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Crashgordon74
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« on: April 22, 2016, 10:42:28 AM » |
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Anything I should know about swapping out my timing belts? Already to go, purchased belts from NAPA, have a Clymer manual. Process seems pretty straight forward. If I were to get the belts a tooth off would it be noticeable turning the crank by hand??
Crash
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Firefighter
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« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2016, 11:25:39 AM » |
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I changed mine, but it was several years ago. I had no problem, think I marked them first so if I got in trouble I could put it all back together as it was. Removing the spark plugs makes turning the engine easy. After you finish rotate the engine two turns and see if they line up the same. Turn easy and if the belts are not lined up right and there is interference you will know without any damage. Check the tensioners for free movement, I had to clean mine as they had a small amount of rubber deposited where the belts run.
Others will explain better, but I didn't think it was difficult, follow the manuel closely, let us know if you don't understand something.
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
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98valk
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« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2016, 11:38:17 AM » |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2016, 02:11:34 PM » |
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Easy job. Just turn the engine over a few times by hand before starting to make sure the marks are aligned correctly and nothing is bumping into anything.
Mind the cover bolts as they are several different lengths.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2016, 02:15:01 PM » |
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Also, it's Advisable to remove all the spark plugs to reduce the possibility of compression turning the motor over without belts attached
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Bubba FoSho
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« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2016, 03:40:33 PM » |
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I wouldn't turn the engine over without the belts installed. You can very easily bend a valve.
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Crashgordon74
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« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2016, 05:43:37 PM » |
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O.K. belts are in. Turned the motor over several times... no issues. Buttoned everything up and started the bike and nothing blew up so I guess I was successful. I never did pull the plugs, hell the bike was even in gear!! Old belts still looked good but at almost 20 years old was time for a change. Thanks for all the tips guys. This site is the best.  Crash |
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heavyd
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« Reply #7 on: April 29, 2016, 10:30:41 PM » |
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I guess it's a bit late but...
Based on personal experience, don't use a 1/2" ratchet when you are turning over the engine by hand to check it. At least not if you weigh in at 270+ like me. By the time I noticed the pressure was more than it should be because I was off a tooth, I had bent a valve. Next time I I'll be using a 1/4" stubby ratchet.
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Steve K (IA)
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« Reply #8 on: April 30, 2016, 02:16:04 PM » |
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Which bolt gets the sealant? Seem to remember one threaded hole intersects with a water channel and if a sealant isn't applied to the threads of the bolt, you can have a coolant leak. And, what do you use for a sealant? |
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 States I Have Ridden In |
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98valk
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« Reply #9 on: April 30, 2016, 02:42:31 PM » |
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Which bolt gets the sealant? Seem to remember one threaded hole intersects with a water channel and if a sealant isn't applied to the threads of the bolt, you can have a coolant leak. And, what do you use for a sealant? pg 8.29 shows top bolt to the right of the small cover. it has been reported that some engines do not need the sealant. was talked about a few months ago. just silicone sealant will work. |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #10 on: April 30, 2016, 06:58:30 PM » |
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I guess it's a little late now, but nobody mentioned setting the tension on those belts. Several people have reported problems having them too tight. I just let the spring in my tensioners do the job for me and after a whole year it has been fine--no whining noise or anything.
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« Last Edit: April 30, 2016, 07:06:18 PM by Tfrank59 »
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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Crashgordon74
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« Reply #11 on: May 07, 2016, 10:46:41 AM » |
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I used blue loc-tight on the bolt that required the sealant. Now I'm wondering if that was the right thing to use. I'll keep an eye on it. As far as the tensioners go, I may have set them on the tight side. However, I don't think you can just let the springs do the job as they don't seem to be strong enough to apply the proper tension. I'm not sure what the springs are even doing there because when you tighten both tensioner mount bolts the springs are then doing nothing. I just kind of eyeballed the tension using my finger and a tape. I did use a 1/2 ratchet on the crank pulley with the plugs in and the bike still in gear. Guess I dodged a bullet!  Crash |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15223
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #12 on: May 07, 2016, 01:45:19 PM » |
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Once the tensioners are tightened down the springs don't really do anything. They do a great job of setting the belt tension BEFORE you tighten down the pulleys, that's their main purpose. In all the Valks I've worked on the spring tension is all I ever used and have never had a problem in the years that followed.
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