Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 04, 2025, 12:05:45 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
VRCC Calendar Ad
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Dyna 3000 failure  (Read 4427 times)
Joe Vandal
Member
*****
Posts: 19


« on: September 15, 2009, 08:07:24 AM »

My Dyna 3000 has failed on me and I need a new ICM. However, Dynatek has stopped making the Dyna 3000 for the Valkyrie? Anyone know of a place that might have one setting on a shelf or an alternate product that will work?
Thanks!
Logged
Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2009, 08:11:46 AM »

Pinwall sells them all the time on E-Bay.  They would be the Honda variety.  Why not just put back the stock one you removed?

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Scott from FL, now in Maine
Member
*****
Posts: 241


Augusta, Maine


« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2009, 08:20:22 AM »

I second the stock idea, what advantages you might get from the Dyna don't exceed the benifit of having a reliable ride  Cool
Logged
Joe Vandal
Member
*****
Posts: 19


« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2009, 08:28:05 AM »

They were available a week ago on ebay, but no one has them any longer.
Stock is going back on if I can't find a source for the 3000. Would like to put the 3000 on for performance purposes since the Valk is blown already.
Logged
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2009, 08:33:46 AM »

They were available a week ago on ebay, but no one has them any longer.
Stock is going back on if I can't find a source for the 3000. Would like to put the 3000 on for performance purposes since the Valk is blown already.

It would be a cold in hell day before I would run a supercharged Valk without a way to retard the timing while in boost.

Perfect way to break pistons.
Logged
Joe Vandal
Member
*****
Posts: 19


« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2009, 08:37:26 AM »

So, any recommendations Jeff?
Logged
aviaator
Member
*****
Posts: 38


No. Virginia


« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2009, 08:44:45 AM »

Is this place sold out?

http://cruiserzone.com/dyna3000.html
Logged

'97 Tourer
'00 I/S
VRCC 27632
Southern Cruisers Manassas, VA Chapter
Joe Vandal
Member
*****
Posts: 19


« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2009, 08:54:15 AM »

cruiserzone does not have one...
Logged
aviaator
Member
*****
Posts: 38


No. Virginia


« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2009, 09:45:33 AM »

Damn...too bad  Undecided  That's the extent of my expertise...
Logged

'97 Tourer
'00 I/S
VRCC 27632
Southern Cruisers Manassas, VA Chapter
Patrick
Member
*****
Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2009, 10:14:08 AM »

The suggestion to install the original was a good one and I was about to mention installing one from an IS if you didn't have an ICM.. That is, until you mentioned the blower.. You gottz to have something that'll back off the timing just like Jeff stated.. That'll quickly ruin any pistons and the stock ones are not noted for there strength..
Logged
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2009, 10:15:33 AM »

I had a couple of them laying around, I have not seen them since I moved.  Undecided
Logged
Anthony
Member
*****
Posts: 198


Belgium


« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2009, 10:41:41 AM »

i recently purchased one from gm cycles
i don't find it listed on their ebay listing directly, but it's still on their own site.

http://www.gm-cycles.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/6005614/vpcsid/0/SFV/32653

i was very pleased with their direct & international shipping.

i haven't installed it yet

Anthony
Logged
BlueValk
Member
*****
Posts: 108


Albuquerque, NM


WWW
« Reply #12 on: September 15, 2009, 12:12:54 PM »

If you can't get a replacement, you could mechanically retard the timing with a modified trigger wheel.  Then install the ECT mod to bring the timing back to normal (+/- to your taste).  When in boost, ground out the ECT advance.  True, that above 3500, there is no ECT advance. But by then, you might normally be in boost, anyway.
Just a thought ...
BlueValk
Logged
Joe Vandal
Member
*****
Posts: 19


« Reply #13 on: September 15, 2009, 12:57:43 PM »

GM Cycles is a no go as well. Does anyone know if I could ship this one off that I presently have and have it repaired?
Logged
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #14 on: September 15, 2009, 01:34:13 PM »

GM Cycles is a no go as well. Does anyone know if I could ship this one off that I presently have and have it repaired?

No, they can't repair them. They are potted.
one solid block
Logged
RUDE DOG - Steelers
Member
*****
Posts: 757


New Jersey - VRCC # 3966


« Reply #15 on: September 15, 2009, 01:34:44 PM »

When I got mine I was having problems with starting my bike when it was warm.  I sent it back to Dyna and they said the unit tested fine but that the units for the Valkyrie as a whole were problematic and some just didnt work well with certain bikes.  So they offered to buy it back from me for my full price so I took the offer.  Still like to get another one eventually and try to make it work but for not I just put my IS ICU back in.
Logged

Chillerman
Member
*****
Posts: 689


Golden, CO


« Reply #16 on: September 15, 2009, 02:47:12 PM »

How about this place?

http://www.bulldogscustomcycle.com/servlet/the-34/Dyna-3000-Ignition/Detail
Logged

The problem with Socialists is they eventually run out of other people's money to spend!

