RDKLL
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Posts: 1222
VRCC #1231 VRCCDS #271
Mesa, AZ
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« on: February 18, 2016, 03:45:02 AM » |
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Someone posted about the high speed tank slapper that he survived and will be changing head bearings. I remember a hundred years ago (maybe not that long ago) but a way to test the head bearings: while the bike is on the lift, hold the handlebars straight and let go and let gravity take over and if the front end hits the stop and stays its good...if it hits the stop and bounces, thats bad...and need to be replaced
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2016, 03:49:49 AM » |
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I thought the manual states something like 5/7 lbs of resistance when the front end is lifted.
So the bars shouldn't move without a push.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2016, 04:46:34 AM » |
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I don't know if there is any "easy" way to mess with the steering head.  When I went back later and retorqued mine, I kind of cheated. I jacked the bike up until the front suspension was neutral... wheel not lifted off the ground, but pretty much no weight on it. Then I removed the stuff (handlebars, top bridge, I don't remember what all) needed to get to the steering head nut and lock nut and retighten them. You could do this much and find out if your nut and lock nut are loose... In my cheater plan, jacking the front end up to neutral was key, there was no getting the top bridge back on with weight on the bike, there was enough flex that I couldn't get stuff to line up... -Mike
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Fazer
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« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2016, 05:16:13 AM » |
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Holy flying crap-- that looks like a lot of work!
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Nothing in moderation...
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98valk
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« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2016, 05:27:45 AM » |
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Someone posted about the high speed tank slapper that he survived and will be changing head bearings. I remember a hundred years ago (maybe not that long ago) but a way to test the head bearings: while the bike is on the lift, hold the handlebars straight and let go and let gravity take over and if the front end hits the stop and stays its good...if it hits the stop and bounces, thats bad...and need to be replaced
didn't see that post, But I would believe it was a tire issue, underinflated or a bad tire, which would cause a tank slapper and not the bearings. these bikes are heavy with a good bias on the front wheel.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2016, 05:53:57 AM » |
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With the bike on the lift turn the bars side to side. A sensitive touch will feel any wear in the bearings as a slight "catch" or pause.
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WintrSol
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« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2016, 07:08:45 AM » |
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Also, while lifted, grab the forks at the axle and pull them side to side or front to back; there should be little to no sensation of clunk, which, if present, would indicate looseness or wear in the bearings.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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Firefighter
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« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2016, 03:17:37 PM » |
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My IS would hunt at 20 to 35 mph, could not get it just to go straight. Everything felt good at hiway speed, but slow down in town and I had to constantly move the handlebars, little steering inputs to ride straight. If I was tired it could be difficult.
When I lifted the front tire and steer it back and forth, could never feel any looseness or indexed spots, but when I removed the front wheel and especially the forks (took the weight off), wow! I could feel the indexed bearings then, felt like they had a spring and ball detent. The triple tree would almost lock into forward position. I replaced them and it cured that hunting problem. Bike had a little over 46000 miles at that time.
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red 2006 Honda Sabre 1100 2013 Honda Spirit 750 2002 Honda Rebel 250 1978 Honda 750
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« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2016, 03:20:08 PM » |
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My IS would hunt at 20 to 35 mph, could not get it just to go straight. Everything felt good at hiway speed, but slow down in town and I had to constantly move the handlebars, little steering inputs to ride straight. If I was tired it could be difficult.
When I lifted the front tire and steer it back and forth, could never feel any looseness or indexed spots, but when I removed the front wheel and especially the forks (took the weight off), wow! I could feel the indexed bearings then, felt like they had a spring and ball detent. The triple tree would almost lock into forward position. I replaced them and it cured that hunting problem. Bike had a little over 46000 miles at that time.
Yep that's what I was getting at in my post. Old Brit bikes were very prone to this at very low mileage.
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Firefighter
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« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2016, 03:50:29 PM » |
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Yea, I know it was Britman, I was just more windy than you!
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red 2006 Honda Sabre 1100 2013 Honda Spirit 750 2002 Honda Rebel 250 1978 Honda 750
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« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2016, 05:07:10 PM » |
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Yea, I know it was Britman, I was just more windy than you!
I know. I'm glad you posted your reply. Helps others identify problems.
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lucky_1_chris
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« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2016, 06:49:07 PM » |
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My IS would hunt at 20 to 35 mph, could not get it just to go straight. Everything felt good at hiway speed, but slow down in town and I had to constantly move the handlebars, little steering inputs to ride straight. If I was tired it could be difficult.
When I lifted the front tire and steer it back and forth, could never feel any looseness or indexed spots, but when I removed the front wheel and especially the forks (took the weight off), wow! I could feel the indexed bearings then, felt like they had a spring and ball detent. The triple tree would almost lock into forward position. I replaced them and it cured that hunting problem. Bike had a little over 46000 miles at that time.
Yup. All becomes evident with the weight removed.
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2016 Victory Cross Country Tour
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