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Author Topic: Weird vibration while at speed, once let go of throttle vibration goes away  (Read 1541 times)
Radman
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Posts: 53


Hamilton, ON. Canada


« on: May 24, 2016, 07:49:09 PM »

Hi all,

I'm not super tech savvy, so I'll describe what I experienced and hopefully you can provide some thoughts.

While I was driving this evening at 120/kph or 75/mph I felt the bike slightly vibrating.  After about 20 minutes my right hand was almost numb.  Pulled over to see if any leaks and didn't see any.  What is unusual about this vibration is that it is felt while the drive line is under power.  When I release the throttle there is a significant reduction in vibration.  I also notice a bit of grinding or vibration/no-vibration going over large bumps in the road.

I ride a 2000 interstate with 187K kms or approx 116K miles.  Had rear tire installed approx 3K kms or 2K miles ago when the splines should have been greased up.  No mods on the bike other than chrome.

Any thoughts or suggestions?  Also, should I not ride the bike until this problem is fixed as it may create larger problems later?

Thanks,
Mark
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Hook#3287
Member
*****
Posts: 6447


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2016, 08:47:27 PM »

Sounds like a drive train issue, problem is, finding it.

Could be from a bad u-joint, to a bad wheel bearing, or anything in between.

Who did the tire change and DID they inspect the splines, bearings, pinion?

You either go in to inspect it all or wait till it gets worse and tells you where.
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jimmytee
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Posts: 2036


Elizabethtown,KY


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« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2016, 03:33:33 AM »

I put my money on the U-joint. Roll Eyes

Been there dine that.
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"Go sell crazy somewhere else,we're all stocked up"
Firefighter
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Posts: 1165


Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2016, 04:54:49 AM »

If it was me I would look at tires, wheels, feel for bearing trouble or something loose or fixing to fall off the bike, and if nothing seems wrong tear into the rear end and start checking there. If you keep riding you may do damage or make things worse.

But I don't like riding when I know something is wrong with the bike. 2 cents
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
salty1
Member
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Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2016, 05:23:38 AM »

I'm also guessing ujoint.  Tear it down and check things out before more damage can happen. You don't want that ujoint to "gernade".   Undecided Good luck!
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Valker
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Posts: 2998


Wahoo!!!!

Texas Panhandle


« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2016, 07:19:40 AM »

Could also be the rear spline and cup.
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
Jess from VA
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Posts: 30435


No VA


« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2016, 08:48:09 AM »

One way to check for drive line slop (short of taking it down), is to go out in the street and gently goose the throttle in 1st.  It would be preferable to break something right in front of your house than out in nowhere. 

I was able to limp a trashed Ujoint home, but the left rear wheel bearing happened out in nowhere, and I ground it to shreds for about 15 miles (at 32mph) to a dealer that mostly sold ATVs, and didn't want to fix it.  They let me fix it, then charged full price.  Bless their hearts. 

 
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Radman
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Posts: 53


Hamilton, ON. Canada


« Reply #7 on: May 25, 2016, 10:41:23 AM »

Thanks all for the suggestions and advice.

I'm going to limp it to the mechanic that did the rear wheel change and see what he did/didn't do while in there.

I did have previous rear bearing issues....and it doesn't feel like that.  The rear end felt sloppy.  This seems most connected to the drive line.  So I'll ask about splines, u-joint, bearings and pinions while I'm there.

I haven't been too happy with this mechanic lately.  One thing he does...the next thing to it seems to break.  Had that with fork seals, drive shaft fluid bolt and timing belt tensioners.  HE seems to do good work...but the guys that work for him may not be as  diligent.

Again...thanks all and I'll report back what the findings were.
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Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #8 on: May 25, 2016, 10:47:30 AM »

Radman start doing your own work most things on this bike can be done by you without too much trouble especially when you have all the help here.
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Radman
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Posts: 53


Hamilton, ON. Canada


« Reply #9 on: May 25, 2016, 03:19:20 PM »

I could give some good excuses why I don't now...other than oil changes.  I don't have a garage, lift or the tools.  But those probably are excuses.

So agreed.
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jdp
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Posts: 446


« Reply #10 on: May 25, 2016, 06:20:23 PM »

I'd put money on the drive line, u-joint, what ever it is don't think of the worst, more than likely it's a joint
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big poppa pump
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Posts: 714


San Antonio, TX


« Reply #11 on: May 25, 2016, 07:05:20 PM »

I had similar issues this past weekend coming back home from a 600 mile trip. I could feel vibration in my right floorboard and slight grinding noise intermittently. Got back home, put the bike on the stand and pulled the final drive and u-joint out. What can I say? I am a bloody lucky bastard. My UJ was just a few miles away from turning into a grenade. I sure am glad that I had ordered a spare UJ from ProCaliber just a couple of weeks back so I could carry a spare with me when I head up for Inzane. New UJ greased and installed, old boot snapped in in less than 30 seconds and ready to re-assemble the rear end tomorrow.
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1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #12 on: May 25, 2016, 07:27:05 PM »

I had similar issues this past weekend coming back home from a 600 mile trip. I could feel vibration in my right floorboard and slight grinding noise intermittently. Got back home, put the bike on the stand and pulled the final drive and u-joint out. What can I say? I am a bloody lucky bastard. My UJ was just a few miles away from turning into a grenade. I sure am glad that I had ordered a spare UJ from ProCaliber just a couple of weeks back so I could carry a spare with me when I head up for Inzane. New UJ greased and installed, old boot snapped in in less than 30 seconds and ready to re-assemble the rear end tomorrow.
You are a lucky bastard indeed ! Would have sucked about 1/2 way to WV . And the boot back on in 30 seconds. IMPRESSIVE  cooldude
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big poppa pump
Member
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Posts: 714


San Antonio, TX


« Reply #13 on: May 25, 2016, 07:49:51 PM »

I had similar issues this past weekend coming back home from a 600 mile trip. I could feel vibration in my right floorboard and slight grinding noise intermittently. Got back home, put the bike on the stand and pulled the final drive and u-joint out. What can I say? I am a bloody lucky bastard. My UJ was just a few miles away from turning into a grenade. I sure am glad that I had ordered a spare UJ from ProCaliber just a couple of weeks back so I could carry a spare with me when I head up for Inzane. New UJ greased and installed, old boot snapped in in less than 30 seconds and ready to re-assemble the rear end tomorrow.
You are a lucky bastard indeed ! Would have sucked about 1/2 way to WV . And the boot back on in 30 seconds. IMPRESSIVE  cooldude

Kept the boot immersed in hot water for a couple of hours while I was prepping the new UJ. Dried the boot and used Silicone spray around the boot edges, popped right in without a fight!
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1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

salty1
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Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #14 on: May 27, 2016, 11:29:01 AM »

Good thinking, I'll do that next I need to install the infamous boot.   cooldude
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Radman
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Posts: 53


Hamilton, ON. Canada


« Reply #15 on: June 29, 2016, 01:31:03 PM »

So those who guessed it was the u-joint were correct. Thanks for the suggestion of Procaliber as they were the best price around. Now have it back together and I'm up and running!

Thanks all for your assistance!  Smiley
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6447


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #16 on: June 29, 2016, 06:42:19 PM »

Glad to hear you got it worked out cooldude cooldude
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