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old2soon
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« on: April 30, 2016, 05:45:21 AM » |
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Wouldn't start when I wanted it to. After some figuring R & R main starter relay. Still no go. Is there anyone close to Willow Springs that knows this electrical system and can maybe help on site? As always-T I A. I will be gone a good portion of today on a P G R mission. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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BonS
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« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2016, 06:23:17 AM » |
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I wish I was closer to you. Any chance you'll be near Blue Springs, MO? I'd certainly be able to assist!
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2016, 07:12:10 AM » |
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desertrefugee
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« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2016, 01:51:51 PM » |
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Hotwire (with a screwdriver) across the solenoid/big relay. If the starter goes, it's your ignition switch/start button or associated wiring. If no-spin shorting the solenoid, your starter is probably toast.
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'97 Bumble Bee, '78 GL1000, '79 CBX, '78 CB750F, '74 CB750
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CajunRider
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« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2016, 09:14:13 AM » |
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The link posted above is the first place to check. Age seems to cause that connector to start getting overheated and melting. My 2000 standard did the same.
Second place (only because it's easy to get to) is to make sure you have a good ground between the battery and the frame (or engine, I forget exactly where the ground connects). While this wasn't the problem on my Valk, I had that issue on both my BMW and Triumph. I checked that first on my Valk. Connection wasn't loose, but I opened and cleaned anyway to be sure, then went to the connector in the above link to find the problem.
The starter switch (as already mentioned) is another big point to check. I had a few days where I had issues momentarily (usually cold days for some reason, a few attempts would get it to start fine)... after cleaning the switch, the problem went away.
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Sent from my Apple IIe
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john
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« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2016, 02:28:54 PM » |
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- cable grounds at the bottom of block , left side rear ...  remove and clean all connections under the right side cover ... ??? all of them ... use dielectric grease on clean connections ... replace  oxidation , rust and crud acts as insulation and no juice will flow  new batteries fail ... starter relays fry  its the little things that drive people nuts  |
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vrcc # 19002
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pancho
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« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2016, 06:17:32 PM » |
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Post some more details of the problem and your troubleshooting efforts if no one can come over old2soon, talk you through it.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2016, 08:37:12 PM » |
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Both of my daily riders, I moved the ground cable from the engine block to the left driver's footpeg bracket bolt. A steel ground is much better than the aluminum block ground. Particularly since Honda doesn't use star washers there, industry standard in this country. On Deerslayer, I did it on a road trip, at a gas station. With minimal tools and much cussing at Honda. Didn't do it to George yet but then haven't wrenched on him at all. Yet.
IMHO go ahead and move the cable. Might fix the problem. Will likely prevent one in the future.
Secondly, on the frangible link. (The 55amp fuse directly downstream of the pos battery post) Thanks to another roadside breakdown on Deerslayer. Make sure the contacts at both ends, fuse and cables are clean, properly torqued, then coat both ends cables and fuse with liquid electrical tape to prevent moisture / corrosion from adding resistance there to result in overheating, melting and failure.
Thirdly, the starter relay is another weak spot as discussed above. We had to fix DDT's 500k tourer on a road trip last year, right there. Corrosion, resistance, overheated and melted. Make sure all connections are clean, properly torqued, then seal them against moisture / air. I prefer liquid electrical tape as opposed to dielectric grease for that purpose.
Fourth, starter switch. Do my headlight relay mod or get BonS's Smartswitch (same thing, really) to get the load off the contacts. Eliminates this kind of failure and maintenance on the starter sw as well as the hi-lo sw, not to mention you get more light off the headlight even if you don't go to a hi-power bulb - which you can if you do the mod. I run 130/90 on mine, have for 17 years.
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« Last Edit: May 01, 2016, 08:49:06 PM by MarkT »
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Bigwolf
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« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2016, 09:26:15 AM » |
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I sent a PM to you.
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2016, 05:08:30 PM » |
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Both of my daily riders, I moved the ground cable from the engine block to the left driver's footpeg bracket bolt. A steel ground is much better than the aluminum block ground. Particularly since Honda doesn't use star washers there, industry standard in this country. On Deerslayer, I did it on a road trip, at a gas station. With minimal tools and much cussing at Honda. Didn't do it to George yet but then haven't wrenched on him at all. Yet.
Now come on Mark! What is this you are saying??? Honda's Engineers could actually have done something wrong? Really? If their engineer did it, it has to be right... come on, Mother Honda can't ever be wrong...  |
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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Bighead
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« Reply #10 on: May 02, 2016, 05:10:37 PM » |
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Both of my daily riders, I moved the ground cable from the engine block to the left driver's footpeg bracket bolt. A steel ground is much better than the aluminum block ground. Particularly since Honda doesn't use star washers there, industry standard in this country. On Deerslayer, I did it on a road trip, at a gas station. With minimal tools and much cussing at Honda. Didn't do it to George yet but then haven't wrenched on him at all. Yet.
Now come on Mark! What is this you are saying??? Honda's Engineers could actually have done something wrong? Really? If their engineer did it, it has to be right... come on, Mother Honda can't ever be wrong... Well we know they are not wrong when it comes to longevity |
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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