Some people are too stupid to realize how ignorant they are.
Chillerman
Member
*****
Posts: 689


Golden, CO


« Reply #17 on: September 15, 2009, 03:02:43 PM »

Or this one:

http://www.metricthunder.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=DY
Logged

The problem with Socialists is they eventually run out of other people's money to spend!

Some people are too stupid to realize how ignorant they are.
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #18 on: September 15, 2009, 04:17:02 PM »

When I got mine I was having problems with starting my bike when it was warm.  I sent it back to Dyna and they said the unit tested fine but that the units for the Valkyrie as a whole were problematic and some just didnt work well with certain bikes.  So they offered to buy it back from me for my full price so I took the offer.  Still like to get another one eventually and try to make it work but for not I just put my IS ICU back in.

It has to do with the voltage from the pickups.
The trigger voltage for the dyna was lower than the Voltage that SOME Valkyries put out.
I did product testing for them during development. I had boxes that wouldn't work at all or had intermittent miss fires. I found that by tweaking my pulse generators to get max voltage out of them the Dynas worked better.
The stock ICM is much more forgiving to voltage variations.
Logged
stude31
Member
*****
Posts: 1100


Topeka,ks


« Reply #19 on: September 15, 2009, 06:20:13 PM »

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=D3K1-1&click=37735

262.00 but if you gotta have it...is price an option???  

or

http://www.bulldogscustomcycle.com/servlet/the-Honda-Cruiser-cln-VALKYRIE/Categories

225.00
« Last Edit: September 15, 2009, 06:22:10 PM by stude31 » Logged

Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #20 on: September 16, 2009, 04:53:58 AM »

Jeff,
Please tell me how to do that. (tweaking the pulse generators) I've had problems with mine that seemed to only be when temps were 95 degrees and above for some reason. Also started mucho easiero with the stock unit.
  I'm still not willing to give it up, I love it. It gives me the edge, out of the hole and eliminated my horrible flat spot.

You need a volt meter that will read "peak voltage" a standard VOM it has to read peak voltage.
Then follow the instructions in the manual.
Check the voltage at each pickup.
I had one pickup that was low, still in Honda spec, but lower than the other. I took a look at them and the offending pickup looked like it was tweaked a bit so it wasn't sitting square. I bent the mount back a little and the voltage reading shot way up. It made a big difference.
Be careful with those pickups they can break if you put too much pressure on the plastic housing.'
Inspect the pickups for cracks, I have seen a few crack and show problems after they warm up.
Logged
ExtremeAcres
Member
*****
Posts: 11


« Reply #21 on: June 12, 2015, 08:14:39 PM »

Sorry to bring up such an old thread...but my valk (blown) with a dyna3000 has started missing on cyl 1 and 2...intermittently...Im scared its the dyna...but would like to check everything else first...i already replaced coil packs 1 and 2 and put new plugs in...still missing....what "pickups" are you guys talking about checking peak voltage ? I have a manual and im gonna look there next....but thought Id ask on here also...tia
Logged
Bagger John - #3785
Member
*****
Posts: 1952



« Reply #22 on: June 13, 2015, 04:15:08 AM »

Sorry to bring up such an old thread...but my valk (blown) with a dyna3000 has started missing on cyl 1 and 2...intermittently...Im scared its the dyna...but would like to check everything else first...i already replaced coil packs 1 and 2 and put new plugs in...still missing....what "pickups" are you guys talking about checking peak voltage ? I have a manual and im gonna look there next....but thought Id ask on here also...tia
Look at the front of a Valkyrie engine. See the cam belt cover and (on a stock bike) the cylindrical cover in the center? The pickups (Hall-effect sensors) sit under that.

Your bike has an extra pulley added for the blower drive and the timing cover is usually modified to accommodate this but the pickup location remains the same.
Logged
BonS
Member
*****
Posts: 2198


Blue Springs, MO


WWW
« Reply #23 on: June 13, 2015, 06:10:23 AM »

I put a "wanted" add in our classifieds a few years ago and was able to purchase a Dyna pretty quickly. Just be prepared to pony up for it. Probably somewhere around $300+.

Is yous wrapped in a rubber sleeve? It was thought to retain heat and cook the Dyna causing its demise. The solution was to simply remove it.
Logged

98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13476


South Jersey


« Reply #24 on: June 13, 2015, 07:36:44 AM »

see my post and pic how I mounted the Dyna without the rubber boot. talking with the original owners of dyna back then they told me about the heat buildup. They also told me that the valkyrie dyna has the same internals as their 4000? race unit for inline 4s. heat is its only enemy. I had a problem with my first one, they sent a replacement installed it as below, that was about 10 yrs ago and 30k miles, never a problem since.
I'm always looking for a spare though.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,18653.0.html
Logged

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
ExtremeAcres
Member
*****
Posts: 11


« Reply #25 on: June 13, 2015, 09:01:55 AM »

