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Author Topic: u-joint boot install  (Read 1213 times)
salty1
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*****
Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« on: January 22, 2016, 04:33:46 AM »

I just finished replacing a u-joint on a friend's 98 std with only 28K miles. It surprised us how bad it was, about to grenade.  All went well except getting the boot back on the driveline tube. The swing arm was not removed and the new u-joint and boot were slipped in between the engine splines and the driveline tube.  The rear master cylinder and the right peg assembly were all out of the way but I still couldn't get the boot to attach properly. Too make a long story short,  I cut off most of the projecting rubber tabs (there's 3 of them) and used a small amount of lube.  I got the rubber lip of the boot started in the channel of the drive tube and turned it into place. It worked the first time.  The rubber tabs were my problem before as they restricted movement or would dislodge the boot lip from the channel when they hit a cross member.   The boot attachment to engine took no effort . I've tried the fold back method also without luck.
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Black Dog
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Posts: 2606


VRCC # 7111

Merton Wisconsin 53029


« Reply #1 on: January 22, 2016, 07:09:53 AM »

I know, too late, but next time it will be way easier to just buy a new boot...

I used every cuss word in the book, tried the roll method, tried lubing it up, walked away and tried the next day, and I finally ended up ripping the boot and ruined it  uglystupid2

I think it was Smokin' Joe that offered the advice to just get a new boot.  Lemme tell ya, it was soooo easy  cooldude  Ya see, the old boots are all at least 13 years old now (mine is a '97, and was 15 years old at the time).  The old rubber is/was stiff and impossible to get in to position, where the new boot is/was soft and pliable, and went on without any fuss at all.

Live n learn  Undecided

Black Dog
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big poppa pump
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Posts: 714


San Antonio, TX


« Reply #2 on: January 22, 2016, 07:18:12 AM »

^^^^ What he said!

Having read all the horror stories about people trying to install the old boot when replacing the u-joint, I bought a new boot when I was rebuilding my 2nd bike. Took me a whopping '1 Minute' to install the new boot. I know this doesn't help your original question but it will be so much easier to just buy a new boot and install it rather than deal with the aggravation of trying to make the old boot fit.
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1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

John Schmidt
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Posts: 15215


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #3 on: January 22, 2016, 07:56:47 AM »

I've never torn a boot or replaced it with a new one on any bike I've worked on. After pulling it off, clean it good then run some steaming hot water in a bucket or whatever and drop it in. Change the water periodically so it stays really hot, do this as you're going about your other repairs or cleaning/polishing, etc. Before installing the boot, make sure the swingarm is up high and level. The top of it runs quite close to a crossmember and makes it nearly impossible to slip the boot on if the s/a is hanging down. Then use your super long 45 degree needle nose pliers and go to work, the 45 deg. bend or a 90 deg. bend makes it much easier to grab the tabs. I don't turn or twist the boot, just keep spraying a good bit of regular rubbing alcohol at it, makes rubber slide across metal real easy. It's not the most fun you'll have  on a Valk, but the above process makes it a lot easier. I wouldn't use a heat gun to warm up the rubber, it won't be evenly heated and may tend to make the overheated spots more susceptible to tearing because of spotty weakness. This is just my method, your results may differ but it worked for me.  cooldude
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Bigwolf
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Posts: 1501


Cookeville, TN


« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2016, 08:35:13 AM »

I've never torn a boot or replaced it with a new one on any bike I've worked on. After pulling it off, clean it good then run some steaming hot water in a bucket or whatever and drop it in. Change the water periodically so it stays really hot, do this as you're going about your other repairs or cleaning/polishing, etc. Before installing the boot, make sure the swingarm is up high and level. The top of it runs quite close to a crossmember and makes it nearly impossible to slip the boot on if the s/a is hanging down. Then use your super long 45 degree needle nose pliers and go to work, the 45 deg. bend or a 90 deg. bend makes it much easier to grab the tabs. I don't turn or twist the boot, just keep spraying a good bit of regular rubbing alcohol at it, makes rubber slide across metal real easy. It's not the most fun you'll have  on a Valk, but the above process makes it a lot easier.  cooldude

That sounds like a good plan.  I bought a new boot after reading all the discouraging remarks on boot instalation.  It is still in the box on the shelf.  I have had the old boot off and put it back on several times.  I believe the swing arm position is the first part of the problem.  Unless it is level or above, it will be very difficult to get the boot between the swingarm and the crossmember.  I do not warm the boot up but I do lubricate it with a heavy dose of silicone spray lubricant.  This has woked well for me.  Your results may be different.
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old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2016, 03:39:31 PM »

When I R & Rd my U-joint I went the new boot route. Went fairly E Z-much more so than the old one I'm thinkin. Still have the old boot which someone/anyone can have-just pay shipping!  2funny RIDE SAFE.
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VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
Valkpilot
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Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2016, 03:08:12 PM »

I've never torn a boot or replaced it with a new one on any bike I've worked on. After pulling it off, clean it good then run some steaming hot water in a bucket or whatever and drop it in. Change the water periodically so it stays really hot, do this as you're going about your other repairs or cleaning/polishing, etc. Before installing the boot, make sure the swingarm is up high and level. The top of it runs quite close to a crossmember and makes it nearly impossible to slip the boot on if the s/a is hanging down. Then use your super long 45 degree needle nose pliers and go to work, the 45 deg. bend or a 90 deg. bend makes it much easier to grab the tabs. I don't turn or twist the boot, just keep spraying a good bit of regular rubbing alcohol at it, makes rubber slide across metal real easy. It's not the most fun you'll have  on a Valk, but the above process makes it a lot easier.  cooldude

That sounds like a good plan.  I bought a new boot after reading all the discouraging remarks on boot instalation.  It is still in the box on the shelf.  I have had the old boot off and put it back on several times.  I believe the swing arm position is the first part of the problem.  Unless it is level or above, it will be very difficult to get the boot between the swingarm and the crossmember.  I do not warm the boot up but I do lubricate it with a heavy dose of silicone spray lubricant.  This has woked well for me.  Your results may be different.

+1. 

I spray it with silicone and put it in a plastic bag while I do other stuff.  Makes it much easier to put back on.
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saddlesore
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Posts: 1579



« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2016, 03:29:19 PM »

  The last time I tried using some bicycle tire spoons (screw drivers would put a hole in it) and things went pretty good.  I also use the alcohol hand sanitizer for lubrication.

                     
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