99CF Clutch question

[Memor86]

Hello guys, im starting a new thread so it gets better attention from everyone (need opinions) and i also wish to address this specific issue.

When i got the bike, i had to pull the lever all the way to the grip really hard to be able to get the bike into first gear. the lever itself felt a bit lose and would only get tight at the very end of the travel. at the first take of it stalled because it was very sensitive. i could not feather it to take off smoothly.

no matter how hard i pull the lever it does not seem to touch the switch so i have to go to neutral every time.

i thought this was a simple adjustment of the master cylinder and bleeding the fluid.

this morning i moved the master cylinder all the way to the leftside as closest to the grip as possible flushed all the old fluid (reservoir was full so i doubt there are leaks somewhere) added new fluid and bleed with vacuum pump. i got all the air out the line but the feeling is the same. i have the carbs off so i cannot test ride it. but the lever gets stiff when its all the way to the grip. the lever does not seem to be bend.

my previous bike was a VFR and a 1200 Goldwing both with hydraulic clutch and i guess the lever should feel the same.

is there any known problem?. should i order the master cylinder rebuild kit? o this symptoms tell you anything?

[Chrisj CMA]

If the handle won't go all the way to the grip, it is a sign that the pressure plate inside the clutch is losing rivets...separating.

However, some other problems you described sound like a worn bushing on the handle itself.  I would change that first, see what you get.

[big poppa pump]

Did you service the clutch slave cylinder?

[gordonv]

What Chris was suggesting was the pivot "bolt" of the lever could be oval, and no longer is positioned correctly. You can search for that one, there is a nice picture somewhere (I'll look too).

This can also show up on the switch on the lever not being engaged.

My GW will do the same thing. When warming up, it clunks into first and will stall the bike if not enough rpm. When I have the bike up on the center stand, the rear wheel will spin when in neutral, or in gear but the clutch engaged.

Have also bleed the clutch, will do it again. It hasn't changed in 3 years.

[Gryphon Rider]

What Chris was suggesting was the pivot "bolt" of the lever could be oval, and no longer is positioned correctly. You can search for that one, there is a nice picture somewhere (I'll look too).

My GW will do the same thing. When warming up, it clunks into first and will stall the bike if not enough rpm. When I have the bike up on the center stand, the rear wheel will spin when in neutral, or in gear but the clutch engaged.

I'm not sure why it would spin in neutral, but it's not uncommon for a bike to lurch forward or even stall when first put into gear with the clutch lever in (clutch disengaged), when the bike is cold.  Here's what's happening:  When the clutch is engaged (lever out), strong springs are holding the clutch plates together.  Pulling in the lever removes the spring pressure allowing the driving and driven plates to move independently.  when the bike has been sitting for a while and the oil is cold, the thin layer of oil between the plates keeps the plates stuck together even though the spring pressure has been removed.  So you pull in the clutch lever and the clutch is still stuck together.  Then you put the transmission in gear, and now motion is applied to the driving plates, but the back tire on the ground is preventing the driven plates from moving.  The temporary lurch is the result of the force required to break the oil bond between the plates.

https://youtu.be/TcYsV063lk8

[gordonv]

 The temporary lurch is the result of the force required to break the oil bond between the plates.
https://youtu.be/TcYsV063lk8

That makes sense. It's like the water (oil) tension holding the parts together.