New batt 3 mos ago....

[NDFRC]

Hi guys, hope everyone is well.. I know the answer is here somewhere, just a little frustrated at the moment so I gotta ask...
I think I need a new alt., I rode the gurl today, first time I started her in 2 maybe 3 weeks at the most, started right up( didn’t even have the tender on during that time). I just put a new Yusma (sp) about 3 months ago, she’s been starting fine, so that’s not an area that I am even worried about- she starts fine, heck she runs great thanks to Grump!! So today, I take my son to a friend’s house, not far away, perfect reason to get her out, I have been wanting to anyways.. It’s about 2-3 miles, got there shut if off for about 5 mins, she started right up and went back home. The wife and I decide to go for a ride and get lunch, fires right up, no indications of any issues at this point, rode it about 5 miles, ate lunch, about an hour later, starts right up, we stopped at a Walgreens on the way home, about 4 miles from the restaurant, went in came out- say 15 mins, went to start and click, click, nothing was left on, key went with me.. tried it a couple times the best she had was maybe a slow half turn on the motor then just flat, batt is dead. Luckily, with Amy and I pushing and an ever so slight grade and she fired right up from 2nd in about 10’ shew!! Got home, shut her down, no start, nadda!  I put the tender on it for about 3-4 hours, the light isn’t green yet but she did start..
So my alt has decided it was time to go right?? and if so please tell me it’s not a hard job to replace? 

[sixlow]

Get her running again and check voltage at battery to see if charging, if it is clean the starter button contacts, even if she has under 5k on her, she has 13 yrs. of oxidation on those contacts.

[salty1]

Get her running again and check voltage at battery to see if charging, if it is clean the starter button contacts, even if she has under 5k on her, she has 13 yrs. of oxidation on those contacts.

  The charge voltage should be around 14 volts. Starter switches can be a PITA. 

[Skinhead]

Check the ground at the block and the terminals at the starter relay as well, oh and make sure battery connections are tight.

[pancho]

What was already said,, troubleshoot the charging system before changing anything. If you don't have or know how to use a voltmeter, find someone who does and check the voltage across the battery when the bike is running, if you do not show 14+ volts or so when running, check the "dog bone"  fuse under the right side cover, it is the fusible link between the alternator and the rest of the electrical system. If the alternator has failed and needs to be removed, look carefully at the mounting bolts. You will see that two of them go into thru holes that allow moisture and crap to get into them and can cause corrosion between the bolts and the aluminum case. Spray down into them with some penetrating lubricant a day or two before you remove the bolts and be careful if they are tight so you do not twist one off in the case. I had a problem with this, but with careful working back and forth was able to get them all out.  Replacing the alternator is about like putting on the u-joint boot or the fan shroud, sometimes it will just drop into place, sometimes it will be a bear.

[NDFRC]

12.5v at the batt, when running at ilde, rev it up and the volts go down to like 12.1, so its running off the batt. check main fuse its okay, as is ground.
so, the alt r/r doesn't look to bad, just one question at this point, what is the stock amps on a fac alt? many choices out there from 40 -120a..
  Or,
Does anyone have a recommendation or a 'what not to get'.. in replacement alts?

[Gryphon Rider]

Clean and tighten all terminations in the charging circuit, positive and negative, before assuming alternator failure.  Might save you some time and expense.

[Chrisj CMA]

When you say you checked the main fuse I hope you meant the 55A fuseable link with the little wrench looking thing.  If that is melted, no alternator

[gordonv]

You should be able to go directly to the alternator and check the voltage there. If you get the 13-14+V, then you know there is something wrong between the alt and bat.

My alt wasn't giving me 14V, took it apart, and found the brushes dirty and not moving in their sockets. Cleaned, and worked again. On inspection, I was maybe at their half life. I bought new brushes, that I was going to change out this year, but sold the GW. Now I need to check my IS sometime in the future.

[NDFRC]

12.5v at the batt, when running at ilde, rev it up and the volts go down to like 12.1, so its running off the batt. check main fuse its okay, as is ground.
so, the alt r/r doesn't look to bad...

