Float valves

[Hook#3287]

Any one know the dif between these float valves?  "Jetsrus.com" shows they both are compatible with Valk carbs?


021-862K  $5.75 each     https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021_862K_su.html

18-8955  $8.99 each     https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/KL_18_8955.html

It seems the difference is the bottom one says KL

Any other source that's suggested?

[sandy]

I didn't look at your links but K&L is an aftermarket parts supplier for MC parts. I use their fork seals with no problems.

[Ramie]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KOD732?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

[Hook#3287]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KOD732?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

I did a google search and those jets showed up, 6 jets, 2 k1, 2 k2 & 2 k3.  Nothing else.  Don't know why I couldn't find this listing.

Thanks Ramie

[StagByTriumph]

According to "Mike" at JetsRus, he says the valves are the same, and they are manufactured by Keyster. 

He says
"if 18-2574 and 18-8955 are K&L kits and should both have the same float needle, which is a keyster.  021-862k is a keyster valve.  Therefore all three of those parts should contain identical float needles"

However, I have had problems with these valves sticking on my CB900C, as others have too.  We believe it is due to the part not being the same manufacturer as Genuine Honda parts and something is not in tolerance from the OE valve. 
Problem is, the OE Genuine Honda valve is $26 EACH.  Times 4 or times 6, kind of pricey, but if the aftermarket stuff has problems, buying the Genuine part in this case might be money well spent.
For my bike the Honda Genuine Part Number is 16155-413-751 code 0826990 which I think is period correct for the Valkyrie same "model" carb - VB43A

Anyone else have the same problem of after market parts or these float valves not working well?

Cheers!
Glenn
aka StagByTriumph

[BonS]

Many here, including myself, have used K&L float needles. They can be found on Amazon here for $21 for all six:

http://www.amazon.com/Supply-18-8955-Float-Needle-K3-Keihin/dp/B001KOD732/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458342674&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=valkyrie+float+valves

They have a good strong spring and always work well. If Valkyrie float needles fail it seems to always be by not closing.

[Brian]

When I replaced my leaking valves in 2006 I went with OEM, yes pricey at $19 each but have never had any more issues to date. The parts guy told me he had heard that some have tried soaking the float valves in transmission fluid for a few days with good luck. Just passing this alone as I did not try it. Good luck if you try this.

[Hook#3287]

Many here, including myself, have used K&L float needles. They can be found on Amazon here for $21 for all six:

http://www.amazon.com/Supply-18-8955-Float-Needle-K3-Keihin/dp/B001KOD732/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458342674&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=valkyrie+float+valves

They have a good strong spring and always work well. If Valkyrie float needles fail it seems to always be by not closing.

Those are the ones I purchased.  I now have a few extra sets.

[Hook#3287]

The parts guy told me he had heard that some have tried soaking the float valves in transmission fluid for a few days with good luck. Just passing this alone as I did not try it. Good luck if you try this.

Thanks for the info.  Thinking if I'm going thru all the work of pulling the carbs, it's new for me.

I learned that lesson years ago on the slow's, tried cleaning em, (soaked in gumout, cleaned with individual wire brush strands, compressed air)  just to have them continue to make her run badly.   Swapped em w/new and she was back up to snuff.

[Brian]

The parts guy told me he had heard that some have tried soaking the float valves in transmission fluid for a few days with good luck. Just passing this alone as I did not try it. Good luck if you try this.

Thanks for the info.  Thinking if I'm going thru all the work of pulling the carbs, it's new for me.

I learned that lesson years ago on the slow's, tried cleaning em, (soaked in gumout, cleaned with individual wire brush strands, compressed air)  just to have them continue to make her run badly.   Swapped em w/new and she was back up to snuff.

When the parts guy told me this I told him if I am going to do this work I am not experimenting so I replaced them. Cheaper than a hydrolock repair.