Located D shaped pilot screw. How to get at it?

[Roidfingers]

  Looked all over. I'm hoping its not directly behind the chrome intake tube and facing down. Can't see if that's it or not. If so, how do you get to it. Pull the intake tubes? A picture would be great. Thanks

[Bighead]

http://partstream.arinet.com/Mobile/ACrA2nDmW-_-JVhDz3cH1azosy1EBELDK71_AVtAlcVeOMd1cIQOd8TC4Pn2laiZVndrZn6yKBtt0gRxsl72jG7IEERqbFlTXDS5WfdT6v01.html

[Roidfingers]

Thanks Bighead. But I couldn't get page to open. Says it cant recognize my mobile devise. I'm on a home PC.

[Roidfingers]

OK, yes that it. ugh. So whats best way to adjust them. Pull the chrome intake tubes seems would make it easier. Any thoughts?

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Red Eye has them on their website for about 8 bucks. I just found them this morning while browsing the web.

[Roidfingers]

Not needing the pilot screw. Just want to adjust them and trying to get opinions of easiest method. ie: pull chrome intake tubes?

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Red Eye has the tool.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Red Eye Motorcycle acces.

[Roidfingers]

I have the tool from redeye. But very tight in there with my fat fingers. Should I pull the chrome intakes? doesn't seem to be that much to them. Plus I want to get an accurate setting. I'm thinking with them removed I would be able to dial it in better. Any reason not to pull the intakes. I have the o rings to replace them with too.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I just did my interstate after I cleaned the carbs. I took a hacksaw and cut slots in my pilot screws so I could adjust with a screwdriver bit in a 1/4 in socket after reinstalling on the bike. It was a good thing I did because I had to adjust them after installing. Yes I pulled my intakes but left one on each side to hold carb assembly in place. There is a very good video on u tube that shows how to cut slots and work on carbs it saved my bacon. Good luck.

[John Schmidt]

The pilots are underneath the carbs and you need 10" fingers the size of a 3 yr. old to get at them using the D tool. As mentioned, the last time I had the carbs out I removed all the pilots and cut a slot in the head with a Dremel tool. Then when reinstalling them I used a touch of anti-seize. Now, just a small flat blade from a screwdriver with some tape wrapped around it makes adjusting real easy. Finding the right orientation with the D tool was frustrating.

[Roidfingers]

Thanks for the advise. Yes I've watched the vids. Very good. Only reason I'm adjusting is due to popping on decal . I have 6 in 6 cobra's no baffles. If I ever have to pull the carb assembly I would def do that mod.  Thanks again

[Ricky-D]

Messing with those idle mixture screws will not affect the deceleration popping. It's your exhaust pipes that causing the popping

and you fiddling with those screws chance damaging the screws and carburetors Another thing that's causing the popping is the

aftermarket jet needles you have in the carburetors. There's probably more aftermarket carburetor parts in your bike and all of

that is not needed. Not the needles, not the jets, not anything. It's the pipes and if you like the noise, keep them on, but they

are the reason for your dissatisfaction. Not the idle mixture screws.

***

[The emperor has no clothes]

Messing with those idle mixture screws will not affect the deceleration popping. It's your exhaust pipes that causing the popping

and you fiddling with those screws chance damaging the screws and carburetors Another thing that's causing the popping is the

aftermarket jet needles you have in the carburetors. There's probably more aftermarket carburetor parts in your bike and all of

that is not needed. Not the needles, not the jets, not anything. It's the pipes and if you like the noise, keep them on, but they

are the reason for your dissatisfaction. Not the idle mixture screws.

***

Did I miss something ? Did he say he has aftermarket jets and needles ? I have a bone stock Standard that would pop on decel sometimes. Before a desmog and after.

[Roidfingers]

Thank you Meathead. You are correct, just stock. And I have read many many posts that say its running to lean. And yes I know it is the pipes, duh. That's why I'm trying to adjust it. Also have done the desmog.
Plan on unscrewing fuel control valve knob. Lifting rear of tank, in order to loosen airbox bolt. then loosen all 12 intake screws but only removing one side at time. Then clamps on the upper intake tubes. Should give me plenty of play to remove the tubes. Then after the adjustments. New o rings and may even smooth out the inside of tubes.
That's the plan anyway. 

[98valk]

this is the best Honda tool to get, it was org listed for the cbr900.

it has a flexible spring head. been using it for yrs.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-07MMA-MT3010B.html

[pancho]

Hey CA, does that tool flex enough that you can adjust the screws with without removing anything from the bike? like can you use it while the bike is running?

[98valk]

Hey CA, does that tool flex enough that you can adjust the screws with without removing anything from the bike? like can you use it while the bike is running?

Absolutely.  nothing has to be removed. some patience, practice and technique needed to get it on the D-screw and keep it on there. once thru the learning curve its easy to use.
end of the handle even has a grooved recess white line to track your turn movement.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Thank you Meathead. You are correct, just stock. And I have read many many posts that say its running to lean. And yes I know it is the pipes, duh. That's why I'm trying to adjust it. Also have done the desmog.
Plan on unscrewing fuel control valve knob. Lifting rear of tank, in order to loosen airbox bolt. then loosen all 12 intake screws but only removing one side at time. Then clamps on the upper intake tubes. Should give me plenty of play to remove the tubes. Then after the adjustments. New o rings and may even smooth out the inside of tubes.
That's the plan anyway. 