Ok.. All I can say is wow.  Really? … wow.
Got a new alt, had a chance today to do the r&r.. took me about 5-6 hours, a very much so PITA job. The hardest part for me (besides figuring out how to get it out)was getting it back in…aligning the splines on the alt to sync up and insert in-between the rubber spacers on the block housing.. no room to work..  a long frustrating day.. Sheeezz, but finally did it, really don’t want to do it again.   Finally and happily check the voltage across my batt and I get the same thing as before I started, 12.5v at idle, drops to 12.4v, with high beams, at 5k rpm loses more- 12.2- 12,1v   Man, so checked the alt output and it was all over 14-15v..
Checked the 10a fuse, looked again at the 50a main, fuses look good but that bottom bolt on the 50a fusible was rusted as was the hot lead going to it (I did notice this early on when I first checked the fuse, but was more concerned about the fuse, and was convinced it was a bad alt), I cleaned and changed out the rusted stuff for fresh and went back across my batt with a voltmeter and guess what?
At 58 years old, I know what I am doing at most things.. heck that alt was over 10yrs old, yep don’t go any further, it’s not like I could of fixed it in about 5 min, spending no money, no pain, no blasphemes, hand cuts, back ache.. pride, and a 90 degree afternoon suffering in the garage.

Yep, now across the batt is 14v++ with revs!!
I tell myself I have a spare alt now and there is a new one installed.   

Totally humbled here....  count how many times I was told on here to check the basics before replacing the alt.. well I am here to tell you, do this job any other way and you might as well just well, it’s stupid. Period.

[gordonv]

Totally humbled here....  count how many times I was told on here to check the basics before replacing the alt.. well I am here to tell you, do this job any other way and you might as well just well, it’s stupid. Period.

I wish more of us would learn the same why, from others who have already been there and done that, myself included.

Carbs are a big one. Too many times I read of people who have already removed their carbs and taken them apart, before asking on line, and repeatedly being told to try a few strong doses of carb cleaner. Even if it doesn't work, it's an easy try.

[The emperor has no clothes]

12.5v at the batt, when running at ilde, rev it up and the volts go down to like 12.1, so its running off the batt. check main fuse its okay, as is ground.
so, the alt r/r doesn't look to bad...

Ok.. All I can say is wow.  Really? … wow.
Got a new alt, had a chance today to do the r&r.. took me about 5-6 hours, a very much so PITA job. The hardest part for me (besides figuring out how to get it out)was getting it back in…aligning the splines on the alt to sync up and insert in-between the rubber spacers on the block housing.. no room to work..  a long frustrating day.. Sheeezz, but finally did it, really don’t want to do it again.   Finally and happily check the voltage across my batt and I get the same thing as before I started, 12.5v at idle, drops to 12.4v, with high beams, at 5k rpm loses more- 12.2- 12,1v   Man, so checked the alt output and it was all over 14-15v..
Checked the 10a fuse, looked again at the 50a main, fuses look good but that bottom bolt on the 50a fusible was rusted as was the hot lead going to it (I did notice this early on when I first checked the fuse, but was more concerned about the fuse, and was convinced it was a bad alt), I cleaned and changed out the rusted stuff for fresh and went back across my batt with a voltmeter and guess what?
At 58 years old, I know what I am doing at most things.. heck that alt was over 10yrs old, yep don’t go any further, it’s not like I could of fixed it in about 5 min, spending no money, no pain, no blasphemes, hand cuts, back ache.. pride, and a 90 degree afternoon suffering in the garage.

Yep, now across the batt is 14v++ with revs!!
I tell myself I have a spare alt now and there is a new one installed.   

Totally humbled here....  count how many times I was told on here to check the basics before replacing the alt.. well I am here to tell you, do this job any other way and you might as well just well, it’s stupid. Period.

Well, there are a couple positives here. You now have a backup alternator and you know how to replace it.  

[pancho]

12.5v at the batt, when running at ilde, rev it up and the volts go down to like 12.1, so its running off the batt. check main fuse its okay, as is ground.
so, the alt r/r doesn't look to bad...

