High Pitch Shrill From Front of Engine

[gordonv]

As a note for those who may be wanting to attempt this too, after messing with anything with regards to the front, ALWAYs rotate the engine by hand 4 complete revolutions (?), then recheck your alignment marks again.

Any resistance, then reverse back to your alignment marks, and recheck them.

[pancho]

Hey Ron,, I am not going to add any technical advice to this, there is already enough available,, I just hope you have a way to get to work.         Get everything lined up when you get a chance, and see what you have going on. The good news is, if you have boogered up your motor, the heads are easy to remove and repair. Might want to leave it until you have some time and are rested up.

[RonW]

I stayed up until 1am last night fixing my Shadow 600 (Iron Horse). Iron Horse hasn't run for 8+ months becuz I hadn't fixed her due to the work schedule but she's my daily rider otherwise. As I said I don't have a car. At any rate, I test rode Iron Horse from 1am until 2am around the neighborhood, have to insure it's safe to ride on the commute to work on the freeway. Woke up at 4am and rode to work after 2 unpaid days off if things weren't expensive enough.

Feel free to express your opinions, my plan is to remove the right cylinder head from the engine, buy new valves, guides, seals etc, and take the cylinder head into a mechanic shop and have them install the new valves and things on the old cylinder head. Then plop the renovated cylinder head back onto the engine, myself. I don't think I should risk taking the whole bike to the mechanic for example, they'll break the muffler/header bolts, plus they'll have to tow the bike. Of course, I'll inspect the top of the pistons and vacuum the cylinders for any stray metal particles. If they actually sold brand new cylinder heads with valves attached I'd buy that and go that route and skip the mechanic altogether for the same price. I don't think much of used cylinder heads with the original valves on them. The transplant might work out, but there's the possibility of producing other issues, imagined, real.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I think I would remove both heads and inspect before I bought any parts.

[pancho]

I wouldn't remove anything at this point Ron,, I would line everything back up, get the belts on correctly and adjust the idlers and start the bike.  If you have problems, a compression test will verify which cylinders/heads needs attention. Like meathead said,, not a good idea to start buying parts until you know what you need.

[indybobm]

I would still like to see a picture of the crank pulley when the left cam pulley is on the mark and the right cam pulley is 45 degrees off

[baldo]

This goes back to the shrieking sound...I had the same thing happen to me on my Goldwing a few years ago. I was meeting up with some people for a ride into Vermont. The consensus was that I had a tensioner going. One of the guys lived nearby and offered his tools and a spot under a carport to change them out. Long story short, I changed out both tensioners and started it up. Squeal was still there. I put my hand on the gauge cluster and the sound went away. Turns out it was the tach cable making all the noise. Lesson learned....