Carb job on 98 Valk.

[ShopMonkey]

Im afraid that I've let my Valk set too long without riding her. Usually after she sits for a while in the winter, she just runs rough for a few miles, then smooths out. Well she set longer than usual this time. I had an accident and was laid up for a while. Anyway, I've looked around the Atlanta/Stockbridge area, and can't find anyone who will work on the carbs, so I reckon I'll give it a shot myself. I have tools and a good place to work. Since I've never attempted this before, I would Really appreciate any advice anybody has to offer, like what exactly should I buy ( jets, floats, gaskets, etc.) before starting this job.. Or am I gettin in over my head? 

[WintrSol]

What are the symptoms; does it start, but runs rough? Starts, but won't idle?

[pancho]

search youtube for "Valkyrie carburetors" and the top showings will be a series done by a guy named D-Ray, watch them and decide if you can do them yourself,,, I bet you can if you are the SHopMonkey

[Ricky-D]

What you are contemplating is not something for the novice to attempt. Some strong doses of an additive over many times is the best suggestion you'll receive.

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[ShopMonkey]

It  will start, but runs really rough, and won't run at all unless the choke is wide open. I have worked a good bit on cars, and have done maintenance work on my bikes, just never took the carbs off the Valk.
I have replaced the trigger wheel, installed truck stacks, pulled the tank off. Stuff like that.

[pancho]

RIcky-D has something there SHopMonkey,, many times a couple of strong doses of Chemtron B-12 added to the fuel (available at WalMart for about $3) will go a long way towards cleaning up gunked up carbs.

[ShopMonkey]

Thanks Guys
I'll give the Chemtron cleaner a good try first. I have tried another gas additive, but it didn't help.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I had let my standard set too long with the same results. No amount of cleaners would help. Ended up having to remove the carbs and clean them. If you have done the other jobs you said you won't have a problem. If you haven't done a desmog on the bike I would do it at the same time. On my carbs the main and slow jets were clogged, some worse than others. I didn't find any need for new jets. Spray carb cleaner and single strands of wire did the trick. I subsequently learned of the float springs becoming weak on these bikes. I would recommend those. Good luck. The hardest part is getting the airbox back on properly . 

[Gavin_Sons]

Thanks Guys
I'll give the Chemtron cleaner a good try first. I have tried another gas additive, but it didn't help.

Chemtool B-12, I have also had good luck with gumout fuel system cleaner.

[gordonv]

I'll give the Chemtron cleaner a good try first. I have tried another gas additive, but it didn't help.

You say you've used another cleaner, in what consentrat, and how did you drive the bike?

You want something like 1/2 a can in 1/2 a tank. You want to drive it in the RPM range that is giving you the problem, which for most of us is, low speed/high gear (low RPM). You want to do something like 1/2 hr ride, then let it sit over night, to so & from work is nice.

[ShopMonkey]

To be honest, I don't remember the name of the gas treatment I used. It's been about 3 months ago that I was working to get it unclogged, then I had an accident and busted my hip, and have just now recovered enough to ride again. Titanium hip joints take a while to get used to. I don't recommend it.  I'll try the half can to a half tank of gas suggestion, and try to get her to run for a 30 minute ride.

[butlertd]

I tried several fuel additives, but eventually had to pull the carbs & rebuild. The D-Jay video series was a great help and solved many problems. I replaced all rubber parts (O-rings & Gaskets) & a couple mid-range needle valves which were stuck & corroded. This seemed to solve all my problems and it runs great. The biggest headache is the air box & runners, I did replace (2) rubber runners that were cracked at the manifold connections, this was somewhat a pain but i used hose clamps to squeeze the runners down at the air box to get them connected. Then used tie-downs on the air box to hold it down when connecting the runners to the manifolds. Use a small mirror when fitting the runners to the manifolds to make sure they are connected correctly. I had to re-do these several times before finally tightening them all down. OBTW... do change the petcock, these fail and can cause serious problems.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

If you do end up pulling carbs the videos on u tube are great place for imfo. just did mine getting carb assembly removed from bike is the hardest part. I replaced low speed jets with oem from jets r us for about 35 dollars for the set. I ended up with pilots screw set at 2 and 1/2 for the best idle and starting. manual says 2 &3/8 for an interstate so I'm close. Take your time and clean everything and de- smog if you want to while you have it apart.