Ok.. All I can say is wow.  Really? … wow.
Got a new alt, had a chance today to do the r&r.. took me about 5-6 hours, a very much so PITA job. The hardest part for me (besides figuring out how to get it out)was getting it back in…aligning the splines on the alt to sync up and insert in-between the rubber spacers on the block housing.. no room to work..  a long frustrating day.. Sheeezz, but finally did it, really don’t want to do it again.   Finally and happily check the voltage across my batt and I get the same thing as before I started, 12.5v at idle, drops to 12.4v, with high beams, at 5k rpm loses more- 12.2- 12,1v   Man, so checked the alt output and it was all over 14-15v..
Checked the 10a fuse, looked again at the 50a main, fuses look good but that bottom bolt on the 50a fusible was rusted as was the hot lead going to it (I did notice this early on when I first checked the fuse, but was more concerned about the fuse, and was convinced it was a bad alt), I cleaned and changed out the rusted stuff for fresh and went back across my batt with a voltmeter and guess what?
At 58 years old, I know what I am doing at most things.. heck that alt was over 10yrs old, yep don’t go any further, it’s not like I could of fixed it in about 5 min, spending no money, no pain, no blasphemes, hand cuts, back ache.. pride, and a 90 degree afternoon suffering in the garage.

Yep, now across the batt is 14v++ with revs!!
I tell myself I have a spare alt now and there is a new one installed.   

Totally humbled here....  count how many times I was told on here to check the basics before replacing the alt.. well I am here to tell you, do this job any other way and you might as well just well, it’s stupid. Period.

Hey brother,, it's fixed!!                   

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I hate to say but you may have bought an alt. for nothing. The number of starts you made in a short time without much riding in between may have been your problem. It takes about 15 to 20mins of riding to replace the voltage of one start. I did the same thing running errands for the wife one day. I made about 5 or 6 starts in a very short time and had to push start the girl to get home. After charging the battery she started right up and took her for an hour ride and the problem never returned. If  you put a volt meter on the bike (very easy to do ) you'll always know if your charging. Anyway you got her done and you may have a spare alt. for the future.

[Gideon]

Ok.. All I can say is wow.  Really? … wow.
Got a new alt, had a chance today to do the r&r.. took me about 5-6 hours, a very much so PITA job. The hardest part for me (besides figuring out how to get it out)was getting it back in…aligning the splines on the alt to sync up and insert in-between the rubber spacers on the block housing.. no room to work..  a long frustrating day.. Sheeezz, but finally did it, really don’t want to do it again.   Finally and happily check the voltage across my batt and I get the same thing as before I started, 12.5v at idle, drops to 12.4v, with high beams, at 5k rpm loses more- 12.2- 12,1v   Man, so checked the alt output and it was all over 14-15v..
Checked the 10a fuse, looked again at the 50a main, fuses look good but that bottom bolt on the 50a fusible was rusted as was the hot lead going to it (I did notice this early on when I first checked the fuse, but was more concerned about the fuse, and was convinced it was a bad alt), I cleaned and changed out the rusted stuff for fresh and went back across my batt with a voltmeter and guess what?
At 58 years old, I know what I am doing at most things.. heck that alt was over 10yrs old, yep don’t go any further, it’s not like I could of fixed it in about 5 min, spending no money, no pain, no blasphemes, hand cuts, back ache.. pride, and a 90 degree afternoon suffering in the garage.

Yep, now across the batt is 14v++ with revs!!
I tell myself I have a spare alt now and there is a new one installed.   
[/quote]

Where did you purchase the new alternator?
My local dealer wants $625 plus $80 hr. to install it.

[Valkorado]

Where did you purchase the new alternator?
My local dealer wants $625 plus $80 hr. to install it.

  Highway robbery!  Get a used one from a low mileage bike on eBay, or a new one on Amazon for around a buck fifty -- or have yours rebuilt, search for a company called M.A.R.S.  Could just be that you need new brushes, too.

[gordonv]

and remember Goldwing alts are the same, just need to "clock" the rear so the wires bolt up properly in the Valkyrie.