brake pads what kind is best for valk?

[slider]

Thinking sintered maybe way to go..any ideas  out there?Thanks for your in put.

[Hook#3287]

I like OEM .  Used EBC once and didn't like the noise they produced.

[Tfrank59]

I like OEM .  Used EBC once and didn't like the noise they produced.

 

[Beardo]

I like OEM .  Used EBC once and didn't like the noise they produced.

What he said. 

[98valk]

search my posts on brake pads.

OEM are sintered bronze material.

[slider]

Thanks for input didn't want to use something that would increase rotor wear

[Bighead]

OEM  only for me.

[h13man]

Using EBC organic pads. No noise or loss of braking power. Longevity? don't know but stock lasted 20,000 mi. I used them on the 1100 Spirit and they did make noise but braked as well as stock.

[98valk]

Using EBC organic pads. No noise or loss of braking power. Longevity? don't know but stock lasted 20,000 mi. I used them on the 1100 Spirit and they did make noise but braked as well as stock.

street organic pads have slightly less braking power than sintered bronze. organics need heat to function at the same level. will only be a few feet but that few feet can be the difference.  race level organic pads have same stopping power as sintered bronze but need the heat of race track use to function at that level.
SB is best for the street it has been documented many times. if a bike has a small tire foot prints then organics might be better for an in-experience rider.

[..]

OEM.

[Cracker Jack]

Using EBC organic pads. No noise or loss of braking power. Longevity? don't know but stock lasted 20,000 mi. I used them on the 1100 Spirit and they did make noise but braked as well as stock.

street organic pads have slightly less braking power than sintered bronze. organics need heat to function at the same level. will only be a few feet but that few feet can be the difference.  race level organic pads have same stopping power as sintered bronze but need the heat of race track use to function at that level.
SB is best for the street it has been documented many times. if a bike has a small tire foot prints then organics might be better for an in-experience rider.

Help me out!

When you learned guys talk about breaking power and one type stopping a few feet quicker than another type, how does that work? I believe any type has enough friction to lock up the wheel within the gripping pressure of the average rider. The difference, I think, is how much gripping pressure is required to lock'em up .

If either type will lock them up, how can one type stop a few feet quicker than another type?

[h13man]

Using EBC organic pads. No noise or loss of braking power. Longevity? don't know but stock lasted 20,000 mi. I used them on the 1100 Spirit and they did make noise but braked as well as stock.

street organic pads have slightly less braking power than sintered bronze. organics need heat to function at the same level. will only be a few feet but that few feet can be the difference.  race level organic pads have same stopping power as sintered bronze but need the heat of race track use to function at that level.
SB is best for the street it has been documented many times. if a bike has a small tire foot prints then organics might be better for an in-experience rider.

Now how's the average rider going to know the difference if doesn't go out and get himself in situations over and over again thus bringing us to point that he shouldn't be riding a bike let alone a Valk. It is also well documented that sintered and metallic pads wear rotors at a greater rate. Is the difference that great to justify not using organic while rotor wear/costs with the frt. rotor @ $166 ea. and the rear @ $249? If one rides hard then I say go with the sintered etc. and pay the extra costs but alot of folk "own" a bike not "ride" it. These folk will throw money into a ride and not use it enough to appreciate it. Then theres folk like me that "ride" that don't ride hard that make choices for their ride to there needs and liking. Basically is to know your limits no matter how you ride.

[98valk]

Using EBC organic pads. No noise or loss of braking power. Longevity? don't know but stock lasted 20,000 mi. I used them on the 1100 Spirit and they did make noise but braked as well as stock.

street organic pads have slightly less braking power than sintered bronze. organics need heat to function at the same level. will only be a few feet but that few feet can be the difference.  race level organic pads have same stopping power as sintered bronze but need the heat of race track use to function at that level.
SB is best for the street it has been documented many times. if a bike has a small tire foot prints then organics might be better for an in-experience rider.

Help me out!

When you learned guys talk about breaking power and one type stopping a few feet quicker than another type, how does that work? I believe any type has enough friction to lock up the wheel within the gripping pressure of the average rider. The difference, I think, is how much gripping pressure is required to lock'em up .