Thanks guys...im gonna work on both of those things !
Logged
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #26 on: June 13, 2015, 08:05:45 PM »

I have a couple of those laying around, I'll have to hook them up to my Stock IS and see if they are still good. I don't know why they wouldn't be but I haven't had a need for one in a very long time.
Logged
ExtremeAcres
Member
*****
Posts: 11


« Reply #27 on: June 13, 2015, 08:15:29 PM »

Thank you Jeff...I would buy one....I put my stock ign box on today and all 6 cyls purred perfectly....I added some octane boost to fuel and rode a somewhat gentle 40mi...no knocks or pings...but I wont be able to be so gentle forever...lol....thanks again, Christian 6158122826...feel free to text me price and paypal info
Logged
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #28 on: June 13, 2015, 08:19:04 PM »

I'd still check the peak voltage. The Dyna needs more voltage to fire than the stock unit.
Logged
ExtremeAcres
Member
*****
Posts: 11


« Reply #29 on: June 13, 2015, 08:39:12 PM »

Ok...will do...
Logged
ExtremeAcres
Member
*****
Posts: 11


« Reply #30 on: June 14, 2015, 10:01:54 AM »

My voltmeter is an Innova 3310+ ....not sure if it has peak volt capability Sad ...will have to look into it more
Logged
BonS
Member
*****
Posts: 2198


Blue Springs, MO


WWW
« Reply #31 on: June 14, 2015, 10:36:29 AM »

Any volt meter will work for you. You're just looking to see if your running voltage is around ~14 volts DC at around 2000+ rpm. Any healthy alternator and battery combination will give your this voltage.
Logged

Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #32 on: June 14, 2015, 06:01:35 PM »

Not peak battery voltage. Peak voltage put out by EACH pickup. I'm traveling so I don't have my notes with me. But I think the Honda EMU needs .75v and the Dyna needs 1.5 v You need a meter that can read peak voltage. The sensors can be "tweaked" to bring the voltage up if they are low. But if they are bad they will need to be replaced.


Logged
BonS
Member
*****
Posts: 2198


Blue Springs, MO


WWW
« Reply #33 on: June 14, 2015, 06:50:42 PM »

Not peak battery voltage. Peak voltage put out by EACH pickup. I'm traveling so I don't have my notes with me. But I think the Honda EMU needs .75v and the Dyna needs 1.5 v You need a meter that can read peak voltage. The sensors can be "tweaked" to bring the voltage up if they are low. But if they are bad they will need to be replaced.

Thanks Jeff for the clarification. I should have read the entire thread so see where you're coming from.

Some meters do have a min/max peak-hold feature that should work well. I'd rather use an oscilloscope but that's me. A Fluke 87V DVM will capture a 1/4 millisecond voltage event. The units displayed on the LCD readout, however, are RMS volts which are about 70% of the peak voltage so the actual peak voltage is 1.4 times this value.
Logged

ExtremeAcres
Member
*****
Posts: 11


« Reply #34 on: June 15, 2015, 10:31:17 AM »

Thanks Jeff...I couldnt fi d those specs i the shop manual...so is the pickup that gets tweaked if you test low valtage ? Or the teeth on the timing sprocket(trigger wheel) ?....if I cannot find a readily available "peak voltmeter" should I maybe just try and adjust pickup for closest (and most "in line") alignment with trigger wheel ? ...(like do it visually ? Or with a feeler guage maybe) ? Just a thought...Thanks again for all the valuable info...
Logged
98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13476


South Jersey


« Reply #35 on: June 15, 2015, 11:37:33 AM »

Thanks Jeff...I couldnt fi d those specs i the shop manual...so is the pickup that gets tweaked if you test low valtage ? Or the teeth on the timing sprocket(trigger wheel) ?....if I cannot find a readily available "peak voltmeter" should I maybe just try and adjust pickup for closest (and most "in line") alignment with trigger wheel ? ...(like do it visually ? Or with a feeler guage maybe) ? Just a thought...Thanks again for all the valuable info...

u adjust the pickups by bending the brackets.
Logged

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #36 on: June 15, 2015, 04:10:34 PM »

It wasn't the gap that I found to be the problem it was the alignment, to square up the sensor to the tooth of the wheel
Logged
ExtremeAcres
Member
*****
Posts: 11


« Reply #37 on: July 04, 2015, 03:20:58 PM »

Ok...i finally got to it...and getting pulley off was a PIA...I found something that could be my issue...opinions ? When i got the pulley off...the key is still in it...the back of the key is NOT flush with pulley...it protudes out maybe 1mm...it also seems like it indented and shoved the location tab on the trigger wheel a bit(.5mm maybe) making me think my trigger wheel could have been warbling a little...have you ever seen this ? I dont think my trigger wheel was sandwiched perfect....should I clean up key protrusion and location tab on trigger wheel first ? To try and get trigger wheel sandwiched properly ? Also...there are only 2 pickups...which one is for cyl 1 and2 ? TIA
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: