Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 06, 2025, 04:48:09 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
VRCC Calendar Ad
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Tork values  (Read 815 times)
Thespian
Member
*****
Posts: 552


Bonny lake Washington


« on: June 23, 2016, 07:44:44 PM »

Did my search and came up empty. I'm looking for the tork values for front brake rotors. I know some say it's not necessary but with bolts that are suggested to be replaced when removed, I would like to make sure I don't over do it. Thanks in advance to the knowledge pool! cooldude 
Logged

Smooth is where it's at. (o_0)
MaverickValk
Member
*****
Posts: 26


« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2016, 07:55:28 PM »

Try the search again using this spelling - torque. cooldude
Logged
Thespian
Member
*****
Posts: 552


Bonny lake Washington


« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2016, 08:01:58 PM »

 I did but found more post's using the word tork than torque. Roll Eyes
Logged

Smooth is where it's at. (o_0)
gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #3 on: June 23, 2016, 09:27:52 PM »

The Service Manual should have what you are looking for.

http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html
Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

big poppa pump
Member
*****
Posts: 714


San Antonio, TX


« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2016, 12:31:48 AM »

14 FT/LBS
Logged

VRCC#35870
VRCCDS#0266
1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

Hook#3287
Member
*****
Posts: 6446


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2016, 04:59:17 AM »

Quote
I would like to make sure I don't over do it.

You want to be careful with these, they snap easily. Shocked Angry
Logged
John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15223


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2016, 08:18:59 AM »

I guess Honda wants to cover their collective butts by calling for these bolts to be replaced. I've had mine off numerous times over the years....new rubber, new pads, etc., and still on the original bolts. And I have yet to use a torque wrench on them. Oh well, living dangerously as a way of life I guess.  Cheesy
Logged

Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14775


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #7 on: June 24, 2016, 10:07:24 AM »

I guess Honda wants to cover their collective butts by calling for these bolts to be replaced. I've had mine off numerous times over the years....new rubber, new pads, etc., and still on the original bolts. And I have yet to use a torque wrench on them. Oh well, living dangerously as a way of life I guess.  Cheesy

Exactly John.  I have R/R'd a few rotors.  Most without a torque wrench.  The last time (rear rotor) I think there is a little more torque on them than the fronts. I figured I would break down and do it by the book, got out the trusty torque wrench and looked up the spec in the book then some locktite on the threads and start tightening.  Half of them felt right going to the correct torque and half I stopped a little early because it just felt tight.

Forcing a fastener to the "torque setting" is the only time I have broken a bolt on a motorcycle.

Be careful out there
Logged
Thespian
Member
*****
Posts: 552


Bonny lake Washington


« Reply #8 on: June 24, 2016, 07:53:27 PM »

Thanks guys I think I will go just a bit light. With the locktite They should stay put. This is my third time I have used them, just snugged them up before. Thanks for the manual link Gordonv.
Logged

Smooth is where it's at. (o_0)
Jess from VA
Member
*****
Posts: 30435


No VA


« Reply #9 on: June 24, 2016, 08:10:03 PM »

I think the only reason they recommend new OE bolts is because they come pre-dipped in some dried thread locker stuff.

If they are in good condition, and you clean them up and add a bit of the right locktite, you don't need new ones. (blue, not red, I think)

Once you add loctite (oil/grease/antiseize/snot) to a bolt, you will not get an accurate torque reading anyway.  If it's completely dry (like new OE bolts), it's probably closer to accurate.
Logged
RonW
Member
*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2016, 09:00:12 PM »

Imho, it's becuz a lot of torque wrenches are off plus the internal threads aren't cleaned out with a thread chaser.
Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Thespian
Member
*****
Posts: 552


Bonny lake Washington


« Reply #11 on: June 25, 2016, 09:45:05 AM »

 The rotors will be going on a brand new wheel. original was knocked out of true when my bike was hit in the parking lot at work. Not sure I believe the tech, I'v been putting around on the bike while waiting for the new wheel and I get no vibration at all. Insurance is paying for it so to be safe I'm replacing it.

Sadly this is the second one partzilla has sent me. The first was so poorly packaged the the hub that receives the speedo was so smashed it had a lip all the way around. I was sick when I saw it as these parts will be unavailable "new" at some point.   
Logged

Smooth is where it's at. (o_0)
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: