Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 07, 2025, 12:42:36 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
Inzane 17
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Interstate fairing removal  (Read 1619 times)
Hook#3287
Member
*****
Posts: 6447


Brimfield, Ma


« on: May 01, 2016, 05:46:03 AM »

I got "Georgia" home yesterday afternoon w/o issue.

She's strong and beautiful.

She has many small issues, most due to age and mileage, with some due to poor reassembly after new paint.

I found a inspection report in the saddlebag from two owners ago and it had his phone number, so I gave him a call.  Nice guy and he had to sell, but loved the bike.

My major concern on the bike was the side stand braket was new and the frame had been welded and repaired.

He told me he had it done by the Honda dealer, so I was happy to hear that it wasn't done in someone's garage.  It looks professionally done.

Being new to Interstate ownership, but reading posts here, I know there are some concerns with removing screws from the fairing.

What is the correct way to go about removing the fairing?  Don't want to create more work for myself by messing stuff up.

TIA.
Logged
Red Diamond
Member
*****
Posts: 2245


Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2016, 07:05:47 AM »

1) remove speaker housings.
2) remove windshield.
3) remove 4 screws on the backside of the fairing below the chrome bezel trim piece. The same position as the bezel screws removed for the windshield.
4) remove two nuts at bracket holding the turn signals.
5) place a thick towel or other pad on the front fender.
Make all your electrical disconnects, remove the fairing.

Hope this helps.
Should any of the little knurl nuts come out, just glue them back in. Think epoxy or JBWeld.
« Last Edit: May 01, 2016, 07:09:05 AM by Red Diamond » Logged


If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
NewValker
Member
*****
Posts: 1345


VRCC# 36356

Oxford, MA


« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2016, 08:03:16 AM »

Morning Bill,  when you take the speaker pods off, chances are the brass inserts will twist out too.  Be careful not to crack the fairing where they go into. Plan on JB welding them back in place and use anti-sieze on the screws. I have some new extras I bought if you need them.
Craig
Logged

Turns out not what or where,
but who you ride with really matters



Hook#3287
Member
*****
Posts: 6447


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2016, 09:46:30 AM »

Red diamond, thanks for the info cooldude

Craig, thanks for the info and offer.  Hopefully I wont need the inserts Roll Eyes
Logged
gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2016, 10:59:16 AM »

My major concern on the bike was the side stand braket was new and the frame had been welded and repaired.

You didn't actually say why, but I take it that the frame support had twisted, and it was repaired. There is a lovely write up on the how-to on that job, I'm thinking Big BF, but could be totally wrong there.

The 2 above posts about the JB weld is about the same items. The "captured nuts" in the fairing, where those speaker (inner fairing) panels are screwed into. Crack the screw loose, but if it doesn't crack, then you are turning one of those insets. Then using a putty knife (large broad surface) between the inner/outer fairing, apply pressure while turning the screw. This will either allow the screw to come out or the insert.

Did you want to remove the whole fairing from the bike? Then the above is right. But I believe you can loosen the lower 2 bolts, and flip the whole fairing forward on those pivots, and have access to the insides.
Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

Hook#3287
Member
*****
Posts: 6447


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2016, 04:30:06 AM »

My major concern on the bike was the side stand braket was new and the frame had been welded and repaired.

You didn't actually say why, but I take it that the frame support had twisted, and it was repaired. There is a lovely write up on the how-to on that job, I'm thinking Big BF, but could be totally wrong there.

The 2 above posts about the JB weld is about the same items. The "captured nuts" in the fairing, where those speaker (inner fairing) panels are screwed into. Crack the screw loose, but if it doesn't crack, then you are turning one of those insets. Then using a putty knife (large broad surface) between the inner/outer fairing, apply pressure while turning the screw. This will either allow the screw to come out or the insert.

Did you want to remove the whole fairing from the bike? Then the above is right. But I believe you can loosen the lower 2 bolts, and flip the whole fairing forward on those pivots, and have access to the insides.

Hey Gordon, thanks for your response.

Yeah, your "take" is correct.  Didn't think I needed to mention it. 2nd PO didn't say and I didn't ask.  Typical valk side stand bend was my take.

I'm removing the fairing for 2 reasons, rebuilding the forks and seeing if the re-assembler put ALL the CORRECT  fastners back, something he seemed to think not important. uglystupid2
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: