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my12by60
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« on: June 11, 2016, 05:13:45 PM » |
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Bike won't start. Clicking sound heard from under right side panel. Battery is only a few years old and is on a maintainer. Battery tests as strong with multi-meter. I checked and cleaned all of the connections under right side panel. No signs of any meaningful corrosion or build-up, but I cleaned everything anyway. The red wire harness that snaps into the solenoid relay released with some elbow grease. No signs of any corrosion, melting or other problems. I also checked all of the fuses and none are blown. Put everything back in its place and tried to start again with everything cleaned and tightened and the panel still off. Still no start and the clicking sound is definitely coming from the solenoid relay. I was going to order this and do the replacement unless somebody thinks the problem may be something else. https://www.amazon.com/Caltric-Starter-Solenoid-Valkyrie-1997-2003/dp/B007473OWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465690799&sr=8-1&keywords=caltric+solenoid+valkyrie |
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2016, 05:51:41 PM » |
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You could rule out starter problems by jumping the relay first. If it still doesn't start, the relay is most likely good. Clicking sound is good.
Electrical issues will drive you crazy.
Could be many things and you just got to go thru them, one at a time, and rule stuff out.
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my12by60
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« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2016, 05:57:30 PM » |
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How do I "jump the relay"?
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2016, 05:58:45 PM » |
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Any chance you could be hydro-locked? That's the symptoms I had from mine. I was lucky, the starter must have been in a position so it didn't break gear teeth, but couldn't turn the motor.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #4 on: June 11, 2016, 06:01:01 PM » |
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How do I "jump the relay"?
Make a metallic connection between the two poles of the relay. Screwdriver, pliers, jump wire. |
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my12by60
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« Reply #5 on: June 11, 2016, 06:03:36 PM » |
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Beforre I try to jump the relay as you described, how do I check for hydro-lock condition?
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #6 on: June 11, 2016, 06:09:45 PM » |
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The easiest way is to pull ALL the plugs. Check for very wet plug tips. If you hit the start button and she turns, gas may jump out the cylinders at a surprising height, so make sure that will be okay to your surroundings. Sounds like over kill, but it's a good thing to check, and relatively easy.
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #7 on: June 11, 2016, 07:03:53 PM » |
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Or roll the bike and have it in a high gear, then release the clutch. If it turns over, you are OK. If it comes to a screeching stop, then the motor is locked and not turning over. Then remove the plugs.
I doubt the average person can test their battery, you need to put a meter in series to measure the load.
I would jump the bike with a known good battery from your daily driver, NOT RUNNING. If it works, then you have a battery issue. The battery on a tender/charger doesn't mean a thing with regards to it's fitness.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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my12by60
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« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2016, 02:23:13 PM » |
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I jump started the bike from my car battery and it started right up. I thought I knew a bit about batteries after RVing for years with four golf cart batteries as our power bank. I understand the difference between current state of charge and load bearing capacity. I checked my records and the battery that I have right now (YUASA YTX14BS) is coming up on six years old, which is older than I thought. I searched reviews on Amazon for this battery and six years seems to be good longevity, although the original YUASA that came with the bike lasted a bit longer. So it appears that the battery can hold a charge and present itself as fully charged on a multi-meter, but when asked to deliver a load the battery is not up to the task.
Does the success of the jump start confirm that the battery is the problem and eliminate all other possibilities?
If yes, I will order another YUASA unless some other battery is now recommended as a better value for our Valkyries. I see Amazon has the YTX14BS for $70 with prime shipping.
Thanks for advising on the jump start test and saving me from chasing down the rabbit hole of the starter relay solenoid.
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #9 on: June 12, 2016, 02:51:01 PM » |
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I jump started the bike from my car battery and it started right up. I thought I knew a bit about batteries after RVing for years with four golf cart batteries as our power bank. I understand the difference between current state of charge and load bearing capacity. I checked my records and the battery that I have right now (YUASA YTX14BS) is coming up on six years old, which is older than I thought. I searched reviews on Amazon for this battery and six years seems to be good longevity, although the original YUASA that came with the bike lasted a bit longer. So it appears that the battery can hold a charge and present itself as fully charged on a multi-meter, but when asked to deliver a load the battery is not up to the task.
Does the success of the jump start confirm that the battery is the problem and eliminate all other possibilities?
If yes, I will order another YUASA unless some other battery is now recommended as a better value for our Valkyries. I see Amazon has the YTX14BS for $70 with prime shipping.
Thanks for advising on the jump start test and saving me from chasing down the rabbit hole of the starter relay solenoid.
It makes the battery the very likely culprit. If you want to be sure, take it to an auto parts store and have them load test it. |
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing   |
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my12by60
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« Reply #10 on: June 12, 2016, 03:16:01 PM » |
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We have an O'Reilly nearby that does load testing. I think I will take the time to check out the battery before I replace it.
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my12by60
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« Reply #11 on: June 12, 2016, 03:22:57 PM » |
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Called O'Reilly and their load tester only works on batteries with as little as 400 cold cranking amps. The YUASA battery has 200 CCA, so no local load test is available. I think I will just bite the bullet and order a new battery for $70.
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #12 on: June 12, 2016, 03:23:05 PM » |
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+1 on the above.
But at 6 years, does it owe you anything?
I would test the output from the alternator now, insure that you have full power there. If it is not, maybe that is why the battery is failing now, not being properly charged while in use.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS |
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my12by60
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« Reply #13 on: June 12, 2016, 06:38:24 PM » |
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To test the alternator, do I just put the multi-meter leads on the battery terminals with the bike idling?
What is a reading that shows the alternator is working acceptably well?
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #14 on: June 12, 2016, 07:07:37 PM » |
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Honda manual states 15.5 V @ 5,000 rpm with high beam on and a fully charged battery.
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my12by60
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« Reply #15 on: June 12, 2016, 08:26:16 PM » |
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5000 rpm. I guess it takes three hands. I will get my son to hold the throttle while I hold the leads from the multi-meter.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #16 on: June 13, 2016, 03:38:44 AM » |
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5000 rpm. I guess it takes three hands. I will get my son to hold the throttle while I hold the leads from the multi-meter.
You could use small electrical clamps to hold the ends of the meter wire on the battery terminals, or just push them into place, they should stay enough to get a reading. |
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