LED H4s in an I/S

[Valkorado]

Trying to figure out a solution for installing LED H4s in an Interstate.  Had to remove the lower two tabs to get them to fit the I/S 9003 sockets.  Fits in great, problem arises when I try to secure the bulb with the OEM spring clip.  The base of these bulbs are slightly thicker than a standard halogen bulb, and I can't get the latch back in the locking position. 

Anyone found a work around?  I'd sure like having the combined 8,000 lumens these bulbs will put out.

[MarkT]

Just push the spring latch over with a tool, not your fingers.  I have a small screwdriver with the center of the blade removed (with a Dremel cutter wheel), so the result is, it's a tiny spanner.  The notch then can hold the wire clip.  Another tool is a forceps.  That is, a tiny-jawed locking pliar.  That will also work.  Or use a small-tip needle nose pliar.  If you force the clip in position, the notch the wire goes into will hold it.

You might find, the Cyclops puts out a lot of light but it's not focused.  I went back to H4's and will be selling the Cyclops on evil-bay. If you want a LOT of light, do my relay mod for powering the headlight (if you are working on a IS, you already have headlight relays.) http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Headlight_Upgrade/headlight_upgrade.html  Add a hi-power H4 plug (NAPA or Autozone) and heavier wires from the relays to the bulbs, then get hi-power bulbs from http://www.compacc.com/p/kuryakyn-replacement-headlight-bulbs.  I can help with the relay mod.  You should see the light I throw down the road with ONE 130/90 headlight - then add two more std H4's on Jade...

[BonS]

The H4's will fit and the spring will clamp down with enough force. Rather than cutting the H4 tabs off completely, I'd cut them down until they just fit as the remaining tabs keep the H4 flat in the socket. Otherwise the H4 can tilt and mess up the light pattern a bit.

You can mod your OEM wiring as MarkT suggests or buy my SmartSwitch harness to boost your headlight brightness. The SmartSwitch comes as a pre-engineered  plug-and-play solution that boosts your headlights output with minimal effort and expense. You can check it out at www.TheDigiSync.com The difference is like night and day.

[MarkT]

Good Product, BonS.  I see there what you have put together is conceptually the same thing I've done on my tech mod, while you have made it Plug N Play.  Good idea.  I've been pushing the bennies of doing the headlight relay mod for years, but I think most fear wiring and relays so they look for other shortcuts that just don't perform like rolling up the sleeves and doing it the right way. Now they can do the same thing without assembling a few parts and learning to solder. Kudos.  Then adding a powerful bulb to the mod, delivers an impressive amount of light down range. I've been running my 130/90 for 15 years with no adverse effects to the lens or reflector. And of course have never had any issue with the OEM light or starter switches.

[Valkorado]

Thanks, guys.  Exactly the info I needed.

[BonS]

. . . You might find, the Cyclops puts out a lot of light but it's not focused.  I went back to H4's and will be selling the Cyclops on evil-bay.

The other issue that I have with the Cyclops is the tiny fan needed to keep it cool. These fans have a long history of failing in small power supplies and external hard drive enclosures to name a few. And these are in clean, dry and cool environments. The life on a motorcycle is a far harsher environment. And on a motorcycle you'll never know if the fan is failing (you can often hear them whining, clicking, groaning etc.) until the LED overheats and burns out. Yeah, a filament bulb can certainly burn out as well, but I know their approximate service life and carrying a spare is easy and inexpensive.

Good Product, BonS.  I see there what you have put together is conceptually the same thing I've done on my tech mod, while you have made it Plug N Play.  Good idea.  I've been pushing the bennies of doing the headlight relay mod for years, but I think most fear wiring and relays so they look for other shortcuts that just don't perform like rolling up the sleeves and doing it the right way. Now they can do the same thing without assembling a few parts and learning to solder. Kudos.  Then adding a powerful bulb to the mod, delivers an impressive amount of light down range. I've been running my 130/90 for 15 years with no adverse effects to the lens or reflector. And of course have never had any issue with the OEM light or starter switches.

Thanks Mark. There are a lot of folks that understand the issue but aren't comfortable with electrical mods because of limited understanding of electrical circuits. Or simply find it quicker and easier to get it ready made to take the guess work out of it. And WoW 130/90! That'll punch a hole in the darkness that won't heal!