If either type will lock them up, how can one type stop a few feet quicker than another type?

see my post and others

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,13708.0.html

[salty1]

OEM or EBC  organic pads. I've used both and equally as good IMO.  FWIW

[Valkpilot]

Using EBC organic pads. No noise or loss of braking power. Longevity? don't know but stock lasted 20,000 mi. I used them on the 1100 Spirit and they did make noise but braked as well as stock.

street organic pads have slightly less braking power than sintered bronze. organics need heat to function at the same level. will only be a few feet but that few feet can be the difference.  race level organic pads have same stopping power as sintered bronze but need the heat of race track use to function at that level.
SB is best for the street it has been documented many times. if a bike has a small tire foot prints then organics might be better for an in-experience rider.

Help me out!

When you learned guys talk about breaking power and one type stopping a few feet quicker than another type, how does that work? I believe any type has enough friction to lock up the wheel within the gripping pressure of the average rider. The difference, I think, is how much gripping pressure is required to lock'em up .

If either type will lock them up, how can one type stop a few feet quicker than another type?

see my post and others

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,13708.0.html

Organic pads need to heat up in order to achieve full braking potential.  While that's going on, the bike is still moving forward.  Sintered bronze pads have more initial bite, in other words, achieve full braking potential much sooner, so you stop in less distance.  Info posted by EBC (who makes both types) shows that these differences can be measured in tenths of a second and time is distance when braking.

Think about it this way: At 60 MPH, you're traveling 88 feet per second.  A tenth of a second lost while the pads heat up takes almost 9 feet.  That's half a pickup truck length sooner that the bike could have been brought to a stop. 

I'll take the extra 9 feet, please.

[Tfrank59]

Wow, that's good to know but scary to think about! 

[Ricky-D]

That's not really accurate because it assumes no braking at all for that time period. Actually you ARE braking,

only just not as intense and of course you are pulling or pushing the brake lever that much more heavily

because of the feedback you are receiving.

***

[davit]

Interesting.  So sintered pads stop the bike in a shorter distance when pads and rotors are in new condition.  Since most bikes don't receive religious maintenance, and eventually rotors wear, will said sintered pads still stop quicker with worn rotors vs non worn rotors with organic pads?

[98valk]

Interesting.  So sintered pads stop the bike in a shorter distance when pads and rotors are in new condition.  Since most bikes don't receive religious maintenance, and eventually rotors wear, will said sintered pads still stop quicker with worn rotors vs non worn rotors with organic pads?

pad and rotor material does not change as they wear. same braking performance for their life.
not like some tires that have a softer, better grip, faster wearing material near the wear bars.

http://ridermagazine.com/gear/dp-brake-pads-review.htm/

[Ricky-D]

I think you cannot equate worn and like new, with dirty (from road) and clean (like new). New will always stop

faster and better than old and dirty (from road). Sintered and the like will always stop better and faster than organic

pads regardless of condition of the rotor as long as there is proper contact between the rotor and the pads. The difference

that you experience between the different types of pads regarding their performance will depend quite a bit upon

your particular riding style. Aggressive riding ought to require better brakes, riding considerably in poor weather might

also be benefited with better braking. The only way to determine what you like is to try them on your bike. A set of pads

is not prohibitively expensive. The only true difference between pads of different material is how they will wear down the rotors.

In this regard, metallic, sintered pads wear the rotors the greatest while organic type pads are extremely rotor friendly.

***

[Valkpilot]

Yes, I used a simple calculation to illustrate the point.  The point remains valid.  Any time lost is extra distance traveled.

It takes 7 to 8 tenths of a second to START to stop.  This period includes recognizing that you need to stop, moving fingers from grips to levers and feet to pedals, and starting to squeeze on the brakes.  At 60 mph, that's 66 feet before the bike even begins to slow.  Now tack up to another 9 feet  on that while organic pads heat up and you're at almost 75 feet traveled before full braking really begins.

You can shave 2/10s, or 18 feet, by riding with clutch and front brake covered by a couple of fingers.  If another 9 feet can be shaved by having pads with good initial bite, that seems worth it to me.  The distance traveled before full braking potential is available has been now reduced to less than 50 feet.  Road surface, condition of your tires, how effectively the brakes are applied will determine the remaining distance to full stop (or impact.)

It's my opinion that riding style or locale is irrelevant to this subject.  Whether you're aggressive or laid back, ride urban commutes or back roads, at some point there will come a need to stop quickly, in as little distance as possible.  A deer suddenly jumping in front of you on a country road isn't really different (maybe worse) than a cage turning left in front of you in crowded city traffic.

Also, I think that rotor wear is perhaps a negligible concern provided you don't use sintered metallic pads that are harder than the OEM, if you've still got OEM rotors.  It takes lots of miles to wear them down.