bike won't start

[j_voracek]

I have an issue that I can't figure out. I turn on the key, the instrument cluster lights come on, the parking lights come on, but no headlight and no power at the starter switch. New battery, fully charged All fuses test good, starter solenoid tests ok. Trouble shooting from the repair manual says to check for continuity between green/red wire and ground. I have non there, but it doesn't say what to do if you don't have continuity. Any suggestions? 

[Bighead]

Starter switch take it apart and clean it. Sometimes if you will flip it it will work but sounds like it needs to be cleaned

[j_voracek]

Thanks, will that also account for the head light not coming on? I have noticed that the switch seems to stick, how would you recommend cleaning it?

[gordonv]

There is an article in Shop Talk. Also search is your friend. Not home, so can't do it for you.

Sounds like the old grease is dry and holding things back. Don't loose the small springs, they need to move freely in their hole to push the plate to make contact.

[j_voracek]

Thank you, I will search shop talk and see what I can do

[Moonshot_1]

Couple of things. Yes it is the starter button and the shop talk instructions on cleaning it is a great resource. Read them a couple of times over and then go and do it. Not hard, just take  your time.
It also may not work the first time and you will have to take it apart again (same session) and that is normal for me.

And yes, the headlight circuit runs through the switch. So your headlight may not come on.
Sometimes wiggling the switch as you press it will start the bike.

Other thing seeing as you are in Owatonna, Mn.

Do you happen to know a Paul Bloomberg? Works at the HyVee there and used to have a silver 97 Valk.
He used to be the Asst. Manager here in Cherokee.
Worked with him. His was the first Valk I ever rode and I knew I had to get one.

[Ricky-D]

An item often forgotten to be mentioned while working on any switch is to be working over an area where if a part is

dropped, will be easy to find. Springs and such are very small and often slip and fall away. Protect against such an occurrence

by working over a large sheet or similar covering so if a part falls it will be easily found.

***

[Moonshot_1]

An item often forgotten to be mentioned while working on any switch is to be working over an area where if a part is

dropped, will be easy to find. Springs and such are very small and often slip and fall away. Protect against such an occurrence

by working over a large sheet or similar covering so if a part falls it will be easily found.

***

Wouldn't worry about it. It'll be in one of two places. Either the part will be where you can see it but not get it, or where you could get it if you could see it.
How hard could it be?

[Paladin528]

I replaced my Grips a few weeeks ago and while I was in there I took apart the swtiches and cleaned them.  My kill switch has always been finicky and now I know why.  It was corroded and burnt.  I cleaned it all up and now it works smooth.
HINT:  Brass contacts are easily cleaned of corrosion using an "Ink eraser", the blue ones that are a little gritty.  Cleans the contacts perfectly.

[..]

An item often forgotten to be mentioned while working on any switch is to be working over an area where if a part is

dropped, will be easy to find. Springs and such are very small and often slip and fall away. Protect against such an occurrence

by working over a large sheet or similar covering so if a part falls it will be easily found.

***

Yep there's small bits in there that go boing into the wild blue yonder. Take it apart slowly.

[j_voracek]

Thank you for all the help, but I ended up having to buy a new switch, the shunt was melted in to the point I bent it up trying get it apart.

[Bighead]

There is to much power going through that switch on start up that causes the melt down. BonS ( one of the advertisers at the top of the page) sells an item that will correct this and keep it from happening again.
Smart switch.
http://thedigisync.com/index.html

[Cracker Jack]

There is to much power going through that switch on start up that causes the melt down. BonS ( one of the advertisers at the top of the page) sells an item that will correct this and keep it from happening again.
Smart switch.
http://thedigisync.com/index.html

The truth of the matter is that on start up, only the CURRENT thru the switch is for the starter relay which is relatively small. The damaging current is for the headlight which passes at all times other than on start up. This does not apply to Interstates.

[Bighead]

WTHE

[pancho]

There is to much power going through that switch on start up that causes the melt down. BonS ( one of the advertisers at the top of the page) sells an item that will correct this and keep it from happening again.
Smart switch.
http://thedigisync.com/index.html

The truth of the matter is that on start up, only the CURRENT thru the switch is for the starter relay which is relatively small. The damaging current is for the headlight which passes at all times other than on start up. This does not apply to Interstates.

The further truth of the matter is that many times it is the owner installed accessories that are connected to the headlight circuit that cause the additional current flow through the switch that cause the meltdowns,, running lights etc.