fast blinking left turn signal

[Duffy]

  Hi guys, I hope everyone is well. Did you make it to Inzane in WV? I didn't make it this year, but had a great time in Spearfish last year.

Anyway, this is the tech board, right? I searched the subject of the fast blinking turn signal and didn't really find a solution for my 03 standard. One suggestion was this:


If the bulbs are installed 180 degrees off, the signals will work, but flash very fast. Don't ask me how I know...

I was hoping that would work for me but it didn't. If you have another solution, fire away...

[Bighead]

Both front and back working? If so check to make sure they are the correct bulbs.

[Duffy]

A little more background info:

My lights where working fine since I removed a Kuryakyn run turn brake module behind the side cover. I was just changing to some new LEDs I got to replace the turns 1156 and tail/brake light 1157. The new LEDs are much brighter (duh!) but I now have this fast blinking issue on the left rear turn signal.

[Duffy]

Both left turns, front and back blink fast, right front and rear blink at expected speed.

[Duffy]

More info:

I put the old bulbs back in and the fast blinking is gone...

But a bad bulb doesn't seem to be the issue because I switched the new bulbs right to left and it was still just the left turn that blinks fast.

[gordonv]

You said you added LED, they require a heavier load to slow them down.

Until you mentioned the LED, I was thinking like a car, you had a burnt out buld.

[Duffy]

You said you added LED, they require a heavier load to slow them down.

Until you mentioned the LED, I was thinking like a car, you had a burnt out buld.

if that is the issue, what would explain that the right turn LED works at the proper speed?

[Duffy]

It is late here, I'll check back tomorrow with an update.

Thanks for any ideas/solutions.

[Jess from VA]

LEDs in signals cause trouble.  They generally do need a load equalizer to function correctly (not fast), but that just makes the power draw the same as regular bulbs (so you lose the reduced draw benefit of LEDs), PLUS creates heat where you install the equalizers (enough heat to melt things, so you don't want them laying against other parts of the wiring harness). The better approach is to replace the OE flasher unit with something called a HD electronic flasher (or now maybe an LED signal stabilizer).  For my project, I could not find one at any auto parts store, but had to go to a big Semi truck/trailer store (all those semis are chock full of leds).

Now for my project, I could never get multiple anomalies to stop; I got different signal flashing results with ignition on but not running, running at idle, and running down the road under a load.  I finally had to take the bike to a pro, and he could not do what I wanted the lights to do (two circuit LEDs), but stopped the rapid flash. Even with the HD electronic flasher, I had a ground continuity issue I could never figure out (on a Yamaha with common ground issues, not the Valk).  I decided I would never ever use LEDs in a signal again.  Anywhere else fine.

After all this screwing around, I finally decided that the fast flashing, while looking weird and broadcasting that the installer may be a dim bulb, actually drew more attention than the regular slow flashing (lost in a sea of slow flashing cages), and drawing attention is what custom/aftermarket lighting is all about anyway, isn't it?  Wouldn't fast flashing be safer turning across traffic, or letting those behind you know you are slowing to turn right?  It's not like a fast flashing turn signal is against the law, or DOT violation, or would fail you in an annual safety inspection (course, I can't speak for all states).  Course, it would be nice if your fast flashing was on both sides, not just one.

That's all I got Duffy.  Have fun.

PS, as far as I know, 1156-7 bulbs (or leds with the same bases) will only go in one way.

Load equalizers/electronic stabilizers (for metrics):  http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm

 

[PharmBoy]

On standard and tourer when replacing the turn signals with LED's, replace the OEM flasher with an EP34 flasher as follows.

M/C leads     to    flasher module
Gray            to       "L" (Lamp)
Green          to       "E" (Negative)
Black           to       "B" (Positive)

Worked for me and available at most any auto supply for around $7.00...Jim

[indybobm]

As for the reason the right side works with the leds, the right side connections might have more resistance in the connections putting a bigger load on the right side. I would suggest that you find and clean all turn signal connections including the turn signal switch itself.

[Duffy]

Hi Jess and others, I appreciate all the input.

I guess for now I will put the non-LEDs back in for tomorrow's trip and deal with load equalizing later.

Out of time for now.

thanks again, 

[John Schmidt]

Most of the time when you go to LED's you have to install a diode kit in the headlight bucket. Goes in the circuit that feeds the turn signal light that you see on the headlight. It's about $7 from Kuryakyn and elsewhere and an easy install. It isolates the indicator light circuit, takes longer to open and pull the headlight out of the way than to do the install. Cut a couple wires and solder the kit in, connect a ground wire and put it all back together. That, along with the flasher p/n mentioned should put you back in good order.

[Marinakorp]

When was the last time the blinker fluid was changed?

[Patrick]

Its pretty hard to install an 1156 or 1157 bulb backwards, so, anything could be wrong.

But, as the fellas said, LEDs  generally require more load for a thermal flasher to fire correctly.

An electronic flasher is probably going to be needed. I slowed my flash rate by installing a flasher recommended by Bagger.

http://www.customled.com/products/elfr-1-electronic-led-flasher-relay


It does bother me that each side flashes at a different rate, but, thats generally a sign of load, Bad ground, bad connection, etc.