idle mixture screws

[peter]

I may be beating a dead horse here, but now that I've learned that 2 1/4 turns out is the proper setting, are there any modifications or conditions you can think of that would require the mixture screws to be altered (either richer or leaner), like aftermarket exhaust, advanced timing, engine mods, etc.?  other than trying to compensate for a vacuum leak somewhere?

I know carb JETS may require switching out when changing exhaust systems, but I've come across nothing that references a need to mess with the idle mixture setting, assuming everything is working properly.

Thanks for your opinions.

Peter
'98 Tourer

[big poppa pump]

I have mine set to 2-1/2 turns out on the Yellow Valk and 1-3/4 turns out on the Black/Red Valk.

[peter]

I see...yellow ones gets 2 1/2, red ones get 1 3/4...got it.

Just pulling your leg....

[John Schmidt]

When I installed 38's for the slow jets, the manual setting was too rich. I turned them back to 2 turns and it runs fine, a little rich for city driving but great on the open road. And, the 38's didn't affect my overall mileage.....in or out of town, especially out of town. I can run in the mid-70's on the toll roads, set the cruise and average in the upper 30's mpg.

[pancho]

That 2 1/4 turns is just an initial setting Peter, The fine adjustment procedure is given on page 5-22 in the service manual.

INITIAL OPENING:
'97 G LT 500CICT:
Except California type : T -314 turns out
California type: 2 turns out
GL1500CF. After '97 GL1 SOOCICT:
Except California type: 2-1 /4 turns out
California type: 2-318 turns out
2. Warm up the engine to operating temperature. Stop and
go driving for 10 minutes is sufficient.
3. Stop the engine ald connect a tachometer according to
the tachometer manufacturer's instructions.
4. Start the engine and adjust the idle speed with the throttle
stop screw.
IDLE SPEED: 900+'100 rpm
5.Turn each pilot screw 1 /2 turn out from the initial setting.
6. If the ens-i ne speed increases bv 50 rim or more, turn each
pilot screw out by successive 112 turn increments unt~l
englne speed does not increase.
7. Adjust the idle speed with the throttle stop screw.
8.Turn the No.1 carburetor p~last crew In until the engine
speed drops by 5C rprn
9.Turn the Mo.1 carburetor pilot screw out to the final
opening from the position obtained in step 8.
FINAL OPENING: 1 turn out -
70. Adjust the idle speed with the throttle stop screw.
11.PerForrn steps 8, 9 and 10 for the No.2, 3, 4, 5 and 6
carburetor pilot screws.

[Patrick]

2.25 for 35#
1.75 for 38s

Anyone that has attempted to set the pilots as Honda recommends, ends up setting them at 2.25 for 35s and 1.75 for 38s.  All the burnt fingers remind one to never try that again, especially since most folks don't have access to a tach accurate enough for this.

[peter]

ok - thanks man.

[pancho]

2.25 for 35#
1.75 for 38s

Anyone that has attempted to set the pilots as Honda recommends, ends up setting them at 2.25 for 35s and 1.75 for 38s.  All the burnt fingers remind one to never try that again, especially since most folks don't have access to a tach accurate enough for this.

Well, It only takes a pilot screw wrench and one of something like this to do it correctly,,

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Actron-CP7605-Dwell-Tachometer-Voltmeter-Analyzer-New-/381540076632?hash=item58d58f8c58:g:hYQAAOSwl8NVZ6CM 

but it only gets you the most perfect idle and just off idle,, but like Patrick is saying, you got to be set up right to do it.

[Patrick]

2.25 for 35#
1.75 for 38s

Anyone that has attempted to set the pilots as Honda recommends, ends up setting them at 2.25 for 35s and 1.75 for 38s.  All the burnt fingers remind one to never try that again, especially since most folks don't have access to a tach accurate enough for this.

Well, It only takes a pilot screw wrench and one of something like this to do it correctly,,

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Actron-CP7605-Dwell-Tachometer-Voltmeter-Analyzer-New-/381540076632?hash=item58d58f8c58:g:hYQAAOSwl8NVZ6CM  

but it only gets you the most perfect idle and just off idle,, but like Patrick is saying, you got to be set up right to do it.

Sorry, but, you're right. You do have to have set up right to do it. But, that ain't gonna do it.

[Led]

It all depends on your present tune. No one can "tell" you what setting you need.  I originally jetted mine "fat"......and I did not wish to rejet. It ran fine......but could always tell it was a tad rich.

But then I installed a K&N airfilter (without prefilter) and it ran a WHOLE lot better by allowing more air through. Then I ended up turning my pilot screws to MORE rich!!  As my idle mixture had become to "lean" then. 

I guess what I am saying.......You just need to keep adjusting, until it runs the best!!!  There IS no "set" rule, from individual Bikes!!! It can depend on SO MUCH!!!

The Motorcycle racing teams will even rejet in between EACH RACE!!! 

Good luck!!!  But there IS no "hard and fast" rule regarding carburation........

[Led]

Just an aside.......for us "old Fogeys".........

The Kids today with their "EFI" crotch rockets will NOT know how to tune carburetors!!  They just plug their "box" into a computer, and download a fuel management system for their bike.......(that SOMEONE ELSE had come up with!!)

There is no longer anyone "tuning" their bikes anymore.   I find that SAD!!     

[John Schmidt]

Hey Pancho, I have a hand held unit....dwell/tach/volts that's at least 40 yrs. old and it's more accurate than the tach on my Valk. Says something for old technology I guess, back then we had to tune engines the "old fashioned" way.    Since my ride is running fine for me, I'll probably not use it to adjust the pilots even better.

[peter]

I think some are confusing rejetting with adjusting the idle mixture....

[98valk]

I think some are confusing rejetting with adjusting the idle mixture....

in your other thread I suggested u go to factorypro website tech section great instr for tuning cv carbs, a must read!, plus separate article about tuning pilot jets.

[peter]

yup - thanks man...will do....just, you know, going for the easy way out... but as usual there isn't one...

[pancho]

Hey Pancho, I have a hand held unit....dwell/tach/volts that's at least 40 yrs. old and it's more accurate than the tach on my Valk. Says something for old technology I guess, back then we had to tune engines the "old fashioned" way.    Since my ride is running fine for me, I'll probably not use it to adjust the pilots even better.

I used to have one, red plastic case with a LARGE analogue meter,, easy to read,,  tossed it a couple of years ago while cleaning up after carting it around the country with multiple moves for ever...  wish I would have kept it.   The pilot screw wrench is a required item,, otherwise "All the burnt fingers remind one to never try that again".. 
Good idle tuning comes into play with very low speed maneuvering, no jacking around with the throttle needed, and it just feels good.

[Patrick]

Hey Pancho, I have a hand held unit....dwell/tach/volts that's at least 40 yrs. old and it's more accurate than the tach on my Valk. Says something for old technology I guess, back then we had to tune engines the "old fashioned" way.    Since my ride is running fine for me, I'll probably not use it to adjust the pilots even better.

I used to have one, red plastic case with a LARGE analogue meter,, easy to read,,  tossed it a couple of years ago while cleaning up after carting it around the country with multiple moves for ever...  wish I would have kept it.   The pilot screw wrench is a required item,, otherwise "All the burnt fingers remind one to never try that again".. 
Good idle tuning comes into play with very low speed maneuvering, no jacking around with the throttle needed, and it just feels good.

That could be, I don't know. I use a normal screwdriver.

I have been doing this stuff for a living for 5 decades, used to hot things. I also have very accurate vacuum gauges and tach.

[soundude]

I've been reading the current trends its funny how everyone has the right and wrong way to set the mixture screws..in my childhood I did the stalling trick turn the screw in till it stumbles or stalls then turn it out till it stumbles or stalls...then I set it rite in the middle, or half of the turns from stumble to stumble and it always gave me a 14-15 to 1 ratio on the fuel mixture or close to 2-3% co on emmisions.
The way I do my interstate is with a 6 tube simple syncronizing carb sticks...once synced, adjust mixture screws till the rpm level peaks on the cooresponding stick this is the most sensitive and accurate. set all 6 mixture screws to highest rpm with the carb sticks...and sync at same time then your done, always perfect..

