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Author Topic: Timing belt on a valkyrie  (Read 1553 times)
rjb3515
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Posts: 10


Des Moines ,Iowa


« on: June 19, 2016, 12:55:46 PM »

Hey it's RJ's kid here just wondering about these timing belts on these Valkyries I don't think Dad ever changed his on the MGM. Should I replace it now that it has been turned into a trike with the extra weight Factor I'm worried the belt might break, Then the valves would get bent. Does anybody have any input on this for me thanks Rex.
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Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364


'98 Tourer

Western Washington


WWW
« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2016, 01:08:41 PM »

Well it's more about miles and years than it is about weight. It's a good idea to change them I would say. it's not expensive and not a difficult thing to do, but you're going to want to have a manual in front of you.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
John Schmidt
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Posts: 15222


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2016, 01:12:19 PM »

I think it might be a good idea, especially if you can't determine whether they have ever been replaced. As I recall, he had well over 200k miles on that bike so my guess is they had been done, but you just have no way of knowing. Judging by past conversation, he was good with general maintenance but as I said....you don't know for sure. It's a fairly easy job, just follow the shop manual, it takes two belts but don't get them at Honda. Just pick up a set of Gates at NAPA for less than half the price....same belt. I'll see if I can find the link for a Gates p/n. As far as extra strain on them, that's not the case. They just turn the cams & the motor does all the extra work.

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2016, 01:40:45 PM »

I think it might be a good idea, especially if you can't determine whether they have ever been replaced. As I recall, he had well over 200k miles on that bike so my guess is they had been done, but you just have no way of knowing. Judging by past conversation, he was good with general maintenance but as I said....you don't know for sure.

Being RJ's old bike, I think you could also do a search on the site to find when he last posted about them.

As usual, the manual says Inspect at 100K miles. To go to all the effort (less than on a GW) of the inspection, for around $50, you can buy a pair of belts, and then forget about it for another 10 yrs/100K.

I bought my GW 88' with 61K miles on it 3 years ago, and just changed them out on the age factor, than anything else.

I also believe the cheapest price could be had from Amazon.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2016, 11:30:53 AM »

I'm thinking that RJ would have replaced those belts at some time considering the miles he put on that monster.
But, regardless, its not a hard job to do. Replacements are Gates 275 and it takes 2.
I recommend removing the sparklers and turning the engine over by hand a couple times to insure the timing marks are aligned before starting. I also set them a bit looser [ 3/8"] then Honda says [ 1/4"].
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15222


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2016, 06:49:23 PM »

Re. setting the tensioners, just let the springs do it for you. If you get a whine from down front after replacing the belts, it means you've set the tensioners too tight.
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rjb3515
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Posts: 10


Des Moines ,Iowa


« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2016, 08:11:27 AM »

Just wanted to thank everybody for helping me with the timing belt issues on the MGM. I checked the belts they had obviously been replaced at some time. They looked like they had been in there for a while. I got both belts from O'Reilly Auto Parts for about $25 each. (Gates)They were super easy to put in and adjust. Makes me feel a lot better knowing they're not going to strip or bust especially with the extra weight this trike added to this bike.
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Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364


'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2016, 04:13:15 PM »

it's good that you replaced the belts without any problem. But the fact is no matter how much extra weight the motor has to pull it takes no more torque to turn the camshafts.  the extra torque requirement would be at the crankshaft not the cams.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2016, 04:23:50 PM »

Before changing line everything up and take photos as reference points for memory . After replacement turn engine over several turns with a socket and rachet on the center pulley to insure everything is happy.
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N0tac0p
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Posts: 413



« Reply #9 on: July 22, 2016, 05:08:41 AM »

I did the socket thing on the engine on my 76 wing to ensure everything was OK.  unfortunately, the compression of the engine spun it and I heard a "tink"......yup bent valve, had to take the top off, replace , grind the seat......major PITA

note to self, take out he plugs to avoid compressive engine stroke
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14775


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #10 on: July 22, 2016, 06:03:00 AM »

I did the socket thing on the engine on my 76 wing to ensure everything was OK.  unfortunately, the compression of the engine spun it and I heard a "tink"......yup bent valve, had to take the top off, replace , grind the seat......major PITA

note to self, take out he plugs to avoid compressive engine stroke

That's why whether you think it is needed or not, I remove all the sparkplugs fist thing, then start rotating the crankshaft.  I never tried it before, but next time I'm going to see if I can get all the marks lined up and have it in gear at the same time.
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DK
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Posts: 616


Little Rock


« Reply #11 on: July 22, 2016, 04:06:13 PM »

I did the socket thing on the engine on my 76 wing to ensure everything was OK.  unfortunately, the compression of the engine spun it and I heard a "tink"......yup bent valve, had to take the top off, replace , grind the seat......major PITA

note to self, take out he plugs to avoid compressive engine stroke

That's why whether you think it is needed or not, I remove all the sparkplugs fist thing, then start rotating the crankshaft.  I never tried it before, but next time I'm going to see if I can get all the marks lined up and have it in gear at the same time.

Locking the engine in gear will not help.

The cams become free to spin independently of the crankshaft when the belts are removed and they will spin almost of their own volition due to the valve spring pressure against over-center cam lobes.
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14775


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #12 on: July 22, 2016, 06:19:42 PM »

I did the socket thing on the engine on my 76 wing to ensure everything was OK.  unfortunately, the compression of the engine spun it and I heard a "tink"......yup bent valve, had to take the top off, replace , grind the seat......major PITA

note to self, take out he plugs to avoid compressive engine stroke

That's why whether you think it is needed or not, I remove all the sparkplugs fist thing, then start rotating the crankshaft.  I never tried it before, but next time I'm going to see if I can get all the marks lined up and have it in gear at the same time.

Locking the engine in gear will not help.

The cams become free to spin independently of the crankshaft when the belts are removed and they will spin almost of their own volition due to the valve spring pressure against over-center cam lobes.

That's a very good point, still removing the spark plugs
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N0tac0p
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Posts: 413



« Reply #13 on: July 25, 2016, 12:00:05 PM »

so are the marks the marks regardless of number of time anything may spin around?  I thought every other alignment was the same, ie once around goes fro compression to exhaust, the next mark alignment is the same as the first?

I mena how do you really not screw it up so each sides cam is right to each side and each other? especially if there is rotation
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