the pipe ? If that is the only support I would get a light to see if there is any corrosion or carbon buildup on the outside of the support. Clean as much as you can with a long screwdriver or scraper. Stand pipe on end (outlet up) and spray in penetrating oil . Let soak for a day or two.

Good Luck

Dusty

[Anthony]

I remember that picture,
it convinced me to repack my Thunder exhausts as well 

my set, without a protruding internal tube, have only 1 setting screw at the rear bottom.
the only place where the inner tube touches the outer tube, is at the rear cone.
I gently hammered the outside pipe down onto a soft wooden block, and the inside came out with 10 taps.



you could try to gently tap the rear cone edge inward, just to break it loose.

if you need to add heat, the only place you need to heat, is the rear where the inside cone touches.

can you at least wiggle the inner tube a bit, or is it completely stuck ?
if no movement at all is possible (left-right / up-down /  in-out) are you sure all setting screws are out ?


you could also try to tap the inner tube out from the rear, with a rod through the connection holes
for the header pipes, after removing the headers pipes, (they wiggle right out)

but first mark each connection with a alcohol marker, and/or take pictures of which tube goes where, from both Left AND right side! so that you know at which position to put back what pipe

making the packing wet is not the way to go, they will rot (but that is not your concern when trying to replace)

Anthony

[baldo]

You could try a slide hammer in conjunction with the rubber plug. It would have to really tight in the pipe, though. It's probably just fetched up with rust. Did the hardware loosen easily?

[t-man403]

I remember that picture,
it convinced me to repack my Thunder exhausts as well 

my set, without a protruding internal tube, have only 1 setting screw at the rear bottom.
the only place where the inner tube touches the outer tube, is at the rear cone.
I gently hammered the outside pipe down onto a soft wooden block, and the inside came out with 10 taps.



you could try to gently tap the rear cone edge inward, just to break it loose.

if you need to add heat, the only place you need to heat, is the rear where the inside cone touches.

can you at least wiggle the inner tube a bit, or is it completely stuck ?
if no movement at all is possible (left-right / up-down /  in-out) are you sure all setting screws are out ?


you could also try to tap the inner tube out from the rear, with a rod through the connection holes
for the header pipes, after removing the headers pipes, (they wiggle right out)

but first mark each connection with a alcohol marker, and/or take pictures of which tube goes where, from both Left AND right side! so that you know at which position to put back what pipe

making the packing wet is not the way to go, they will rot (but that is not your concern when trying to replace)

Anthony

This is it exactly!

I'm very sure the packing I used is too tight in there.....I wrapped the packing on and used masking tape to hold in place. They slid in okay .... some friction but i didn't have to use force. I've tried tapping them in, twisting them, heating, water, I was hoping the water would make the packing mushy. I used a rubber plumbers pipe plug with an extension of ready rod, a nut and plate on the end so I could hopefully beat\pull it out by hitting the plate with a hammer but no go. 

How did the steel wool work for you?

 I was going to try that but couldn't get any other than in small quantity. The packing gave mine a nice deep sound but now they sound tinny to me and that's why I'm wanting to repack. 

[Anthony]

The steel wool: i wished i used more stainless wool, before i wrapped the wool packing around. now there is only a thin layer around the core, to protect the wool from the flames.

When going full throttle on my blower bike, the whole inside of the center tube is completely and literally 'on fire'.   
Direct contact to those flames cause the wool to degrade faster / burn out. That is why the sound changed back.

Getting the core out:
If you can not get the steel core to move at all, then please double check the setting screws.
Then start using more force, step by step.

Anthony

[salty1]

Penetrating oil was mentioned in an earlier response, what would be wrong soaking the end of that pipe/insert joint with PB Blaster? It only seems reasonable that's the sticking point as the packing would compress and allow for movement.

[t-man403]

I give up for now!
No luck last night getting them out ...... we have very little riding time left so I'll take care of this during winter.