"Dashboard" light fuses?

[Oldnick]

While trying to install LED dashboard indicator lights, I suddenly lost voltage to the Hi Beam socket. In fact I have lost voltage for that lamp to the headlight enclosure itself. That is the multi - wire connector in the headlamop enclosure has no power to the cable  pair for the Hi Beam indicator.

As far as I l know I did not create a short at any stage, but is there a fuse somewhere for that? My Manual does not mention one and  in fact hardly mentions the dash lights at all.

ATM, if there is no fuse, I will jam the LED / indicator wires into the hi beam socket of tghe headlight and use the headlight to hold them there!

Thanks for any help

BTW the headlight still works. I actually do not know why Honda did not just tap into the headlight wiring as I have.


Nick

[Patrick]

Not sure what your problem is, but, maybe you didn't create a short. Maybe you created an open.

The fuse panel is behind the right side cover.

[Oldnick]

My problem is that I have no volts to the wires that light the hi beam indicator on the dahsboard lights. Not sure how I mis-described that.

OK. I may have createdf an open. I am not sure how, when the volts have died way beyond what I have touched.

Yes I know where the fuse box is. My manual does mention that.Is any of those fuses for the dashboard lights?

[indybobm]

You said that the headlight works but does the hi-beam also work? If just the low-beam works and the hi-beam indicator does not come on when you switch the dimmer switch to hi-beam, I would suspect bad contacts in the dimmer switch. (Your hi-beam could be bad but the indicator would still come on).

There are very good wiring schematics in ShopTalk by RP.
Here is the link:  http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/index.html

Notice at the top of the page there are two columns:
Valkyrie Standard/Tourer models & Valkyrie Interstate models

Under each heading is a list of sheets starting with Symbols and ending with Bulbs.

I believe your Trike is based on the Std/Tourer.  Under the heading for the first column, click on ‘S3’. This is the schematic that deals with, among other things, the Hi-Beam indicator.
This is the link for S3:  http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage04.html

On the right side of the sheet, it shows the headlight bulb. Follow the Blue wire left from the bulb to a splice connector (SP20). One wire from SP20 goes up to the hi-beam switch. This is where the power comes for the headlight hi-beam bulb and indicator. Follow the blue wire down to the 9P Mini Red connector. That is how power gets to the indicator bulb.

The only other element in this are the two green (ground) wires that goes through SP34 & SP35 to a ground connection inside the headlight shell. The green wire going into SP35 from the indicator lamp 6P Mini Green connector could have become disconnected.

The green wire through the 9P Mini Red connector and through SP34 & SP35 to the ground lug should be good or the headlight would not light up.

[Oldnick]

Blimey! OK I will check this out after some thought.

The headlight hi beam still works; it's  just the indicator on ther dahsboard

I need to check  again tomorrow. Will get back.

Nick

[indybobm]

Well, if you have both hi-beam and lo-beam headlight, then the problem cannot be too bad. When you say that you have no power to the indicator, is that because you measured it with a volt meter, or because the indicator does not illuminate?
Please do not take offense at this but if you have already installed the LED and the indicator does not illuminate, have you tried turning it around?
Maybe the 6P Mini Green connector got disconnected. Check to see if your turn signals work, they go through that connector also.

[Oldnick]

Thanks for the reply. Everything works except that one LED, which suddenly stopped. Yep I know they are  polarised and in fact it really irritates me that the LED and socket are not, so every time you try it,  it's a 50/50 crap shoot.. Back compatible with globes I guess.

Not sure what a Mini Green connector is, but  there is a green multi-wire connector in the headlamp that goes to the main loom for the wiring and feedws at least everything within the head lamp case. On that, the two wires for the dashboard light  for hi beam have no volts any more. So AFAICS the problem is down in the guts of the bike somewhere.

Nick

[Oldnick]

HAHAHAHA! So I persuaded the headlight back into the case, turned on the ignition, and all the lights lit up. So I flicked off the hi beam....and both neutal and hi beam indicators went off! Check for neutral...no neutral light. Hi beam back on...both neutrtal and hi beam  indicators come on.

Anybody guess what I had done? I actually laughed at myself after I stopped swearing.

Nick

[indybobm]

The 6P Mini Green connector is a 6 pin connector (that should be green) that the two wires for the Hi-Beam indicator go through. The wires for the turn signals also go through that connector.
It sounds like it might be a bad (or broken) ground connection inside the headlight shell.  Be careful poking around the wiring in other areas until you get this fixed. I doubt if the problem is some place other than in the headlight shell. Since the headlight works, I would suspect the green wire going into left side of SP35 on the schematic.

This is part of the schematic for the Hi-Beam indicator showing the 6P Mini Green connector and SP35.

[Oldnick]

Thanks for that. I was hoping somebody would guess: I had swapped the neutral and hi beam leads, or more to the point, left the other leads off and plugged the neutral lead onto the hi beam light. ZT that time I was hot, tired and rather sick of the mucking about and just assumed the worst and did not think.

Nick

[Oldnick]

Just a note that may be useful. The indicator dash light is fed volts with one polarirty for left indicator and the other polarity for right indicator. With a globe that does not matter, but with a LED it does. The solution is to install a diode bridge, with the 'AC" side to the sending wires and the "DC" side to the LED.

Hope that helps somebody

[MarkT]

Just a note that may be useful. The indicator dash light is fed volts with one polarirty for left indicator and the other polarity for right indicator. With a globe that does not matter, but with a LED it does. The solution is to install a diode bridge, with the 'AC" side to the sending wires and the "DC" side to the LED.

Hope that helps somebody

That is the "why" for the diode - turn signal indicator mod that is needed to change the front signals to LEDs.  Written up in a thread here, before. In a nutshell, the OEM flash indicator  circuit uses one indicator and gets it's ground through the opposite side turn signal bulb, which doesn't matter with incandescent bulbs.  It does matter with LEDs, because the tiny current that the indicator bulb will pass will also light the opposite side turn signal LED array on it's way to ground, as the LEDs only need a little juice to light up.  So you wind up with both signals flashing. Or alternatively, the indicator won't light up as the polarity is wrong going through the opposite side LED array. (I'm forgetting what behavior I got - it was a while ago and I get senior moments sometimes.) In either errant behavior, the solution is to install a diode on each side of the indicator, and send it's ground directly to ground, not through the opposite socket.   I went a bit further and used the elegant version of the mod, installed red LED diodes in the turn signal indicator to provide the  polarity needed for each side of the circuit, the grounds, and the lights in the indicator. Subsequently the amber LED 1157 arrays behind the clear lenses in the front markers work properly, save juice, and will never burn out while being brighter than incandescent.  And look better, IMHO.

Here's the one-indicator diode mod kit from Custom Dynamics:
http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm#Genesis_Metric_Cruiser_Diode_Kit

And their well-explained PDF on the circuit design and why it's needed:
http://www.customdynamics.com/instructions/MDK%20Tech%20sheet.pdf