You don't need to do all that to remove the intake manifolds. Just remove the 2 bolts on each and loosen the clamp on the top . They will pull out pretty easily.

[pancho]

Hey CA, does that tool flex enough that you can adjust the screws with without removing anything from the bike? like can you use it while the bike is running?

Absolutely.  nothing has to be removed. some patience, practice and technique needed to get it on the D-screw and keep it on there. once thru the learning curve its easy to use.
end of the handle even has a grooved recess white line to track your turn movement.

Hmmm, a bit pricey, but if it can be made to work correctly, its probably worth it, you just can't work the small manual tool when the motor is hot no matter what your finger size.

[98valk]

Hey CA, does that tool flex enough that you can adjust the screws with without removing anything from the bike? like can you use it while the bike is running?

Absolutely.  nothing has to be removed. some patience, practice and technique needed to get it on the D-screw and keep it on there. once thru the learning curve its easy to use.
end of the handle even has a grooved recess white line to track your turn movement.

Hmmm, a bit pricey, but if it can be made to work correctly, its probably worth it, you just can't work the small manual tool when the motor is hot no matter what your finger size.

They used to be $40 and then it was discontinued for about 2 yrs then brought back for the higher price. some places list it for $150

[Patrick]

You state the bike is all stock, well, if the pilots have not been re-set they will at about 1.75 turns. Thats a bit lean and they seem to like 2.25 turns much better.

A 'D' driver can be homemade fairly easily and cheaply since it only needs to be used once. I still think that pilot head is a poor design, but, they don't want folks messing with them so i guess that thinking works.

That adjustment can be made without removing anything, but, if you can't just can't get at them then the intake runners can be easily removed as mentioned. It takes longer to write this than to remove them. Just make sure to install new o-rings.

If the pilots have never been touched then they may well be frozen in place. That could present a problem. They have been known for their stubbornness. A small dremel wheel can be used to cut a slot but it'll get into the housing a bit but not hurt anything. Even then they have known to break/twist off even with quite a bit of heat having been used.

I cut a slot in the pilot heads for a normal flat head screwdriver. Did that probably in 1999 since the bike is a 1998. Add a dab of never-seize to the threads only. I don't think I've touched them since except to make sure they were still free.

As for adjustment, I've tried adjusting them every way imaginable and have the burnt fingers to prove it. 2.25 turns is what works with 35 jets.

[Savago]

Dear friend

While doing the job, you think you could snap some photos of the pilot screw?

I will have to adjust them as mine I/S is idling at 600RPM instead of 900RPM.

Cheers


Savago

[The emperor has no clothes]

Dear friend

While doing the job, you think you could snap some photos of the pilot screw?

I will have to adjust them as mine I/S is idling at 600RPM instead of 900RPM.

Cheers


Savago

Savago, have you tried adjusting with the idle screw ? Right side between the front 2 intake runners.

[Patrick]

These monsters will idle slower when the engine is cold and speed up when warm. The idle speed adjustment screw is between intake runners #1 and #3 [ brake side]. Just reach in and give it a twist.

[longrider]

this is the best Honda tool to get, it was org listed for the cbr900.

it has a flexible spring head. been using it for yrs.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-07MMA-MT3010B.html

I bought one of these many years ago.  As 98 valk said   This is the best tool for the job.  The handle is marked so adjustments are done accurately.  And the intake runners can be left in place.   I do use a mirror to see where the flat spot is before inserting the D end

[Savago]

@meathead and @Patrick

That is a great idea! I will try adjust the idle screw this week and report back.

Update: it worked! Thanks guys!


Savago

[Roidfingers]

I got mine adjusted today using the Redeye snubby tool. PITA ! even with the intake tubes removed. Felt like the outside diameter was just to snug in there. Wasn't to sure so I did them all twice. With it being snug like it was, it was hard to tell if u had bottomed out or if you were just grinding on the inside wall. She cranked up and seem to run a little rough at first. Maybe just not warmed up, then smoothed out some. Will take for a test tomorrow. If they are not set close, how will I know when I'm riding? What will it do? Could it hurt it?

Ordered the tool from above just now. Like I said, Just don't feel good about it. No sure indicator on the snubby and fit to tight.

[Patrick]

I got mine adjusted today using the Redeye snubby tool. PITA ! even with the intake tubes removed. Felt like the outside diameter was just to snug in there. Wasn't to sure so I did them all twice. With it being snug like it was, it was hard to tell if u had bottomed out or if you were just grinding on the inside wall. She cranked up and seem to run a little rough at first. Maybe just not warmed up, then smoothed out some. Will take for a test tomorrow. If they are not set close, how will I know when I'm riding? What will it do? Could it hurt it?

Ordered the tool from above just now. Like I said, Just don't feel good about it. No sure indicator on the snubby and fit to tight.

I guess it would depend on just how you adjusted them.  Just turn them in until they seat very lightly then back them out 2.25 turns. Thats it, its done.

If the tool seems to fit too snugly for you, a grinder/file will fix that.

If it doesn't seem to run right then just run a couple tanks thru it with heavy doses of a carburetor cleaner [ I like Sea-Foam] as disturbing those pilots can very well dislodge some varnish that now needs to be dissolved.

[Roidfingers]

UPDATE !  Running like a champ. Had to back the idle down a little, but running strong and absolutely NO, Nil, None, zilch, zero, goose egg, nada. Backfire at all. Extremely pleased. 

[The emperor has no clothes]

Gotta love a happy ending