Slow to return to idle.

[fiddle mike]

After my stock '97 warms up, when I snap the throttle, the engine is slow to return to idle.

The carbs were just cleaned and rebuilt (except for jets),  new intake o-rings, vacuum caps and carb boots so, no air leaks.  The bike is de-smogged, so no vacuum lines.
.

Anyone have any insights or suggestions?

[98valk]

too lean, idle mixture screws.

[Steel cowboy]

First thing I would do is disconnect both throttle cables. Manually move the throttle with your finger and see and hear it it returns by it self to idle position. You could even start it and do it. Then you'll know weather it's the cables or the linkage.

[Patrick]

I too think there is a throttle cable or linkage issue.

[Chrisj CMA]

With the engine NOT running......open the throttle and then just let it go.  It should "snap" shut. If it doesn't, it could be the switch housing.  Its possible to get the throttle sleeve bound by having the housing a tad cockeyed. To correct if that is the problem just loosen the two screws for the switch housing and move the housing around until the throttle snaps shut again.

[Ricky-D]

Pretty standard malady of carburetors that need synchronizing.

***

[Paladin528]

indication of a blocked slow jet or 2.  mine is currently doing the same thing.  new 35's on order

[fiddle mike]

indication of a blocked slow jet or 2.  mine is currently doing the same thing.  new 35's on order

My wrench suggested a re-jet, but larger than stock.  I need to confer with him on how that would affect performance.

[Paladin528]

It will burn too rich with anything larger than the original 35's.  Stick with what mother Honda made ya

[fiddle mike]

It will burn too rich with anything larger than the original 35's.  Stick with what mother Honda made ya

Thanks for the tip.  The mechanic told me he had to turn the mixture screw way out.   I only know the very basics of carburation.

[98valk]

It will burn too rich with anything larger than the original 35's.  Stick with what mother Honda made ya

Thanks for the tip.  The mechanic told me he had to turn the mixture screw way out.   I only know the very basics of carburation.

now u can know just about everything.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html    use low rpm

[fiddle mike]

now u can know just about everything.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html    use low rpm
[/quote]

Thanks!  Knowledge is power.   

[salty1]

The mixture screws? Are you referring to the pilots? The pilots should be between 1 3/4 to  2 1/4 turns out and even across all the carbs. Ricky- made the suggestion  of carb synchronization which would be important after overhauling your carbs. Cable routing is a possibility.

[Steve K (IA)]

Do you have a stock petcock?  Mine acted like that and come to find out the diaphragm was torn giving me a vacuum leak.

You can check by removing the vac line off #6 that would run to the petcock and see if it will hold vacuum.

[longrider]

These carbs work well if the m/c is not left to sit for a length of time.  I agree with the others.  Don't fight with it.  Replace the slow speed jets with stock 35's.  set the pilots to 2 1/4 and synchronize the carbs.  Check the petcock for vacuum leak.  Your problems should be gone

warren

[fiddle mike]

The mixture screws? Are you referring to the pilots? The pilots should be between 1 3/4 to  2 1/4 turns out and even across all the carbs. Ricky- made the suggestion  of carb synchronization which would be important after overhauling your carbs. Cable routing is a possibility.

Yes, the pilots.  They are turn out way past 2 1/2.
The guy's  through, so I'm assuming he synched the carbs.
The slow return happened over time, and the throttle snaps back, so I'm doubtful the cable routing is at fault.

[fiddle mike]

I appreciate all of your inputs.  Thanks.

[fiddle mike]

These carbs work well if the m/c is not left to sit for a length of time.  I agree with the others.  Don't fight with it.  Replace the slow speed jets with stock 35's.  set the pilots to 2 1/4 and synchronize the carbs.  Check the petcock for vacuum leak.  Your problems should be gone

warren

The hasn't sat, but it has over 200K without the carbs having been gone through.
When I get up with the mechanic I'll pass along the info.
Thanks.

[BonS]

. . . but it has over 200K without the carbs having been gone through . . .

If you have he carbs rebuilt don't forget to replace the float needles. They're inexpensive and definitely worn out at this age and are a major contributor to hydro lock. All six are just over $20 on Amazon. The floats on the Valk carbs are not adjustable so the only calibration for fuel float height is the proper operation of the float needle. And when the spring inside the float needle gets weak the float tops out on the carburetor body and can't stop the fuel flow.

35's are best on a bike that's ridden often but they're quick to clog when the bike is left sitting. 38's are on the rich side but are much more resistant to clogging.

[medulla762]

Had similar symptoms. My issue was the starboard(that will be the right side for all the land lubbers...lol) side enrichment rail was not properly closing. Cleaned and polished the rail and it worked properly.