Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 09, 2025, 10:47:45 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
VRCC Calendar Ad
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Final drive lubes  (Read 2411 times)
Gore
Member
*****
Posts: 30


Denver CO


« on: September 09, 2009, 05:38:32 PM »

I saw Dan Meyer's demo on rear ends at Inzane 9 and thought. I wonder if my service guy is doing all that when they change the tire. Not a chance. I pulled of the rear wheel and those gears are "munched". The dreaded red dust. Not an o-ring or thrust washer to be seen . Enough teeth on the final gear set and driven gear to barely if I'm lucky get by till new stuff comes. HDL? (any suggestions?)
Meanwhile I want to lube that area.
#1) In the final drive gear set / driven gear, do I use paste or grease?Man it's a dessert in there
#2) Drive shaft splines etc all look great, pinion cup etc look great. So, on the end that goes to the U-joint, paste or grease? On the end that goes in the cup, paste or grease? Or can I just let the shaft drive oil work it's magic as it appears to be doing?

I know about the tightening order, axle, spin wheel then 4 bolts

Logged

We gonna ride or we gonna dick around all day?    Okay good, let me just finish my coffee, find my key, grab gloves, call the woman, top-off, check my . . . . . . .
Daniel Meyer
Member
*****
Posts: 5493


Author. Adventurer. Electrician.

The State of confusion.


WWW
« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2009, 05:50:10 PM »

On the driveshaft,

Ujoint end, paste (but grease will work just fine)
Pinion cup, grease (absolutely NOT paste) and just a light lube. Make sure and clean the skunge out so the rear end lube can do its job.

On the drive splines..paste is recommended, I use grease...assembly ORDER is what matters...remember the 4 bolts? (leave for last).
Logged

CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2009, 05:54:19 PM »

Try pinwall's eBay store for a less than $200 final drive, either get a new flange from HDL or
perhaps pinwall has a good flange too...
http://www.pinwallcycle.com/


HDL has the thrust washer too, and VRCC sponsor www.carolinabikeandtrike.com has
O-ring sets...

I posted these ideas on lube on another thread:

There's a lot of information, and misinformation, out there... I'm about to replace my driveline, and
here's what I think at this point...

Per the manual:

   moly paste on final drive splines.

   moly grease at the pinion cup end (wheel end) of the drive shaft.

  regular grease at the universal end of the drive shaft.

Internet Knowledge I think is good:

  Don't glop tons of grease into the pinion cup, it'll clog up the holes which are there to allow
  gear oil to circulate through the pinion cup. Oil isn't lost from the final drive, the seal at the
  pinion cup prevents that. The two holes in the pinion cup are different, one is made so that
  oil flows into the pinion cup, the other facilitates it flowing back into the final drive.

Internet Knowledge I think is bad:

  pack lots of heavy grease into the pinion cup, make sure you clog the holes (?)

I don't have a grease-scale  uglystupid2  but the manual says how much grease to
put on each end:

  pack 0.5 grams of grease onto the [universal joint] splines.

  pack 2 grams of molybdenum disulfide grease into the pinion joint [pinion cup] spline.

-Mike
« Last Edit: September 09, 2009, 05:56:08 PM by hubcapsc » Logged

Gore
Member
*****
Posts: 30


Denver CO


« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2009, 07:06:11 PM »

Thanks Daniel and Mike. I'm new to posting on this board so such a prompt and simple-accurate reply is great.

I'll try your reccomends on places to find final drive gearing. Man looking at those I thought "I've seen better teeth on a jac-o-lantern".

I'm not the handiest at say syncronizing the carbs or rebuilding a tranny but things such as this aren't a problem. That said, do I want to change the final gear set myself or when I take the 8 bolts off is something going to sproingggg out?
Logged

We gonna ride or we gonna dick around all day?    Okay good, let me just finish my coffee, find my key, grab gloves, call the woman, top-off, check my . . . . . . .
Hoser
Member
*****
Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2009, 10:09:36 PM »

Just for your own satisfaction, I would take the gearset that is ruined to whoever you paid to do it, and chew some a$$. hoser  Angry
Logged

I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

[img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #5 on: September 10, 2009, 03:32:16 AM »


I'll try your reccomends on places to find final drive gearing. Man looking at those I thought "I've seen better teeth on a jac-o-lantern".


I got a good final drive from Pinwall, I've never seen him selling them for $29 before, I looked closer
at those cheap ones, they've got over 100K on them... it is hard to see the splines very well in any
of his pictures,  but stuff is usually like he says, and we've seen him make good on stuff (a drive shaft
recently) that had flaws he missed...

I'm not the handiest at say syncronizing the carbs or rebuilding a tranny but things such as this aren't a problem. That said, do I want to change the final gear set myself or when I take the 8 bolts off is something going to sproingggg out?


Your whole bike might sproinggg over if you're not careful with your jack and adaptor  crazy2 but
you've seen Daniel do it, and there's 100 people here who are happy to talk about doing it... you
should be fine... there's tons of stuff to read in the old tech archive that covers pretty much
any issue you might wonder about... apparently someone else has done the final drive
maintenance on your bike thus far, and you said there were no Orings and no thrust washer in
there now... you'll do way better than that...

-Mike "four bolts"
Logged

MP
Member
*****
Posts: 5532


1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar

North Dakota


« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2009, 04:42:33 AM »

+1 on what hoser said.  Take parts back to the shop, and tell them you want your money back for the service lubes you paid for, but they did NOT do!
MP
Logged


"Ridin' with Cycho"
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: