Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 05, 2025, 07:53:44 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Alt- large oring question  (Read 1116 times)
NDFRC
Member
*****
Posts: 92


Orange Park FL


« on: June 29, 2016, 07:03:35 AM »

Hello all, I have to replace the large oring on the alt, I think I read somewhere that you can do this without taking the alt completely out, if this is the case.. anyone familiar with this?

thanks!
Logged
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2016, 07:28:40 AM »

I think you should be able without too much problem. You will just have to fish them over the alt. drive hub.
Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14775


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2016, 08:05:16 AM »

I think you should be able without too much problem. You will just have to fish them over the alt. drive hub.

meathead, I think you have it backwards.  If you don't want to remove the alternator entirely you have to back it out until the O-ring is exposed and then disconnect all the wiring and stretch the O-ring over the main body of the alternator to get it in place.  If you have the alternator out far enough to slip the O-ring over the front, its essentially out already, might as well take it out and clean up everything behind it and get a look at the rubber drive bushings
« Last Edit: June 29, 2016, 08:07:26 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2016, 10:43:31 AM »

I figured once it was pulled straight back to expose the o-ring you would have enough room to slip it over the drive flange. I would worry about nicking it over the entire alt.
Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14775


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2016, 12:08:26 PM »

Quote from: meathead OOlink=topic=88200.msg867174#msg867174 date=1467222211
I figured once it was pulled straight back to expose the o-ring you would have enough room to slip it over the drive flange. I would worry about nicking it over just takethe entire alt.

Me too, that's why I would just remove the alternator,. If you can get the O-ring on the normal way the alternator is essentially off so why not take it to the workbench and do a proper job.
Logged
Steel cowboy
Member
*****
Posts: 1284


Moving ahead so life won’t pass me by.

Spring Hill, Fl.


« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2016, 07:13:38 PM »

Ok now that we know or thing we know how to change the o ring on the alternator. What make you think it's leaking?
Is there an oil stain you are seeing on the ground. It could be the shift shaft seal. What are the symptoms?
Logged

2001 black interstate
2003 Jupiter Orange wing
Hook#3287
Member
*****
Posts: 6446


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2016, 07:27:24 PM »

I had to replace a alt o-ring over ten years ago cause it started leaking down the side.

That was a while ago, but I think I did what Rob said and pulled the alt back just enough to slip the ring over the front gear.

But what Chrisj CMA suggests is a good idea, might as well do more cleaning and inspection.
Logged
NDFRC
Member
*****
Posts: 92


Orange Park FL


« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2016, 07:59:38 AM »

I know its the alt oring only because It started right after I swapped out the alt,(I did trace the oil back to the bottom of the alt/block joint to make sure), and since it was a major PITA to not only remove the alt, but to install it as well, trying to line up the rubber dampers with the alt pulley splines.. there's got to be a better way to do that, I am not surprised that I screwed up the oring,  I wish I knew of a better way to easily mate the splines with the dampers.. its because of this I am afraid to completely take out the alt, that's why I am wondering if I can just back it out the alt just enuf to get to the oring but keep the dampers engaged with the pulley splines, disconnect the alt wires and then carefully stretch the oring over the alt and each mounting tab, from the back to the front, seat the oring and tighten everything back up.. I wont even tell you that I did the original alt replacement, the whole ordeal that created this problem to begin with, all because I didn't check all the alt circuit connections first!! there was nothing wrong with the alt, it was a simple connection issue at the main breaker that I fixed in 2 mins, no parts, no cost, except for the downtime, aggravation, cost of the alt replacement and now my screwing up that replacement!!
I am so aggravated with myself over this whole alt thing.
« Last Edit: June 30, 2016, 08:02:05 AM by NDFRC » Logged
Steel cowboy
Member
*****
Posts: 1284


Moving ahead so life won’t pass me by.

Spring Hill, Fl.


« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2016, 05:35:32 PM »

When I changed out my alternator I sliced the o ring right at the bottom of the alternator too. I packed the new o ring with Vaseline around it and in the housing too. As I installed it I gave it a slight twist too. I feel your frustration my alt. Came out fairly easy and went back in easy too, but I found the oil leak after the chrome was all back on.  Angry

URL=http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/2001valkyrie/media/3940a438-b0b7-443c-9057-16e654d32fab_zpsdzrnxdvz.jpg.html][/URL]
Logged

2001 black interstate
2003 Jupiter Orange wing
NDFRC
Member
*****
Posts: 92


Orange Park FL


« Reply #9 on: July 07, 2016, 05:23:52 AM »

Well now, I am back on the road again and so glad! For the record, you can replace the alt o-ring without taking the alt completely out and it was much easier. It stretches and works over the alt body and mounting flanges just fine.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: