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Author Topic: Torque value for shock bolts  (Read 2210 times)
KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« on: September 15, 2009, 01:41:28 PM »

In  my cd manual it called for the upper bolts to be 2 different values.  Angry  uglystupid2 The blowup diagram at the beginning of the chapter said 20 ft lbs. while in the chapter where I looked said 47 ft lbs. Needless to say, I broke the bolt. Got it out and thought I'd get another hex nut bolt at lowes when I get everything else buttoned up. Well when torqueing the lower bolt on the right side which calls for 17 ft lbs it twisted the head off as well.  Angry  Aaargh, I got it out after some work and am now waiting to button things up when the bolts come in. Ordered them as that was a saddle  bolt on the bottom. decided I wasn't torqueing the shock bolts again. I'll just tighten them to what the racthet snuggs them up too. Was hoping to take it for a spin and see how the new final drive and wheel bearings feel, but am stuck waiting on parts now til the 21st.   tickedoff

What have/do you guys do as far as torqueing the shock bolts??  coolsmiley
« Last Edit: September 15, 2009, 02:09:40 PM by Misunderstood » Logged
fudgie
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« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2009, 01:59:00 PM »

Tighten them till I see fit.
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2009, 02:02:20 PM »

I'm sure you're talking about the rear shocks.

At the top there are two bolts!  What description you use is conjecture unless each bolt is individually identified as such.

I would consider the large bolt that threads into the frame and onto which the shock absorber slides to be the "shock bolt"

The smaller bolt with the keeper that threads into the shock bolt I would not consider the shock bolt.

Looking at the two bolts, and with the torque figures in hand, it should be pretty simple to determine which bolt gets which torque.

Actually I would not trust a torque wrench unless it has been accurately calibrated and then only if using new bolts.

I prefer to rely on my own feel to safely tighten fasteners.

No criticism here,  just sayin'

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Ken Tarver
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North Mississippi


« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2009, 02:10:05 PM »

my cd says 20 for the uppers (both sides),  left lower 25,    right lower 17

sorry about your problem

do me a favor, go back and look at that 47 lb reference again
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Ken Tarver
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North Mississippi


« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2009, 02:12:31 PM »

the only 47 lb values i find is for the:

side stand bracket bolt.
final gear case mount nut.
handlebar lower holder nut.
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2009, 02:18:19 PM »

14-1

Under specifications it has upper and lower shock mounting bolts. it does say to the left of the upper shock mounting bolt UBS nut, so I guess Rick-D is correct in that it refers to the large nut attaching the frame, but then that means it gives no value for the upper bolts holding the shock to the mount at that location while it has the lower values. Just threw me and is fixable.  Cool
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Black Dog
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« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2009, 02:25:36 PM »

Sounds like yer on the right track now, but what I try to do, that always works, is torque the bolt to about 1/4 turn before it breaks  Grin

Hope you get a ride in soon...

Black Dog
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quexpress
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« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2009, 02:26:51 PM »

14-1

Under specifications it has upper and lower shock mounting bolts. it does say to the left of the upper shock mounting bolt UBS nut, so I guess Rick-D is correct in that it refers to the large nut attaching the frame, but then that means it gives no value for the upper bolts holding the shock to the mount at that location while it has the lower values. Just threw me and is fixable.  Cool
Glad to see that you have it fixed. that 47 lbs spec is misleading ... and you are not the first one to have broken that bolt.
Note: Other than on very critical items (head bolts, etc.), I do not use the torque wrench for anything on the Valk ..... and have been doing that on all the bikes that I have maintained (mine and others) for the past 7 years. I find this much easier to do and safer.  Smiley
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2009, 02:27:13 PM »

Sounds like yer on the right track now, but what I try to do, that always works, is torque the bolt to about 1/4 turn before it breaks  Grin

Hope you get a ride in soon...

Black Dog

Thanks  cooldude
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Ken Tarver
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North Mississippi


« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2009, 02:28:40 PM »

yikes misunderstood!

i see that on page 14-1...the 47 lbs that is.
then on 14-9 it has the 20lb value.

in section one where all values are listed it has 20 lb for the uppers


Ken
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2009, 02:29:15 PM »

14-1

Under specifications it has upper and lower shock mounting bolts. it does say to the left of the upper shock mounting bolt UBS nut, so I guess Rick-D is correct in that it refers to the large nut attaching the frame, but then that means it gives no value for the upper bolts holding the shock to the mount at that location while it has the lower values. Just threw me and is fixable.  Cool
Glad to see that you have it fixed. that 47 lbs spec is misleading ... and you are not the first one to have broken that bolt.
Note: Other than on very critical items (head bolts, etc.), I do not use the torque wrench for anything on the Valk ..... and have been doing that on all the bikes that I have maintained (mine and others) for the past 7 years. I find this much easier to do and safer.  Smiley

Yeah, that's good advice. Just the first time I ever dug in this deep wrenching and was trying to do it right. Feeling much more confident doing everything myself after doing this work.  cooldude
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2009, 02:32:08 PM »

yikes misunderstood!

i see that on page 14-1...the 47 lbs that is.
then on 14-9 it has the 20lb value.

in section one where all values are listed it has 20 lb for the uppers


Ken

But right under the 47 lbs. it lists the lowers and nothing else about the uppers. A little confusing, but guess I got it figured out and can guaruntee I won't make the mistake a 2nd time.  cooldude
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dalai-lama
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« Reply #12 on: September 15, 2009, 05:26:55 PM »

On a friends bike and even had another friend right there telling me "that's way too much torque" but me being a stupid software guy at the time (still a software guy but not quite so stupid), proceeded to crank on it and there she broke.

Over the last 9 years working on a few bikes I have a much better feel and appreciation of what torque for what types of bolt and I have not broke one since. 

So don't feel bad about that one. 

the dalai
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the dalai
alan
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« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2009, 12:04:24 AM »

Torque? We don't need no stinkin' torque, man. I got a calibrated arm. There's snug, tight, really tight, and crank it down, vato.
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #14 on: September 16, 2009, 01:23:06 AM »

Torque? We don't need no stinkin' torque, man. I got a calibrated arm. There's snug, tight, really tight, and crank it down, vato.

Now dat thars funny  2funny
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AussieValk
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Gold Coast, Australia


« Reply #15 on: September 19, 2009, 11:31:54 PM »

Dammit......I hate shock bolts!  Angry

I read this thread last week and made a mental note of the torque values.........well, it appears my mental isn't working properly 'cause I snapped the bolt off......stupid manual got me confused as well.  tickedoff  Knew I shoulda checked here again first but no, gotta rush the job, well I learned my lesson, now to get the bolt out.

And another thing, how the hell do you get a socket onto the four bolts on the driveshaft to torque them with the tyre in place?? They're now tight as my arm would go with a ring spanner........I reckon the Japs have different tools to us!  Grin
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Bone
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« Reply #16 on: September 20, 2009, 03:53:55 AM »

I follow qexpress post there isn't room for the tourque wrench.


Note: Other than on very critical items (head bolts, etc.), I do not use the torque wrench for anything on the Valk ..... and have been doing that on all the bikes that I have maintained (mine and others) for the past 7 years. I find this much easier to do and safer.   
 
 
 
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #17 on: September 20, 2009, 07:49:22 AM »

And another thing, how the hell do you get a socket onto the four bolts on the driveshaft to torque them with the tyre in place??
Hint:

Thin-wall sockets and several lengths of drive extensions are your friends...  Wink
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alan
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« Reply #18 on: September 20, 2009, 10:23:16 AM »

Unless you know how to calculate for the slop and lost torque of the extensions you are no better off than if you just did it by "deductive arm reckoning".

For some fun and to kill time put a metal plate with a hole in it in a vise and then put a 3/8 or 1/2 bolt (not the head and nut, but the diameter of the bolt thread) through the hole. Then grab your ring spanner and tighten it to snug, tight, real tight, or just crank it down, vato. Then use your torque wrench to see how much torque you actually put on the fastener.

Before retiring I worked as a Master Millwright, pipefitter and heavy duty machine mechanic, so I learned a bit about twist. How much twist can a person generate with hand wrenches? During a plant emergency with the money meter running at about a quarter million dollars a minute I broke seven out of twelve 3/8 stainless steel flange bolts using hand wrenches. You don't need to pull on a little mild steel fastener with lock washers until your eyes bulge out and your eyes muscles cramp. The same with tiny phillips head screws....... a little twist will get it done, ladies.
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