[peter]

WTF is a "6-tube simple syncronizing carb sticks"? 

After going through the carbs twice and setting the screws to 2 1/4 turns out, it still stumbled a bit. Took it to a local shop and they synced the carbs and reset the mixture screws to 3 turns out. Still stumbled a bit. I ran it by you guys and then reset the screws back to 2 1/4 turns and all is well. I guess I just needed a carb sync.  When I followed up with the shop regarding the bike still stumbling, they wanted me to buy a needle kit to richen it up even more. WRONG.  I'd still be in limbo dealing with this if not for this forum.

Thanks all!

[soundude]

look up DIY carb sticks or carb syncronizer..they usually come in 4 only but alot of valk owners make their own..

[98valk]

WTF is a "6-tube simple syncronizing carb sticks"? 

After going through the carbs twice and setting the screws to 2 1/4 turns out, it still stumbled a bit. Took it to a local shop and they synced the carbs and reset the mixture screws to 3 turns out. Still stumbled a bit. I ran it by you guys and then reset the screws back to 2 1/4 turns and all is well. I guess I just needed a carb sync.  When I followed up with the shop regarding the bike still stumbling, they wanted me to buy a needle kit to richen it up even more. WRONG.  I'd still be in limbo dealing with this if not for this forum.

Thanks all!

forget all the rest Go Digi-sync!

http://thedigisync.com/

[WintrSol]

WTF is a "6-tube simple syncronizing carb sticks"? 

After going through the carbs twice and setting the screws to 2 1/4 turns out, it still stumbled a bit. Took it to a local shop and they synced the carbs and reset the mixture screws to 3 turns out. Still stumbled a bit. I ran it by you guys and then reset the screws back to 2 1/4 turns and all is well. I guess I just needed a carb sync.  When I followed up with the shop regarding the bike still stumbling, they wanted me to buy a needle kit to richen it up even more. WRONG.  I'd still be in limbo dealing with this if not for this forum.

Thanks all!

forget all the rest Go Digi-sync!

http://thedigisync.com/

  Best bang for the buck, IMO.

[Kep]

Yeah , I tried the "Honda way" with my Digi-sync in Tach mode...I have skinny fingers (should ahve been a proctologist) and still burnt the crap out of one knuckle...still have a scar on it.I just went back to my previous 2-3/4 turns out...I have Cobras with K&N air filter and Cobra Jet kit....purrs like a kitty-kat and no pop on de-cel.

[Gental Gaint]

WTF is a "6-tube simple syncronizing carb sticks"? 

After going through the carbs twice and setting the screws to 2 1/4 turns out, it still stumbled a bit. Took it to a local shop and they synced the carbs and reset the mixture screws to 3 turns out. Still stumbled a bit. I ran it by you guys and then reset the screws back to 2 1/4 turns and all is well. I guess I just needed a carb sync.  When I followed up with the shop regarding the bike still stumbling, they wanted me to buy a needle kit to richen it up even more. WRONG.  I'd still be in limbo dealing with this if not for this forum.

Thanks all!

forget all the rest Go Digi-sync!

http://thedigisync.com/

  Best bang for the buck, IMO.

I wonder if the same unit will work with my V65 Honda Sabre... or do I need the 4 'pod' unit....

[BonS]

I wonder if the same unit will work with my V65 Honda Sabre... or do I need the 4 'pod' unit....

The six channel will do anything from one to six cylinders. The only difference might be the hose size for the Sabre. The six channel comes standard with 5/32" hoses. Your Sabre may need the 7/64" hoses plus 5mm adapters to do the sync. It just depends what you have on your Sabre carb manifolds. You can add the 7/64" hoses and adapters to your order so you do any motorcycle engine.